(UPDATE)259 Coolant Passage Cleaning (What a frickn mess!)

[TDC71]

Well I'm replacing the heater hoses on the '58 Commander the wife n I recently purchased. And the lower rad hose and t-stat too. Decided to check the core plugs and found a very small weep from the center one on the driver side. Stabbed all of them with a screw driver and they all passed the test. Still....... being OCD I decided now was the time to replace them all. Popped all 6 out after getting 6 new ones in hand. I've been back reading alot of topics posted here for information and I got to tell you like so many here said........... There is alot of crud inside that block. All 6 plugs were completley covered.
You couldnt tell I had removed them. Six wall's of mud I stabbed through and then came some fluid. I fashioned a tool from a steel banding strap to get in there and freeup the muck. Stab stab stab, garden hose til it's clean. Stab stab scrape scrape garden hose. For 1 hour I was at it. Poor engine has a cooling coronary goin on. That motor should be one cool cat when its all sealed up again.
That is some of the nastiest stuff I have ever seen come froma block. I'm putting convex core plugs back in and the block surface is in great shape where they seat. Still gonna run a small bead of sealant along the plugs for peace of mind. to all of you that have done this "KUDOS" that Is one nasty job. Todd

(Just got done going through the warm up til the thermostat opened. No leaks and no core plugs shooting out of the block. Both heater cores nice and dry. The hoses to the main core were original. They still had undercoating on them. I cut one open and it was so soft and started falling apart internally. Now I wont have a burst hose scenario running through my head when I drive her. That was always bothering me. Temp gauge sits right in the middle. Think it's time to stop typing and go driving.....WOO HOO!!!!!!!! Thanks for all the pointers guys. Made life a lil easier. Todd

[StudeRich]

I do hope you were able to find the older Disc type, domed 1 1/2 Inch original type, in Brass, so you will never have to go through that job again.

If you read enough posts here on the subject, I am sure you got that the more common "Cup" type will not work in a pre-mid 1962 partial flow block.

[Flashback]

Yep, just went through that. This one was the easy way, with engine out and pressure washer. Before was solid, picture didnt get saved. Here's one of the afters:

[TDC71]

I did get the domed 1 1/2 plugs but I couldnt find the brass. Just soft steel. The way the ones looked like when I yanked them made me feel alright. They were steel and had no pitting same as the block. When I saw that mud I thought for sure it would be pitted. They were just coated in that sludge. That bloc
k looks nice in the picture. I know mine is not that clean but all the major stuff is out. Still has some light stuff at towards the front of the block. But the water was finally shooting out clear. I back flushed the heater cores also. What temp t-stat should I run. Temps here in Montana get uppers nineties but usally hang around 80's in summer. I have a 160 degree in hand but wont use it if the majority says 180. Thanks Todd

[Tom Bredehoft]

Go with the 160, that, or 165 was the factory spec.

[Corvanti]

yep, the 160 the thermostat is what i would use.

[rockne10]

I doubt you will find any original block that they bothered cleaning out much of the residual casting sand and sprues.
After mine got cooked I still spent a few hours chipping, chiseling and scraping.

[BRUCESTUDE]

The '51 Commander I recently sold had a similar cleaning job, with a pressure washer and the engine out and water pump off. What a difference! The radiator was a newer recore so with the 180 t-stat it never got over mid range after that.

[jackb]

.... with your block now clean, it will/should run cool as can be. repeating myself: after performing this cleaning on 2 Stude V8's and running a 160 stat with AC, I never saw temps above 180...... to your question tho, I would probably prefer a 180 stat in your clime. We get roughly your temps in New England and the 180 keeps the cabin warmer late in the driving season. And unless you've got no carpets or firewall insulation, you shouldn't get too hot come summer.......part of the old car experience for me....

[DEEPNHOCK]

Thank you for sharing, Todd.
Thank you for taking the time to do the job right.
Thank you for not taking the cheap, quick, and easy shortcut (that usually does not prove to be quick, easy, or cheap)

Only thing you could have done better is to put an accurate, descriptive header to the thread.
A descriptive specific procedure header description so that anyone searching in the future about block cleaning would end up reading this particular thread.
Something like "Cleaning The Studebaker V8 Cooling System - Block Cleaning - Messy, But Worth Doing"
(You can edit your header by selecting 'advanced', if you want)

[TDC71]

Thank you Jeff. Title is more descriptive and accurate Todd

[DEEPNHOCK]

Thank you Jeff. Title is more descriptive and accurate Todd

Love it!
You're a good man!
(Want to clean my 289 engine coolant passages? There's a market for that, you know!)

[SN-60]

Well done Todd!....a dirty job that needed to be done. It's important to remember to still occasionally flush the cooling system (as Studebaker recommended) to keep it in good shape. A can of cooling system 'anti-rust' treatment has also always been a sound investment!

[TDC71]

Thanks for the heads up jackb. I'm going to drop in the 160. If it does not have good heat then I'll put in a 180. It's easy compared to what I just did. I did get a small jug of cooling system anti-rust for it also. Has lubricating properties I thought the pump would need.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Some good coolant info is at:

http://prestone.com/learn_more/frequently_asked_questions