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  • What would YOU do?

    I have a hawk six automatic. It runs good, 125 compression, no smoke no noises, and has about 30k miles on a "near major overhaul". However, oil pressure is less then desired at hot idle. At hot idle I have about 5 psi, with 15-40 oil and one can of STP. Driving while hot I have about 20-25 lbs. Cold I have 40-60 and when hot, the oil gauge could be used as a tachometer!

    I suspect that when the engine was overhauled, the lifters were overlooked, since everything else is okay on the engine.

    Anyways, I was adding up the cost to rebuild the flathead six and it's shocking! I'd have to have most the machining done at northwestern auto in Grand Rapids, 100 miles from me as nobody want's to get involved in a flathead locally. All the prior flatheads I rebuilt I got away without too much machining. I'd have about $1000-$1500 in doing the engine well....which got me to thinking....

    I have a couple nice 289 or 259 automatic combos that I could put in (and I have several 60-61 V8hawk rot bucket parts cars), but I'm not sure it's worth it, especially on a hawk six.

    If this was your car what would you do?

    A) would you modify the car and have a mutt with a 259/289 in it?

    B) or would you stay with the flathead six?

    C)Or would you sell it and go buy a V8 hawk and pass on the I guess sorta scarce flight hawk to somebody else?

    BTW, does anyone have a NOS 185 shortblock around? I'd sure in the hell could use one.

  • #2
    Just drive it. The way you describe that engine, it seems identical to the 170 in my truck. When it gets hot, the oil pressure guage does nearly the exact same thing. As best as I can tell, it's been driven probably 15,000 miles like this, and the only problem that it's had is the timing gear. (A few teeth came off). Yes, I know it's not the best thing to be desired, but it works OK for what it is.

    If it was my car and in your situation, I'd be tempted to stick the V8 in it. That's just because a Hawk needs a V8.

    I think SASCO still has NOS Champ short blocks. Not sure if they're 170 or 185 though.

    Matthew Burnette
    '59 Scotsman
    '63 Daytona
    Hazlehurst, GA


    Cruising the Proving Ground Test Track

    Comment


    • #3
      Just drive it. The way you describe that engine, it seems identical to the 170 in my truck. When it gets hot, the oil pressure guage does nearly the exact same thing. As best as I can tell, it's been driven probably 15,000 miles like this, and the only problem that it's had is the timing gear. (A few teeth came off). Yes, I know it's not the best thing to be desired, but it works OK for what it is.

      If it was my car and in your situation, I'd be tempted to stick the V8 in it. That's just because a Hawk needs a V8.

      I think SASCO still has NOS Champ short blocks. Not sure if they're 170 or 185 though.

      Matthew Burnette
      '59 Scotsman
      '63 Daytona
      Hazlehurst, GA


      Cruising the Proving Ground Test Track

      Comment


      • #4
        As Matt said, drive it. If you really feel the need to get into the engine, keep it simple. You can do everything the machine shop does as far as measuring your clearences. If you find there are a few areas where clearances are too large, then take it in and get just what needs to be done. An overhaul kit isn't that expensive. If this engine was just recently rebuilt, the rings and bearings might be able to be left alone.

        ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        Tom - Valrico, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

        Tom - Bradenton, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

        Comment


        • #5
          As Matt said, drive it. If you really feel the need to get into the engine, keep it simple. You can do everything the machine shop does as far as measuring your clearences. If you find there are a few areas where clearances are too large, then take it in and get just what needs to be done. An overhaul kit isn't that expensive. If this engine was just recently rebuilt, the rings and bearings might be able to be left alone.

          ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
          Tom - Valrico, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

          Tom - Bradenton, FL

          1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
          1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

          Comment


          • #6
            quote:Originally posted by 54-61-62

            I have a 56 flight hawk six automatic. It runs good, 125 compression, no smoke no noises, and has about 30k miles on a "near major overhaul". However, oil pressure is less then desired at hot idle. At hot idle I have about 5 psi, with 15-40 oil and one can of STP. Driving while hot I have about 20-25 lbs. Cold I have 40-60 and when hot, the oil gauge could be used as a tachometer!

            I suspect that when the engine was overhauled, the lifters were overlooked, since everything else is okay on the engine.

            Anyways, I was adding up the cost to rebuild the flathead six and it's shocking! I'd have to have most the machining done at northwestern auto in Grand Rapids, 100 miles from me as nobody want's to get involved in a flathead locally. All the prior flatheads I rebuilt I got away without too much machining. I'd have about $1000-$1500 in doing the engine well....which got me to thinking....

            I have a couple nice 289 or 259 automatic combos that I could put in (and I have several 60-61 V8hawk rot bucket parts cars), but I'm not sure it's worth it, especially on a flight hawk six.

            If this was your car what would you do?

            A) would you modify the car and have a mutt with a 259/289 in it?

            B) or would you stay with the flathead six?

            C)Or would you sell it and go buy a V8 hawk and pass on the I guess sorta scarce flight hawk to somebody else?

            BTW, does anyone have a NOS 185 shortblock around? I'd sure in the hell could use one.
            Is this car being used as a daily driver, or a 'hobby/show' car?

