Ignition: Ignition switch removal

[decappastubbie]

I know how to remove most Studebaker car ignition switches but I am not having any luck with a 1962 Lark switch.
The bezel rotates fine but it will not disengage from the ignition switch housing. This bezel doesn't have slots that engage with the housing.

Any help would be great.
Thanks.

[63t-cab]

When I removed the switch from my Champ,it just completely un-screws.maybe a replacement swith,I'm not sure-but maybe you need too just keep going counter clock wise until the cows come home .

[decappastubbie]

I believe this is the original switch and the bezel or switch should turn just a bit and come apart.

Thanks for the input.

[63t-cab]

You got Me,I think Mine is a threaded aluminum retainer.

[Warren Webb]

The bezel should not turn. Disconnect the battery. Then with one hand hold pressure towards the dash on the bezel while the other hand reaches up under the dash & grabs the switch, pressing in towards the bezel just a bit & turning. It should turn only a small amount & then be able to release & move inwards. Make sure you have the battery disconnected before doing anything. The switch 63t-cab has is an generic aftermarket switch, common replacement at most auto parts stores. They work but are not original & your keys cannot be made to work them.

[StudeRich]

You got Me,I think Mine is a threaded aluminum retainer.

You have one of Studebaker of California's (now S.I.) early attempt at a replacement Switch & Switch Bezel. I should know, I sold dozens of them when I was the Parts guy there in Calif.

They used a Standard Dodge Truck Screw-on knurl nut type Ignition Switch and Lock, and then threw away the knurl nut and replaced it with an Ingvar Vic, machined Aluminum Bezel that uses a tiny Allen wrench to clock and tighten it, it's a pita to install, but cheaper than the newer "real deal" Original Repro setup. This cheaper one is still available as 800840.

I suppose it is possible that Decappa Stubbie has one too.

[jackb]

the '62 Lark dash switches above the ignition switch provide excellent interference when removing it....I think after a little blood, I removed the wiper switch for bloodless access....GL

[Paul Keller]

Additonaly, the "old school" locksmith that made keys for my 63 Hawk said the Stude' lock and key was the same as early Dodges used - If you need a key in a hurry, this is a good reference to know.
Paul TK

[decappastubbie]

Thanks Warren, I will get back out to the shop tomarrow and use your instructions.

Thank you

[decappastubbie]

Thanks StudeRich, I have Warren's instructions and yours to try.

Thanks to all replies.

[decappastubbie]

StudeRich, you get the 25 cent cigar. I finially found the set screw on the bezel and removed the bezel. Man what a rats nest of owner(s) installed wires. I am taking anything out that is not used any more. Considering the price of copper I might just turn a buck or two.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

[StudeRich]

Good, glad that helped the situation some at least.

[RadioRoy]

StudeRich, you get the 25 cent cigar. I finially found the set screw on the bezel and removed the bezel. Man what a rats nest of owner(s) installed wires. I am taking anything out that is not used any more. Considering the price of copper I might just turn a buck or two.

Thanks to everyone who replied.

It's amazing how a mechanic can be so good with, well... mechanical things, but then be so bad with wiring and electrical things.

[GinettaG12P]

You have one of Studebaker of California's (now S.I.) early attempt at a replacement Switch & Switch Bezel. I should know, I sold dozens of them when I was the Parts guy there in Calif.

They used a Standard Dodge Truck Screw-on knurl nut type Ignition Switch and Lock, and then threw away the knurl nut and replaced it with an Ingvar Vic, machined Aluminum Bezel that uses a tiny Allen wrench to clock and tighten it, it's a pita to install, but cheaper than the newer "real deal" Original Repro setup. This cheaper one is still available as 800840.

I suppose it is possible that Decappa Stubbie has one too.

What's the secret for getting an Allen wrench on the setscrew to clock and tighten the replacement ignition switch?