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Stromberg WW Driveability Issue

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  • Fuel System: Stromberg WW Driveability Issue

    The 63 289 Stromberg 2-bbl was on the engine/car when purchased nine years ago. Do not recall any particular issues at that time (but, there were many other prob's that were present) A couple years later the 2-bbl was replaced w/ a Carter four bbl and after solving several problems ran very well. The four bbl has been now removed to a replacement engine and the Stromberg re-installed - Since then the following situation has occurred:

    The car surges/bucks at low speed and light throttle (30-45 mph). It idles fine, accelerates fine and runs very well at higher speeds (50mph plus).

    The carb has be disassembled (including main jets and tubes), cleaned w/ carb cleaner (on the third can of spray) and blown out w/ air - This is the third time it has gone thru' this process - No change in performance.

    Any suggestions as to what I am missing?
    Paul TK

  • #2
    Possibly either the power piston or the power jet is stuck and the engine isn't getting any transition fuel.
    Restorations by Skip Towne

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Paul Keller View Post
      /Cut/The carb has be disassembled (including main jets and tubes), cleaned w/ carb cleaner (on the third can of spray) and blown out w/ air - This is the third time it has gone thru' this process - No change in performance.
      Any suggestions as to what I am missing?Paul TK
      It might just be me, but I would never trust a "Spray Can" of Carb. Cleaner to do the job.
      The ONLY way to do it right is to submerge it in Carb. Cleaner in a 1 Gallon Can for 2 Brl. or 5 Gallon Can for 4 Brl.

      I know it can cost as much as 1/3 or more of the cost of a New Edelbrock AFB Clone Carb. but sometimes you just have to suck it up, depending on what your goals are. Or have someone else do it.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        Paul,

        I would have to agree with Richard about the cleaning process. But I might go one step further. I had a carb off a Farmall tractor that was not working properly - even after two trips through a dip can carburetor cleaner. Took it to a buddy who had a parts cleaner that had and agitator in it. That did the trick. Did the same thing with the carb off my '60 Lark and the finished cleanliness was pretty impressive...

        Last edited by 62champ; 12-20-2013, 05:02 PM.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the insights - The power valve is free, but did not consider the piston (hanging from the top cover) . Otherwise, will probably just "live with it" for the next month or two (??) until the rebuilt mill is installed.

          '62CHAMP' - For future reference, what is a cleaner "adjudicator"/ Have never been professionally involved w/ engines, but over the (too) many years have not heard that term.

          Thanks again, Paul TK

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          • #6
            To start with - I guess I could have put the letters in the word where they needed to be - agitator... auto correct can come back to bite ya.

            Basically it was a ten gallon barrel that was full of parts cleaner. On the lid there was an air hose hook up, timer and below the lid there was a basket hanging on a metal rod. Dump the parts in the basket, hook up the air, set the timer and the mechanism would slowly slosh the basket back and forth inside the cleaner. Think one could set it for up to three hours. Carburetor above was in for between two and three... Sorry for the confusion.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the clarification - Actually, had forgotten about parts cleaner agitators - Have been told they improve cleaning a lot.
              Paul TK

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              • #8
                I just got my 62 Hawk a few months ago and had a terrible surging problem. I had a competely broken driver side motor mount. I also have the 2 bbl Stromberg WW and I found this older post as I have a stalling problem. At ~ 5 minutes of run time the car just acts like it is running out of gas and dies. It is barely at operating temp and the t-stat has not even opened. New Fuel pump, new dist. new coil, new wires, new plugs new filter, re-routed the fuel line from pump to carb?

                Where to turn next. Carb spray? remove it and soak it? Get it rebuilt?

                Jim
                Studebaker1962

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                • #9
                  Did we already mention in another post Jim, to remove the Gas Cap to see if you may have the wrong Cap, a Sealed type gas Cap on there?
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                  SDC Member Since 1967

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                  • #10
                    Yes Rich, You sent me a new vented gas cap. No efffect. Forgot to mention that. From cold start the car just gasps and dies within 5 minutes. You can pump the throttle to prolong the carb gasping and then the car dies. You can re-start and it will run 3 - 5 seconds and dies. I assume tomorrow morrning when stone cold it will again run for five minutes and die.

                    Jim
                    Studebaker1962

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                    • #11
                      So this is exactly the same condition you had before I sent the Rebuilt Carter Fuel Pump, and it is installed now?
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                      SDC Member Since 1967

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sounds like the choke may be coming off too soon.
                        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                        • #13
                          Roy:

                          The choke fully opens but not to fast in my opinion. The intake is warm, but the t-stat had not opened yet when the she quits. This kinda dispells a vapor lock condition that the engine is not that hot yet. I am now leaning to get the carb rebuilt.

                          Rich: Yes, no change the engine quiting with your new rebuilt fuel pump.

                          Opinions? The Carb is about the only thing left. There is shop in Daytona that claims that they rebuild your carb to a better than new condition. Opnion on this option? Or should I mail it to one of Stude Vendors?

                          Jim
                          Last edited by Studebaker1962; 04-05-2014, 05:12 PM.
                          Studebaker1962

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                          • #14
                            Been thinking about the choke opening too soon. It was 80's today in Florida, even in the garage. I don't think that's the problem

                            I hate to keep throwing money at this problem. But it's gotta be the carb. Look at the list of things I have done already. I have had this car for 4 months now, driven it 2 miles total and towed it for one of those those 2 miles. I guess it wouldn't hurt to get the carb re-built for good measure. It's been opened up before based on screw slot dings.

                            Jim
                            Studebaker1962

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                            • #15
                              If you are thinking about having the carb rebuilt by Daytona Performance in New Symerna (?) Beach, I highly recommend them. Your carb will come back looking so good you will hate to put it on the engine. I had them rebuild both a Stromberg and a WCFB.
                              Peter Bishop

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