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What is the correct length for the dip stick?

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  • Engine: What is the correct length for the dip stick?

    I am fixing up a 64 Lark with 289 engine. It has a chrome tube coming out of the block that the oil dip stick slides into. I have a couple chrome dip sticks to pick from but they have varying lengths.

    Can someone please tell me what is the correct length dip stick for this car?

    Thanks much.

  • #2
    Unless some of yours are for '51 to '55 V8's with 6 Qt. Pans or R3-R4's, I do not know why they would be different lengths unless they are 6 Cyl. and those usually have a different Top portion and cap and are the "Rigid" type, not flexible like a V8.

    Unless they were chromed after production, only Avanti/Jet Thrust Dipsticks would be Chrome.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      Thanks. I have to look closer at these I guess to see what's going on.

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      • #4
        Hi Jeff, I just checked My full flow 289 " non R engine " - and it is 23 7/8" long from bottom end too the very top of the dust cover.
        Joseph R. Zeiger

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        • #5
          I would suggest that the most important measurement is from bottom of the dust cover to the "full" line.

          One way to find out the correct measurement is to change the oil, fill the crankcase with the correct amount of oil, run the engine for a minute, shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes, then put in a clean dip stick. The oil level on the stick is the "full" line.

          That's how I calibrated a new dip stick and tube for one of my old Nash engines.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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          • #6
            Makes sense to me. jimmijim
            sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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            • #7
              RadioRoy I am curious as to what the correct amount of oil it would be for a 1958 president 289? I assume it would be 5 quarts did I get that correct? Not trying to be smart guy just got the same situation as Studefan, new dipstick markings say it's full but is it really? Thanks

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              • #8
                If you start it up after filling with 5 Qts. and it has the Oil Filter on the Oil Filler Pipe, it should be 1 Qt. Low if you did not add 1 for the filter, a Oil & Filter change takes 6 Qts.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  The standard language has always been that the oil filter holds one quart of oil. That has always bothered me, though, as the oil filter always looks like it's the volume of only 3/4 of a quart.

                  What is more important, to overfill by a half pint, or to underfill? I would always err on the side of a SLIGHT overfill, but it depends on the engine, the windage in the oil pan, the closeness of the crank to the top of the oil level, how well the oil drains back from the valve train, and so on.

                  I had a brand new 71 Plymouth Fury with a 318 that would not keep the oil at the full mark. It would spit/burn/throw it out somehow until it was about 1/3 quart lower than FULL on the dipstick. Then it would stay at that level for the next 3,000 miles until the next oil change. So I just started leaving it at that "1/3 low" level and it was happy.

                  Anyway, to calibrate a new dipstick, change the oil but not the filter. Leave the filter full of the old oil. Then add five quarts to the sump and do the routine.
                  Last edited by RadioRoy; 03-02-2014, 12:35 PM.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                  • #10
                    I agree with Roy... Many times the engine determines what it thinks is full. My 289 with filter will throw out any thing over 5 1/2 quarts. Its just as bad for the engine to overfill it than underfill it. I usually run it a little low if it seeks its own level and stays there.

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                    • #11
                      Always 'extra work' for the front and rear crank seals when one signifcantly overfills the crankcase.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                        I would suggest that the most important measurement is from bottom of the dust cover to the "full" line.

                        One way to find out the correct measurement is to change the oil, fill the crankcase with the correct amount of oil, run the engine for a minute, shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes, then put in a clean dip stick. The oil level on the stick is the "full" line.

                        That's how I calibrated a new dip stick and tube for one of my old Nash engines.
                        Roy, I agree with your calibration technique, except, drain the old oil, put the 5 fresh quarts in and calibrate it before starting.

                        That will give you the correct level in the pan with 5 quarts. After calibration, then start the engine, let it sit, and then add extra oil to get back to the level of the initial 5 quarts. The addition will be what the filter holds.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
                          Roy, I agree with your calibration technique, except, drain the old oil, put the 5 fresh quarts in and calibrate it before starting.

                          That will give you the correct level in the pan with 5 quarts. After calibration, then start the engine, let it sit, and then add extra oil to get back to the level of the initial 5 quarts. The addition will be what the filter holds.
                          Good point. And simpler than what I suggested and should work well.
                          Last edited by RadioRoy; 03-04-2014, 06:41 PM.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                          • #14
                            Here is a previous posting on dipsticks.

                            "Growing old is mandatory, but growing up is optional." author unknown

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                            • #15
                              " I agree with your (Roy) calibration technique, except, drain the old oil, put the 5 fresh quarts in and calibrate it before starting. That will give you the correct level in the pan with 5 quarts."

                              Most cars are 5 Qt's total - with the filter (volume). Most manuals I've seen (not Studebaker, but seems applicable) state a lower volume added if the filter isn't changed. Thus it seems if you put in 5 Qt's, mark the stick, then circulate, - then add back to that mark you have recalibrate beyond the 5 qt. (total) standard. As I have understood it is it 5 Qt's in the engine, not 5 Qt's in the pan. It seems Roy's initial recommendation is correct.
                              '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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