Engine: Im building a MONSTER.

[crazylark]

So my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?

[Flashback]

So my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?

Ask ol Grandad. He ain't playin possum on ya is he?

[Commander Eddie]

If my memory serves me, your lookin' at about .030 over on the bore. I don't think you need to shave the heads.
There are some real motor heads on here who will surely correct me if I'm wrong.

[LarkR2Clone]

Something like .096 over on a 289 to get 304
James III

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Well, to be precise it is 3/32" or .09375" over. Then...you have to source pistons!

[DieselJim]

I got one bored to 3 3/4. User a .020 305 GM piston. With the 289 crank makes 320 ci.

[PackardV8]

Don't those leave the piston pretty far down in the hole? Something like .040" lower?

Then, the piston pin end of the rod has to be bored to fit. It works, but not a CASO bolt in.

jack

[Jessie J.]

So my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?

Not to rain on your parade, but you should be forewarned. The factory only used 'specially selected' block castings for the 304, as .09375" over requires a well centered bore to avoid over-thinning the cylinder walls.
Its a real crap shoot to take just any old available block and attempting such a large overbore. + combining that with an increased C/R

Other than 'bragging rights', selecting the right cam, compression, and carburation, your care in assembly, your ability as a tuner, and skills as a driver will have a far far greater impact than gaining 15 additional cubic inches ever will.
There are those who can wring 12 sec. 1/4 mile times out of a 259, while others will strain to run 14 flat with a $$$$ 304.

On principal, I'd never bore an engine beyond the bare minimum needed to restore cylinder concentricity and assure good ring sealing. One of the greatest assets of the Studebaker block is its strength and consequent cylinder rigidity, and unnecessary overboring, and thinning the cylinder walls sacrifices that.

A shot of NOS will give you one heck of a bang for your buck, The Stude has the strength to take it, plus you can still have an engine that is practical for everyday use.