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I've got a leaky (freeze/core) plug

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  • Engine: I've got a leaky (freeze/core) plug

    It looks like one of the plugs in my engine block is seeping coolant. Not a lot, I can drive for weeks before the coolant level is even visibly lowered, but that leak is very ugly.



    I'm not quite sure if that's called a core plug or a freeze plug or what, but I need to replace it with something. I've seen some neat freeze plugs that have an expanding rubber part so you can easily remove them, but I don't know if they're any good or not.

    Is it best to just try to get the exact matching part? I don't really know what part to look for on vendor sites

    EDIT: I am dumb, forgot to mention it's a 1962 Daytona with the 6cyl engine.
    Last edited by jff; 07-26-2014, 10:49 AM.

  • #2



    This may be more information than you've asked for. Hope it helps.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by jff View Post
      It looks like one of the plugs in my engine block is seeping coolant. Not a lot, I can drive for weeks before the coolant level is even visibly lowered, but that leak is very ugly.



      I'm not quite sure if that's called a core plug or a freeze plug or what, but I need to replace it with something. I've seen some neat freeze plugs that have an expanding rubber part so you can easily remove them, but I don't know if they're any good or not.

      Is it best to just try to get the exact matching part? I don't really know what part to look for on vendor sites

      Well, hate to perform thread necromancy, but I'm going to bring this one back from the dead.

      Shortly after posting my initial question, I got engaged, so things were pretty busy between then and last week, when I got back from my honeymoon.

      In the meantime, it wasn't really a problem, I had to add a little more water at one point but the thing doesn't drip much. However, it's super ugly so I'd like to finally get it fixed.

      I'm seeing a lot of references to 1.5" freeze plugs on here. When I measure mine, though, they're significantly larger than that--I bought a 1.75" cup plug at the store, and even that seems too small for the plugs, it almost fits inside the currently installed ones.

      Has my engine been modified to take bigger, cup-type plugs?

      Comment


      • #4
        As you can see in the picture, it's stuck behind that damn breather tube: http://i.imgur.com/xIEIULu.jpg

        I don't think one of the rubber plugs will go back there at all, and honestly I'm not sure I'll be able to tap in a normal plug properly either.

        Can that piece that the breather tube connects to be removed?

        Comment


        • #5
          It's the Stude V8's that use the 1 1/2"....both concave and later cup type.

          Comment


          • #6
            That breather tube is pressed into the block. You are going to have to pull it out. It probably won't be easy, and you may ruin getting it out. I would think SI sells new tubes. Order one when you call and order the core plug.
            Jerry Forrester
            Forrester's Chrome
            Douglasville, Georgia

            See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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            • #7
              If you don't replace it soon....it will dump your entire coolant supply out at the most in-opportune time... AND in the most inopportune place.
              Procrastination is not your friend!

              Comment


              • #8
                That "Breather Tube" should not be there, I just checked my '63 Lark OHV Six.
                Is this Engine a Truck Engine or a Flathead Six?
                A '62 Lark Daytona 6 should have an Overhead Valve Engine, and this does not look like one.

                WHAT was fastened to that pipe?


                First; order (3) 1 7/8 Inch Cup type Brass Core Plugs and (1) 1 1/2 Inch Cup Type Brass Core Plug from a Studebaker Vendor or a real Parts Store like NAPA to begin.

                Take a firm grip on that Breather Tube? (I do not remember there being a hole for the flathead Oil Filler Pipe on a OHV Engine.) at the top and wiggle it left and right, then forward and back until you get some movement, continuing this movement will sometimes get them to pull out.

                Then be sure you drain the cooling system into a pan from the radiator drain cock at the right front. Then cover the Oil filler hole with cardboard, plastic, a rag or whatever is handy and proceed to punch out the Core Plugs. Sometimes if you hit them on one outer edge with a drift Punch and Hammer they will spin allowing you to grab them with a pliers and pull out.
                Last edited by StudeRich; 07-26-2014, 08:17 PM.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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                • #9
                  Heartiest congratulations on your recent marriage. May it be a long and happy one.
                  John Clements
                  Christchurch, New Zealand

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'd say that this is one of those opportune times where if you're going to do one of them, you might as well pull all of them and flush out the block!

