Dstributor rubs the firewall.

[52-fan]

When I pulled the distributor on the 259 in my 52 I could see where the distributor has been rubbing on the firewall. I know that the 1960 259 and the original 232 are basically the same engine. Is there any reason that the engine should be tilted back enough for the distributor to be too close? I would think that with the proper engine and bell housing mounts the engine should be properly located. Where do I look first for the problem?

[nels]

When I pulled the distributor on the 259 in my 52 I could see where the distributor has been rubbing on the firewall. I know that the 1960 259 and the original 232 are basically the same engine. Is there any reason that the engine should be tilted back enough for the distributor to be too close? I would think that with the proper engine and bell housing mounts the engine should be properly located. Where do I look first for the problem?

I imagine your transmission mounts are shot.

[StudeRich]

A 1960 and '61 Lark V8 Distributor is a Delco Window Dist. these cars came with the smaller early Delco Dist. that is the problem.

[Bud]

I agree with Rich on the window distributor being larger than the earlier Delco distributor which will cause problems in an earlier engine, but I would think that you should also check the transmission mounts for signs of failure to be absolutely sure they aren't a part of the problem. Bud

[studegary]

I have used the window distributors in many early V8s without a problem. I would suspect that the engine and/or transmission mounts are sagged and/or separated. Since your engine has been replaced more than once, also, check that the mounts are in the correct holes and that the proper spacers are in place.

[52-fan]

The distributor that came with the engine is not a window type, although I have one I would like to use. The mounts should be fairly new, but I had planned to check them.

[StudeRich]

Gary, would "early" include '51 and '52? Those '47 to '52 Bodies do not have the Firewall to Engine clearance that '53 to '64's have.

I remember how tight it was trying to remove one of those Delco Window Distributors from a '61 Lark and how easy they drop into '53 to '64 C and K's.

[52-fan]

I'm still hoping that someone who has actually swapped a later Stude V-8 into a 51 or 52 Commander will chime in. I did some research in my parts books. The mounts from 53 on seem to be the same. This car has the later mounts. I have considered raising the bell housing mount to tip the engine, but it may not have room. I hope the solution does not involve moving anything enough to effect the drive shaft length.

[showbizkid]

Well, modifying the engine angle at the bellhousing enough to improve clearance will likely not require a longer driveshaft as the slip joint would have enough flexibility to make up the additional fractional length. But you will affect your driveline angles in a way that may not be favorable.

[studegary]

Gary, would "early" include '51 and '52? Those '47 to '52 Bodies do not have the Firewall to Engine clearance that '53 to '64's have.

I remember how tight it was trying to remove one of those Delco Window Distributors from a '61 Lark and how easy they drop into '53 to '64 C and K's.

You raise a good question. Most of my work of this type has been on C/K bodies. Offhand, I do not remember a '51-'52 that I did this to.

[StudeRich]

'51-'52 Commander Engine Mounts

I'm still hoping that someone who has actually swapped a later Stude V-8 into a 51 or 52 Commander will chime in. I did some research in my parts books. The mounts from 53 on seem to be the same. This car has the later mounts. I have considered raising the bell housing mount to tip the engine, but it may not have room. I hope the solution does not involve moving anything enough to effect the drive shaft length.

No I have not installed a '53 and later Engine in a '51 or '52 But, I have pulled enough of these '51-'52 Commanders apart to know a couple things.

I think what you need to know is that the Front Engine Mount Frame Brackets have huge holes for the Bolt through, Two piece Type '51-'52 Engine Mounts.

If Leonard never changed those, the proper fix is to replace them with the very common '53 to '64 Sedan Frame Brackets with the proper holes for the '53-'64 One Piece Engine Mounts. Or just weld a plate on the Top and drill the 3/8 " Holes.

[52-fan]

I'll look into changing the frame mounts. I can see that if the original frame mount holes were too large the engine would sit back a bit in the holes. Welding a plate on top would raise the front of the engine and might aggravate the problem. I included the pictures of the engine going in at Lenard's so you can see the transmission and bell housing used.
I notice, when looking at the pictures closely, the engine seems to sit toward the rear of the frame mount. I don't know if that's normal since I don't have anything to compare it to.

[StudeRich]

I am sure if you remove the Nut from the bottom of the frame bracket and probably a large fender washer, you will see the huge hole and the stud is to the rear of it.

[52-fan]

I thought I would update this post for the benefit of anyone else who faces this with a 51 or 52.
While I was working on the 52 yesterday I looked closely at how the recess in the firewall is made. I remembered that the early distributors are two piece and likely taller than the later versions. After looking at pictures I had saved of various engines, it was obvious that the original distributor would fit the firewall just fine, but the body of the later version misses the factory made recess. I will most likely have to form a slight dimple in the firewall for clearance. No big deal if I'm am careful and it is very hard to see anyway.

The first picture is a 232 with the stock two piece distributor and the second is a 259 with the later style.

[jclary]

If it is a mere "RUB" as you describe...sounds like we are dealing with extremely close tolerance. I wonder if you could nose the car up to some unmovable object, like a sturdy building pillar/huge oak tree (a familiar spot for us "shade-tree mechanics") and position something like a piece of 4 X 4 post and a hydraulic jack in a straight line to the firewall. Use something like a piece of cut tire rubber or sneaker sole to cushion the firewall contact area...and ease enough clearance with hydraulic pressure.

This past Saturday, I replaced the points in my 1951 Land Cruiser. It has the stock two piece distributor. Clearance is very tight. My 1960 Lark 259 has the Delco window type distributor. Neither one has a lot of clearance along the firewall.