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63Avanti
09-24-2006, 07:49 AM
More Questions Need Brake Part Info:
Removing the rear axle, see other post. In the process, I am taking the opportunity to check out the rest of the undercarriage.

Three Questions so far (63 Studebaker Avanti):
(I already have check all the Studebaker catalogs, paper and on-line, so reference to them is not helpful :) )
1. what is the manufacturer/manufacturer's part number for the rear drum brakes? I need this for x-ref at auto parts places. Their books do not list "Studebaker"
2. what is the part number for the nut that connects the brake line to the brake backplate? This was rounded and I "finished" the process.
3. what is the part number of the bleeder? It is missing. I found the following, is it right? <197097 Bleeder Screw>

Thanks!

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS

Guido
09-24-2006, 07:56 AM
quote: 1. what is the manufacturer/manufacturer's part number for the rear drum brakes? I need this for x-ref at auto parts places. Their books do not list "Studebaker"
Terry,

Are you looking for a brake DRUM or for rear brake SHOES?

Gary

Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

Roscomacaw
09-24-2006, 03:01 PM
The rear shoes are Rayloc (NAPA brand)# B-176
These should be readily available as they're shared some some sorta F*rd product.[^]

The front shoes were Rayloc# B-177 but were peculiar to Studebaker and unless you luck upon a dusty old box on the back shelf of some OLD auto parts place, you'll have to get your shoes relined.;)

Any good auto parts store should be able to cross-reference these numbers for you.

If you need drums - forget the parts houses. Stude vendors have some tho.[^]

Further - the Studebaker part# for the pipe nut is G137396, but if you buy a new line from an auto parts place, there'll already be new nuts on it. If you're thinking of just replacing the nut on your existing line, you're gonna have to be able to redo the DOUBLE flare that you'll have to cut off that holds the nut captive. Doing this may make the line TOO short to reinstall very easy, so just getting a new universal line with nuts already installed might well be the way to go.

Yes, 197097 is the bleeder screw.:)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Guido
09-24-2006, 03:58 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs
The front shoes were Rayloc# B-177 but were peculiar to Studebaker and unless you luck upon a dusty old box on the back shelf of some OLD auto parts place, you'll have to get your shoes relined.;)
Bigsy,

Front shoes on an Avanti? Do you mean pads?

Gary

Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

sbca96
09-24-2006, 04:49 PM
I replied to your post in AOAI :

I am confused by your questions :

1 . I believe that Studebaker pretty much used Bendix parts, but you will not be
able to find them at your local parts house. The offset is different then anything
that would be close. They are available from some Studebaker vendors. I have
a complete rear assembly (minus the hubs) for an Avanti (from switching to the
rear disc setup I made). The drums are within spec, one has a couple turns on
it left, the other might squeeze one more out.

2. I am not sure what "nut" you mean on the brake line to backing plate. The
brake line screws directly into the wheel cylinder, and doesnt touch the backing
plate at all. Perhaps you mean the flare fitting on the line? If thats the case you
can just use flare tubing from your local Napa, they come in different lengths and
you can screw into the "T" block on the drivers side of the axle. Make sure you
inspect the rubber hose coming down from the frame, mine was worn through to
just about bursting - from rubbing on "something".

3. Is the bleeder "missing" or is it broken off?? If it was missing you would have
no rear brakes, if its broken off then it will have to be extracted (not an easy task
with years of rust). The set of brakes I mentioned above have backing plates
and wheel cylinders (need rebuild) and working bleeders. The bleeder you can
get from most parts houses, once you remove whats left of the old one.

Hope that helps.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

Roscomacaw
09-24-2006, 05:32 PM
I had HAWK on the brain, so none of what I said is of any use here. Thanks for keepin' me straight here Gary![8]

I show Rayloc # B-173 for relined rear shoes on an Avanti. I don't know if that's a viable number anymore. S-702 is their number for front pads. I've got a couple sets of vintage Jag pads here that fit. Bought out the inventory of a foreign auto parts store a few years back and kept the pads that fit the Stude discs.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle!!

