opinions please.................

[candbstudebakers]

I have a 63 GT hawk that is a project car, it is an R-1 with 4 speed and air, power steering and power brakes.
My question is how should I offer this car when ready to sell it. here is a couple of pictures of it as it sits now, there is rust holes in the front floors also in the pictures and some good floor pan to make the repairs. Question should I install the floor pans and put every thing back on the car to make it look complete I have every thing to do that and most items are rather nice shape.

The engine is apart but all there except for the Avanti pan and the numbers match the car, this is a original super hawk but no tach or 160 speedo, the interior is out but real nice black and in good shape and clean in my garage,the body is rather straight and nice, the trunk in the pictures is not the trunk for the car but the one for the car is in the shop all body worked and nice, the trunk over lay is not real good. it has original disk brake wheels and full wheel covers, chrome and stainless is in good shape, wheel well trim pieces are nice but not perfect.

I think if it goes on e-bay it needs to be looking like a complete car as much as possible as first time buyers might not be interested in one all apart, but most club members that plan on restoring one would or might want to not have to take every thing off again to re do the car, keep in mind this is a super hawk with 4 speed, opinions please. myself I would rather have every thing there and packed and shipped apart except maybe putting on the bumpers, the more I do the more it will sell for.

[unclemiltie]

I think you will get more money the more complete the car is looking.

[ndynis]

If I were looking at this to buy on ebay I would appreciate having the body panels installed already (with pictures before and after) and maybe the seats inside since they probably would go there when shipped anyway. I wouldn't worry about the bright work but would like to see pictures of it. The engine would be rebuilt anyway so having it apart would be helpful.
Just my $0.02 worth!
Nick

[candbstudebakers]

Thanks so far for your input please keep them coming it will help.

[Dick Steinkamp]

One of the reasons you got a deal on it is because it is all apart. That condition LOOKS like a daunting project to most AND it is difficult to get many interested in a car that doesn't look like a car.

I'd for sure put it back together.

Instead of repairing the floor, I'd consider putting that rust free tan GT body on it that you got from Pat D. Repaired rust to some is almost as much of a turn off as actual rust.

Don't primer or paint anything. No POR15.

It is a special car and needs to appeal to the broadest audience in order to get the best price.

[JEWELL]

Bob, I would fix the floors and do nothing else. This is a true project car and not everyone can weld (I can't) give the buyer something solid to start with.

Mark

[63t-cab]

I agree 110% with Dick,You have these items too combine and makes it a more rust free project.again the partial patching thing can be a turn off for many,and the un-seen !

One of the reasons you got a deal on it is because it is all apart. That condition LOOKS like a daunting project to most AND it is difficult to get many interested in a car that doesn't look like a car.

I'd for sure put it back together.

Instead of repairing the floor, I'd consider putting that rust free tan GT body on it that you got from Pat D. Repaired rust to some is almost as much of a turn off as actual rust.

Don't primer or paint anything. No POR15.

It is a special car and needs to appeal to the broadest audience in order to get the best price.

[jackb]

if on here, or for a Stude-specific audience, show it in parts...all the parts ! The AC is a huge plus only if complete...many pics will help. Now if for a wider audience, beyond the immediate Stude world...... you need to make it look like a quick Maaco paint job drives the car to the nearest cruise night/show.....I believe there are many folks out there that want just that. Of course, they have no clue what an R1 is.....would be much better with a complete and running straight 289.... but that's a different audience. Try the Stude nuts 1st in parts, and if you don't sell, do some work and eBay for the masses, many of who will be most attracted to age and price....

[Pat Dilling]

I would suggest that you complete the rust repair in the floor at a minimum. All that would cost you is time and some MIG wire. Or better still, do as Dick suggested and do the body swap since it appears that car may be going to the crusher. You will get just as much at the scrapper for the rusty one as the one in good shape and I think you would get a lot more for a rust free version than one that needs repair or even has been repaired.

[wittsend]

Maybe I'm seeing it differently, but the rust seems to extend beyond the replacement panels. I realize the worse is within the panels coverage. However, my experience with welding (MIG welding) thin metal is that it just gets holes blown in it when there are the likely rust pock marks. Maybe gas or TIG welding is more forgiving if you are skilled.

If you sell it as a "Project" I'd recommend extensive photos of all the parts that are included. As well, I'd describe it as "knowing what your getting" since the floors etc. aren't covered up with nice carpet.

[StudeRich]

As you know, the BEST Car could be built using that solid Body instead of the rust bucket.
The only thing that is special and Important is that R1 Super Hawk Serial Number plate, and you could cut around it and grind the welds off from the back, drill out the welds on the old Plate, Fuser Cement "Weld" the Super Hawk Plate on the good Body and be good to go.

If you have Titles for both, it should not be illegal.

[rknight89]

Disassembled cars scare potential buyers...usually. They aren't sure if all the parts are there if they can't see the complete car. I'd trust you if you said everything was all there...but normally, most people wouldn't buy a box full of parts and assume everything was there. What if that ONE important, expensive, rare part is missing???

[1962larksedan]

As you know, the BEST Car could be built using that solid Body instead of the rust bucket.
The only thing that is special and Important is that R1 Super Hawk Serial Number plate, and you could cut around it and grind the welds off from the back, drill out the welds on the old Plate, Fuser Cement "Weld" the Super Hawk Plate on the good Body and be good to go.

If you have Titles for both, it should not be illegal.

That is a good question since the R1 frame would still correspond to the S/N plate; said Hawk would simply be a rebody but most of the original car would live on.......... The best people to discuss that with would be the CHP.

[wittsend]

"The only thing that is special and Important is that R1 Super Hawk Serial Number plate, and you could cut around it and grind the welds off from the back, drill out the welds on the old Plate, Fuser Cement "Weld" the Super Hawk Plate on the good Body and be good to go."

You do that in the Sunbeam Tiger community and they would castrate you! http://www.rootes1.com/ then see "Alger - The Fraud", Click on the "Caution" (multiple dates), and "Forgeries."

[avantilover]

You could attach the original serial number plate to a plaque under the hood stating the car is using a different body, but is otherwise how it left the factory. No dishonesty then.