Engine: Oil Pan Removal.

[TDC71]

Looking to replace my pan gasket and rear main on my new to me 58 Commander with a 259. Wanting to know
if the pan can be removed in car by pulling the front exhaust, turning the bell crank torwards the driver side and unbolting the engine mounts. It looks like I may have just enough room. But I want some been there done that info. Todd

[dpson]

It's been a while since I've done this, but as I recall you need to disconnect the wire and pull the starter, disconnect the two inner tie rod ends, remove the steering arm at the front pivot pin and remove the pivot pin and housing. Watch out for the pivot pin grease fitting which also needs to be removed to allow the pivot pin to drop down. My advice is that in removing the exhaust crossover pipe, unless it's fairly new, you should count on replacing it. You shouldn't need to touch the engine mounts.

[TDC71]

Thank you very much Dan.

[jackb]

.....some of us, having done this many times might suggest that this is a good time to take care of several things that are most important to your car/engine......That is to pull the engine for: freeze plugs for block cleaning, oil leaks front and back and pan, center bellcrank bushings, and clean exhaust piping. It is easier to do these things on the engine stand, and with great piece of mind. Your toughest project here will be sealing/installing the pan gaskets under the car.......very trying and if unlucky .. profound leaks which brings you back to the start again...

[dpson]

I agree with Jack! If you decide to do the work with the engine in the car you might also want to pull a couple rod bearing caps to visually inspect the condition of the bearings. You will need to pull the rear main bearing cap to replace the rear main seal and loosen the other caps in order to slide the upper rear main seal around the crankshaft and you might as well have a look at these while your at it. The oil pan is a PIA to get back in place mainly due to the rear pan seal which is a fairly thick piece of cork (or some modern equivalent). It won't like being pressed into place and I've used a floor jack to gently jack the pan up into place. You may also want to buy a few longer pan bolts which can help pull/hold the pan in place while you compress the front and rear seals. If you don't remove the front timing cover you will also need to trim the oil pan gasket to fit properly (if you do a search there should be some recent threads on this). If you don't have a Studebaker Service Manual you should get one as it will tell you how to remove and replace things. Anyway I hope that helps.

[TDC71]

Thanks guys. I've got the pan down and rear crank cap off. Going to loosen the rest of the main caps to give me some slack. Please dont flame me........... I am working on the car on my lift. I own an auto repair shop so it is one of the tools a shop should have. Makes jobs like this alot easier. Props to all of you who did it on their back...........
Thats some hardcore mechanicing.

[52 Ragtop]

Well then, with the correct tools, it makes it a LOT easier! A lift will be one of my next "investments"

Jim

[TDC71]

Got her all buttoned up. No leaks!!! That 4 piece cork gasket is a frickn pain in the but. Especially that back piece. Zipped tied both end pieces overnight in a circle so they would stay in a natural curve. It helped alot especially on that back piece. That thing is like a cork 4x4.
Thank you for the pointers.