New cap, rotor, vac. adv., Mr. Gasket advance curve kit, Accel performance module and a Performance Distributors 50,000 volt coil. Top half of an Olds distributor and the bottom half of a Stude distributor.
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Completed Buttercup's HEI Distributor
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Completed Buttercup's HEI Distributor
Last edited by Jerry Forrester; 11-13-2017, 04:02 PM.Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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Yes, I am sure it will clear the firewall. I have a BDH.
Originally posted by PackardV8 View PostVery nice work. Have you confirmed all that big, tall cap stuff will clear the firewall for installation, removal and drag strip launches?
jack vinesJerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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Thanks, I copied it from Sheba and The Cart Hauler.
Originally posted by Studedude View PostNice set-up, great choice of engine color!Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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Jerry: what was involved in building your Stude HEI? As in machine work, etc.?--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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See this thread.
Originally posted by 1962larksedan View PostJerry: what was involved in building your Stude HEI? As in machine work, etc.?Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View PostSee this thread.
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...le-distributor--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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Some time ago I asked the question as to why you left the transmission in place when you pulled the engine and you replied there was no reason to remove it, I am more curious than ever as to wheather the transmission is still in place or has it been removed? Is the new installation going to be standard or auto? David British Columbia
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I took no exact measurements when cutting the housings.
I cut the Stude housing about an 1-1/4" above the flange that the dist. clamp clamps on and machined it down just enough to clean up the rough cast iron housing.
I turned the Olds dist. housing down just enough to clean up the rough aluminum casting and cut it about an inch below the square boss on the distributor.
I then made a coupler using 1-1/2" cold rolled steel shaft 2 inches long. I bored the coupler all the way through to the size of the Olds dist. housing, plus .0005". I then bored the coupler half way through to the size of the Stude Dist. plus .0005". I drilled and tapped holes for 3/16" set screws at 90 degrees on the Olds end of the coupler, Machined a 45 degree taper on the Stude end of the coupler and brazed it onto the Stude dist. part.
I put the housings together and cut the Olds dist shaft to the approximate center of the coupler.
With the Olds shaft installed, I used a dial caliper to measure from the bottom of the Stude dist part, added thickness of the thurst washer and then added another .100" or so. I then put the dist. gear and thrust washer on and slid the Stude shaft into the dist. and measured the clearance on the thrust washer and then, using a belt sander relieved the Stude shaft of metal until I achieved a .010 clearance on the thrust washer.
I removed the shafts from the dist. and I ground the Olds and Stude shafts (where they meet inside the coupler) on a 45 degree angle leaving about 1/8" blunt point on each one. I clamped the shafts into a piece of angle iron, butting the ground down points together. Mig welded the shafts together building up the weld so that it was higher than the shafts. Let it cool overnight still clamped together. Removed it from the angle iron and turned the weld down to the size of the shaft. Reclamped it into the angle iron with the unwelded half of the shaft exposed and welded up that side of the shaft. Let it cool overnight and then turned down that part of the weld.
I thought I may have to do same straightening of the shaft due to all the heat from the welding but I got lucky and the shaft slipped into the upper and lower dist. bushings with no problem.
I hope this answers you question 'cause now I'm tired of this hunt and peck typing.
I think I have less time in building the distributor than I do typing this.
Originally posted by 1962larksedan View PostThanks! Although could you post up some measurements of the cut lines to show how it all went together? Like PackardV8 stated: HEI stuff is still quite common, both stock and high performanceJerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk
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