Fuel System: Supplemental electric fuel pump for R2 Hawk

[R2GTHAWK]

I have a 1963 R2 GT Hawk that I have had vapor lock several times in hot summer driving. I would like to
add an electric fuel pump with a toggle switch that I can use to prime and to get me through another vapor
lock issue. What kind of electric pump should I use and where should I install it? A photo of an installed
pump would be very helpful. I tried the search function, but I could not find anything for an R2 application.
All suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated!!
Terry Stinehelfer
Bucyrus, OH

[Warren Webb]

I cant see why the R-2 would make any difference since they already have the return line there. Just place the pump out back as close to the tank as possible & feed the regular pump on the engine. What I have done for the vapor lock is insulate the line from the pump to the filter & then the carb. Easy & CASO effective.

[Mike Van Veghten]

On one hand, I would "never" run an electric pump...thru a mechanical pump. But that's just me not wanting the possibility of fuel diluting my crankcase oil...! And secondly...causing the possibility of a fire where there's not supposed to be one.

On the other hand, I just receintly install this pump and so far have been very happy with it. When priming the system, you have to "listen" for it to make sure its running. very quiet.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?79199-An-electron-powered-fuel-pump

Mike

[53commander]

I would use a push button switch instead of a toggle so there is no chance of the pump accidentally staying on.

[ken-renda]

Had same issue on R2 Avanti; Here is picture of electric pump. Direction said to mount at 45 degrees as close to tank as possible but it was installed on frame just in back of front wheel. This was installed on push button switch. In about 2 seconds the pump sound indicates carb is primed. Car starts in a second or 2, whereas starter ground on and on. Should have done this long ago. Ken, Deltaville, Va

[acolds]

I installed mine on my clipper to aid in hot starting also when car sits for extended periods. Mounted in front of rear wheel on chassis where stock fuel line crossed from inside frame to outside . Two reasons for location was ease to get at pump and filter without need to jack up car. Also replaced fuel line with two pieces from NAPA one from tank to approximate location of pump other piece from factory union under floor near master cylinder to desired location of pump cut off ends of each piece to get desired length. Mounted pump on rubber to avoid noise . I used toggle switch spring load in one direction and on in other position if I ever needed to get home with bad mechanical pump. Carry piece of hose to bypass factory pump if it fails and want to ensure no fuel gets into crankcase.. Saves a lot of cranking time to star car

[StudeRich]

On an R2 Hawk with an original cool fuel return line and a High output Carter "Super Pump", there should be no reason to add a electric pump if the cooling system is up to par and the fuel system is factory correct including the S/C to Fuel Pump pressure equalizing "reference" line.

[swvalcon]

I dont know as what I would use all that rubber hose and hose clamps on and electric pump. Better to use hard line or at the very least braded hose with soild fittings. Just less chance of a hose leaking and asking for a fire.

[Xcalibur]

I drove an R2 SuperHawk for years without a problem. Something is WRONG with your car (or fuel?). Find and fix the issue and you won't need a band-aid that may or may not fix it.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Xcalibur -

In this day of gasoline with alcohol in it...add to that, a car that doesn't get driven everyday...the fuel mixture will evaporate out of the fuel bowl faster thAn it did just a few years ago. Continued cranking on the starter to fill the bowl isn't good for the starter or camshaft/lifters.

A full time electric pump isn't a bad idea today because of this ever increasing problem.

A note to some buying electric pumps -
Be carefull in you electric pump choise. If you are driving your car short miles to shows and back it's not a big deal. But buying pumps with 1/8" NPT fittings...is too small to properly keep the fuel bowl filled. These fittings are just too small for much freeway driving.
Pressure does not equal volume.

Mike

[Chucks Stude]

Mike,I understand what you are saying about fuel getting into your oil, but there is a way around that. I took an old fuel pump, took everything out of it, put a piece of aluminum between the timing cover and the fuel pump, with a gasket on either side of the aluminum. Looks stock, but it is an electrical fuel pump, pumping thru the old pump. Has been doing well for 3 years.

[rodnutrandy]

Be careful if you use rubber hose , it needs to be for fuel injection to hold up . Also put a regulator if running a edelbrock carb. I was surprised on Legendary Motors show today that he had a original 64 Thunderbolt 427 hi riser that wouldn't start. He figured out the mechanical fuel pump was bad and since he had a electric pump in back, he by passed the mechanical pump. Started it up and drove away . If it was mine. I would have pulled the dip stick and made sure crank case was not full of fuel .

[R2GTHAWK]

Thank you very much to all who took the time to answer my questions. Your advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
Terry Stinehelfer
Bucyrus, OH

[Phatfenders]

Mike,I understand what you are saying about fuel getting into your oil, but there is a way around that. I took an old fuel pump, took everything out of it, put a piece of aluminum between the timing cover and the fuel pump, with a gasket on either side of the aluminum. Looks stock, but it is an electrical fuel pump, pumping thru the old pump. Has been doing well for 3 years.

Thats a great Idea!!!