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

63Avanti
09-24-2006, 08:46 PM
quote:Originally posted by tsterkel
clarifications and a new question

Need Brake Part Info:
Removing the rear axle, see other post. In the process, I am taking the opportunity to check out the rest of the undercarriage.

Three Questions so far (63 Studebaker Avanti):
(I already have check all the Studebaker catalogs, paper and on-line, so reference to them is not helpful :) )
1. what is the manufacturer/manufacturer's part number for the rear drum brakes? I need this for x-ref at auto parts places. Their books do not list "Studebaker"
a couple of you "got" this. I am looking for the OEM, in the hopes of finding the xref for the OEM, as the 4 parts stores around here do not cover Studebaker on their computer/books, except for major replacement parts such as brake shoes
2. what is the part number for the nut that connects the brake line to the brake backplate? This was rounded and I "finished" the process.
yes, it is a coupling, thanks for the correction, and the suggestion to replace the entire line (about 1 meter)
3. what is the part number of the bleeder? It is missing. I found the following, is it right? <197097 Bleeder Screw>
oops!!! I just got the following part number, 1558192 Bleeder Screw, which is it?


4. <new question> What is the part number (and source) of the expanding clip that hold the parking brake cable in the brake backing plate? Also, is there a way to remove the parking brake cable without destroying the clip?

Thanks!

Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS


Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS

N8N
09-24-2006, 08:55 PM
the 155 part number is correct for the bleeder screw. For some reason the Avanti/front disc rear wheel cylinders use a different bleeder than every other Studebaker wheel cylinder, and I don't know what the difference is (not having ever owned a Stude with factory disc brakes.)

I've had good luck trying to look up hardware part numbers on various mfgrs. web sites, try Wagner and Bendix first. I have tried to look up the numbers I'd forseeably have to replace someday and put them on my web site (because it is time consuming to look up and sometimes requires a little bit of judgement and/or guesswork) but I did not look up that clip because the "normal" rear drums don't use it.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

sbca96
09-24-2006, 09:22 PM
The clip on the parking brake is easy to remove really, if I know the
one you are talking about. Its got like four "fingers" that snap out
to hold the cable in place? If this is the one you are talking about,
than all you have to do is use a standard screwdriver, and push on of
the fingers in until it snaps back into the hole. Than you hold the
cable such that it keeps the finger in the hole, and snap the next one
into the hole, moving the cable to keep it in the hole. Keep doing
this until you have one left, and push that one toward the hole, while
pulling slightly on the cable, once you get it in, the cable will come
right out ready to use again.

The backing plates, wheel cylinders, and shoes are all different from
the standard 4 wheel drum setup. The "Avanti" rear drum shoes are even
adjusted differently. I am still not picking up what knowing who made
the drums is going to do for you, Autozone will not have them.;)

Tom

63Avanti
09-24-2006, 09:35 PM
ok, now I broke a "finger". what is the part number or better yet, NAPA xref, I like my local NAPA!

quote:Originally posted by sbca96

The clip on the parking brake is easy to remove really, if I know the
one you are talking about. Its got like four "fingers" that snap out
to hold the cable in place? If this is the one you are talking about,
than all you have to do is use a standard screwdriver, and push on of
the fingers in until it snaps back into the hole. Than you hold the
cable such that it keeps the finger in the hole, and snap the next one
into the hole, moving the cable to keep it in the hole. Keep doing
this until you have one left, and push that one toward the hole, while
pulling slightly on the cable, once you get it in, the cable will come
right out ready to use again.

The backing plates, wheel cylinders, and shoes are all different from
the standard 4 wheel drum setup. The "Avanti" rear drum shoes are even
adjusted differently. I am still not picking up what knowing who made
the drums is going to do for you, Autozone will not have them.;)

Tom


Terry,
1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
2000 VW Jetta GLS

sbca96
09-24-2006, 10:26 PM
Bummer that you broke it. I dont know what or where you can get the
replacement from. Try Studebaker International in the morning? I have
never broken one taking it apart that way. There is no pressure on it,
since you are only moving it back into the hole. Sorry that did not
work, I have removed mine over and over through out the years & never
had a problem.[V]

Tom