So my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Im building a MONSTER.
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by crazylark View PostSo my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?
-
Originally posted by crazylark View PostSo my grandad has a stripped down 63'lark with no motor. I have a 259 block and 289 crank. So my question: How much would it have to be board out to be a 304 and how much would my heads have to be shaved?
Its a real crap shoot to take just any old available block and attempting such a large overbore. + combining that with an increased C/R
Other than 'bragging rights', selecting the right cam, compression, and carburation, your care in assembly, your ability as a tuner, and skills as a driver will have a far far greater impact than gaining 15 additional cubic inches ever will.
There are those who can wring 12 sec. 1/4 mile times out of a 259, while others will strain to run 14 flat with a $$$$ 304.
On principal, I'd never bore an engine beyond the bare minimum needed to restore cylinder concentricity and assure good ring sealing. One of the greatest assets of the Studebaker block is its strength and consequent cylinder rigidity, and unnecessary overboring, and thinning the cylinder walls sacrifices that.
A shot of NOS will give you one heck of a bang for your buck, The Stude has the strength to take it, plus you can still have an engine that is practical for everyday use.Last edited by Jessie J.; 03-23-2014, 07:03 AM.
Comment
Comment