            Either way, I agree with Matt - drive it! Keep a check on the oil pressure, but don't agonize over it.

            SASCO still has '59-60 170 fitted blocks (blocks with pistons), but then you would loose a little power/torque. You could use your 185 crank in the 170 block, but then you would need a set of standard 185 pistons. Also, unless you go to SASCO and hand-pick the block, you may get one that has the valve seats buggered up, which would mean installing hardened seats. More money. Like you say, maybe someone has a NOS 185 short block stashed away that you could get a good deal on, this would probably be the cheapest way out if you must rebuild. But, the cheapest by far is just to drive it.

            If you have the V8s and all the other parts (linkages, mounts, radiator, V8 brakes, etc, etc) that would be a way to go, but think about the small stuff you might have to purchase - motor mounts, radiator hoses, heater hoses, exhaust, etc. Even this sucks up money unless you have all those parts on hand.

            Just drive it!

            Paul

            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
            Paul
            Winston-Salem, NC
            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
            Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by 54-61-62

              I have a 56 flight hawk six automatic. It runs good, 125 compression, no smoke no noises, and has about 30k miles on a "near major overhaul". However, oil pressure is less then desired at hot idle. At hot idle I have about 5 psi, with 15-40 oil and one can of STP. Driving while hot I have about 20-25 lbs. Cold I have 40-60 and when hot, the oil gauge could be used as a tachometer!

              I suspect that when the engine was overhauled, the lifters were overlooked, since everything else is okay on the engine.

              Anyways, I was adding up the cost to rebuild the flathead six and it's shocking! I'd have to have most the machining done at northwestern auto in Grand Rapids, 100 miles from me as nobody want's to get involved in a flathead locally. All the prior flatheads I rebuilt I got away without too much machining. I'd have about $1000-$1500 in doing the engine well....which got me to thinking....

              I have a couple nice 289 or 259 automatic combos that I could put in (and I have several 60-61 V8hawk rot bucket parts cars), but I'm not sure it's worth it, especially on a flight hawk six.

              If this was your car what would you do?

              A) would you modify the car and have a mutt with a 259/289 in it?

              B) or would you stay with the flathead six?

              C)Or would you sell it and go buy a V8 hawk and pass on the I guess sorta scarce flight hawk to somebody else?

              BTW, does anyone have a NOS 185 shortblock around? I'd sure in the hell could use one.
              Is this car being used as a daily driver, or a 'hobby/show' car?

              Either way, I agree with Matt - drive it! Keep a check on the oil pressure, but don't agonize over it.

              SASCO still has '59-60 170 fitted blocks (blocks with pistons), but then you would loose a little power/torque. You could use your 185 crank in the 170 block, but then you would need a set of standard 185 pistons. Also, unless you go to SASCO and hand-pick the block, you may get one that has the valve seats buggered up, which would mean installing hardened seats. More money. Like you say, maybe someone has a NOS 185 short block stashed away that you could get a good deal on, this would probably be the cheapest way out if you must rebuild. But, the cheapest by far is just to drive it.

              If you have the V8s and all the other parts (linkages, mounts, radiator, V8 brakes, etc, etc) that would be a way to go, but think about the small stuff you might have to purchase - motor mounts, radiator hoses, heater hoses, exhaust, etc. Even this sucks up money unless you have all those parts on hand.

              Just drive it!

              Paul

              Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html
              Paul
              Winston-Salem, NC
              Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
              Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark

              Comment


              • #8
                I know a gentleman who has a stude truck that shows "0" oil pressure at idle. Twenty # hot and running, and he tows with it. No problems.

                I know that some of the racers with the new 4 cylinder engines that run 7 to 10 lbs. hot and racing. With the newer oils, high oil pressure may not be as big a deal as it used to be.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I know a gentleman who has a stude truck that shows "0" oil pressure at idle. Twenty # hot and running, and he tows with it. No problems.

                  I know that some of the racers with the new 4 cylinder engines that run 7 to 10 lbs. hot and racing. With the newer oils, high oil pressure may not be as big a deal as it used to be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    More power...freshen up the 289 and put it in during the winter months.

                    Mike

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      More power...freshen up the 289 and put it in during the winter months.

                      Mike

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        My 52 with the 64 R1 engine had very little oil pressure when it was hot also and I ignored it with disastrous results! I'm just saying be careful and keep an eye on it.

                        Leonard Shepherd


                        Comment


                        • #13
                          My 52 with the 64 R1 engine had very little oil pressure when it was hot also and I ignored it with disastrous results! I'm just saying be careful and keep an eye on it.

                          Leonard Shepherd


                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Rare and unusual vehicle. I wouldn't yank the six. Drive it!


                            [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                            Clark in San Diego
                            '63 F2/Lark Standard

                            The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

                            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Rare and unusual vehicle. I wouldn't yank the six. Drive it!


                              [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                              Clark in San Diego
                              '63 F2/Lark Standard

                              The Official Website of the San Diego Chapter of the Studebaker Drivers Club. Serving San Diego County

                              Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                              Comment

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