Brake info...to all driving on old systems

[Mike Van Veghten]

It behooves (ha..how do ya like that word ?) me to let everyone know what I found today.

I bought my latest "running and driving"...54 wagon from a guy here in SoCal who said he'd been driving the car since he gained ownership...about 6 months previous.

I finally got to finishing up tearing apart the brake system in preperation for a whole new system (except the pedal). I removed the rear lines this evening and was removing the lines from the axle "T" and tossing the hard lines in the trash.. I noticed that the "T" was oddly dirty full of crud, as in almost plugged..!
I cleaned up one end of the rubber line and blew thru it....or at least tried to. I'd say it was at least 80% blocked..! I gave the original rear end away so I really don't know if the rear brakes were working or not by looking at the shoe wear....but...
I pulled one of the hard lines out of the trash and again, cleaned up one end, tried blowing thru it....maybe 50% blocked as compared to a new line about twice as long...(the old shorter line should have been much easier to blow thru) !

All this is to say, that for those of you driving on stock 50+ year old brake lines...this winter might be a good time to install new lines...front to rear.

Mike

[Bob Andrews]

I always replace the steel lines, regardless of appearance. They're dirt cheap and easy to replace. Doesn't make sense not to.

[rockne10]

First procedure on acquiring a vehicle of unknown heritage: overhaul the brakes!

[avantilover]

First procedure on acquiring a vehicle of unknown heritage: overhaul the brakes!

Yes indeed, did that on a Bill Pressler's old '66 Daytona, found a damaged drivers side (still LHD) keyway and leaky wheel cylinder. Drives and stops well now, have done 1100 miles since it arrived and just love it.

[52 Ragtop]

Also be sure to check the brake hoses! If there is NO date on the hose, then that hose IS older than 1977 when the DOT began requiring the date, and manufacturer of the hose every 6 inches.
Steel lines and hoses are cheap, compared to what could happen if the brakes fail.

Jim

[southbend]

Yes. As the old saying goes. First, make sure it goes and stops, then worry about the rest. The '35 Dictator I acquired in October of this (soon to be next) year sat in storage from 1975 to 2011. When I inquired about the brakes, the seller told me he put new shoes on the car a couple of years ago but didn't do anything with the hoses, lines, or brake and master cylinders since they "looked" okay. This told me immediately that the car was in need of a complete brake system overhaul, especially since the brake pedal travels half way to the floorboard before there is any resistance. Brakes are first on the agenda this winter before the car is driven. And don't forget to replace the shoe return springs!

[55s]

Many years ago, I had all of my brakes replaced on my car by a mechanic from a large chain: new lines, wheel cylinders, master cylinder - or so I thought. One day later, when approaching an intersection, no brakes! I had to stop myself with the parking brake and driving over the median. I was lucky there was no accident and a gas station was next to me.

I re-checked. Everything had been replaced except for one short steel line that had a hold down clip. A hole had formed in the old brake line under the clip. I replaced it, and have never taken my car back there again.

Even if appears to be good, replace it!

[BRUCESTUDE]

Unfortunately everything ages! When I was in high school (early 70s) my favorite '51-'52 Studes were just 20 years old, so back then one could put a kit in the brakes and go (and stop). Now, like mentioned previously, it pays to replace everything, and it really isn't that expensive to do so. I'm to the point now that I am considering upgrading to aftermarket discs since they are readily available.

[northern]

Lots of good advice here. After I finish the rewire on the Commander, the next project should be replacement of all brake lines.

One of the scariest moments of my life occurred with a total brake failure on a freshly restored C1 Corvette. (Maybe that's a dirty word on this forum - if so, I apologize in advance.) That one had gone through a complete rotisserie restoration, with every possible part on the car replaced or refurbished. I did not do most of the work that time and trusted in the good reputation of the shop that did the work.

When the brakes failed, I realized that I had a choice of ramming the back of a Hummer or going into a crowd of people. The Hummer would have made a real mess of all that pretty GM chrome and fiberglass. And running over several people would not have ended well either. After a moment of disbelief and retrying the brakes, only to have the pedal go to the floor again, I instinctively reached for the handbrake and pulled as hard as I could. The rear wheels locked up and the Vette screeched to a stop. Most emergency brakes that I have known on old cars have not worked well. But I was very thankful that one worked that day.

In that case, even a dual master cylinder would not have helped. The round pin that connects the foot pedal to the brake mechanism had fallen out. It should have had a cotter pin through the end to hold it in place. But no cotter pin was found on the carpet after the incident. Whoever did the brake work on the car obviously neglected to install the cotter pin. Maybe the phone rang, or they went for a coffee break, or ran out of pins that size. Who knows.

Ever since that day, I pay more attention to the condition of emergency brakes. They are named that for a reason.

[Pat Dilling]

Brakes and suspension were the first things I tackled on the Conestoga. If you are not able to find parts you like/need from Studebaker vendors or FLAPS, EBay has just about everything for brakes, including steel lines, hoses and wheel cylinder kits. The universal brake line kit I got has enough pieces to do two or three cars. Also invest in a good double flaring tool and learn how to use it. You can practice on the old lines you take off. Conversion to a dual master cylinder on those cars that don't have it is one of the best safety investments you can make.

[Flashback]

I completely agree, on replacing all brake components first. If it won't run, it can't hurt you. If it don't stop, it can.

[studeclunker]

Okay... since we're on the subject of brakes here: has anyone done business with "Parts American" on the 'bay? What do you think of their kits? Another thing; I'd like to add a booster (power brakes) to Bess (56 Parkview). I have two Hydrovacs, one of which is actually functional (will send both in to be re-done). I will have the assistance of a pro who is patient enough to work with DIYers like myself, but would like the opinion of this group since you all have the brand-specific experience.