                    I did the ones in my 289 in the '55 a few weeks back, but I pulled all of them out, flushed the silt from the block, and put in the ones from NAPA in there. It was easy getting them out, as I punched them with a chisel and hammer, and peeled them out of the block. The new ones should JUST slip in there, but depending what versions that you get, when they are punched in, or tightened up, they should flare out and seal the port in the block once they are in place. The fancy copper versions that I used have an outer copper ring that flared out, when the acorn nut was tightened up to the internal steel washer in the plug.

                    I would also advise buying one of those "rubber stopper" guys for the emergency toolkit in the event a freeze plug comes out at inopportune time, and you can't get to that plug right away.
                    1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                    1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                    1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                    1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                      That "Breather Tube" should not be there, I just checked my '63 Lark OHV Six.
                      Is this Engine a Truck Engine or a Flathead Six?
                      A '62 Lark Daytona 6 should have an Overhead Valve Engine, and this does not look like one.

                      WHAT was fastened to that pipe?


                      First; order (3) 1 7/8 Inch Cup type Brass Core Plugs and (1) 1 1/2 Inch Cup Type Brass Core Plug from a Studebaker Vendor or a real Parts Store like NAPA to begin.

                      Take a firm grip on that Breather Tube? (I do not remember there being a hole for the flathead Oil Filler Pipe on a OHV Engine.) at the top and wiggle it left and right, then forward and back until you get some movement, continuing this movement will sometimes get them to pull out.

                      Then be sure you drain the cooling system into a pan from the radiator drain cock at the right front. Then cover the Oil filler hole with cardboard, plastic, a rag or whatever is handy and proceed to punch out the Core Plugs. Sometimes if you hit them on one outer edge with a drift Punch and Hammer they will spin allowing you to grab them with a pliers and pull out.
                      This is what was connected to it:



                      The filter was in the end by the engine, the other end hung down toward the ground.

                      As far as I know, it's the regular 6cyl Lark engine, OHV. 62 was the year where they switched part-way to a full-flow oil filter system, right? Mine is the older one, without a filter.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If I recall correctly. In the current place of your "down draft" tube. There should be a very small freeze type plug. This plug has nothing to do with the cooling system only keeping oil in crank case.

                        On the OHV 6 you state is in your car. The only down draft tube that should be present would be located on the passenger side; rear hydraulic lifter cover. The tube fits into a hole with its gasket and a long skinny bolt holds the tubes position as well as keeping the cork gasket tight.

                        If that passenger side tube isn't present then someone has taken a lifter cover from a flat head engine and replaced it and possibly found a "different" crank case ventilation spot.

                        And replace that freeze plug. It's just a matter of time before it rusts further and as the system pressurized fluid will stream out. Our vendors will have the correct plugs. DORMAN is a major manufacture of these.

                        Another thing. Tight shots are nice. A more full shot of your engine will help assist us in assisting you. One of each side of the ohv 6.
                        Last edited by 4961Studebaker; 07-27-2014, 10:58 AM.
                        61 Lark

                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Here are some wider shots of the engine:

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                          • #14
                            The parts book shows a 'question mark' or 'shepard's hook' breather tube for '62S only. This is probably a California car with a PCV system. The repair manual shows a hose from the PCV valve wrapped around the front of the engine and connected to the short tube.
                            You may need an exhaust pipe expander (or something that fits snugly inside the short tube) and a small exhaust clamp around the outside to grasp with large slip-joint pliers so you can rock the tube back and forth.
                            Now, what is that non-Stude appearing, rectangular device with two vacuum (?) hoses mounted on the firewall next to the wiper motor?
                            Restorations by Skip Towne

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                            • #15
                              This Car has quite a few "Tricks", in addition to the Left Side Breather tube, it has what looks like a Manual Choke Holly 1 Brl.

                              All Studebaker cars since 1947 had Automatic chokes and Carter Carbs. on all Sixes.

                              UPDATE: Looking at Post #14, what it would have to be is just the opposite, a Non-PCV Car NOT for Calif. or New York, hence the breather Tube on the left instead of the PCV hose.
                              Last edited by StudeRich; 07-27-2014, 12:13 PM.
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                              SDC Member Since 1967

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