Fuel System: 232 Engine - Just Messin'

[Nugene]

Really, I'm just messin' as this time; don't know how all this will play out. However, I want to get some ATF and diesel fuel into the cylinders of a 51 V8 engine. And, I want to know more.

I've removed most of the small "removable objects" from under the hood, have pressure washed, then air "dried", then sprayed everything with diesel fuel. Now I want to fill the cylinder cavities.

Question 1: When I removed the intake manifold, I noticed 5 large "rectangular slots" going to each of the heads. Okay, 4 intake valves on each side - but why the 5th and center slot?

Question 2: If I fill the slots with diesel fuel, will the fuel fill the cylinder cavity - for those cylinders with intake valves open or even partially open?

Question 3: Do I have to fill at the plugs to be certain?

Going to try and post a photo so y'all can see what I'm trying to talk about.

[62champ]

The fifth hole is the exhaust cross-over.

There may be a a cylinder or two where it will not only flow in, but it might also have some with both exhuast and intake are open, so it will fill till it flows out the exhaust manifold.

Good luck

[allstateguy]

you'll need to put the "break'r'loose" fluid in through the spark plug holes. With the rocker's off, all the valves are closed, so no diesel will go in (but none will come out either). This assumes none of the valves are stuck open due to the guides/stems growing together.

[Nugene]

The fifth hole is the exhaust cross-over.

snip
Good luck

Okay, so what is an exhaust cross-over? What is it's purpose? What does it accomplish? I haven't seen a "cross-over" on any of my 4 cyl flat head tractor engines, so it must be related to 2 heads on an 8?

[62champ]

The exhaust cross-over allows exhaust to cross through the intake to the other head and then through the exhaust system. This is done by a heat riser that is located on the right side exhaust header before the down-pipe and is closed when cold. When the heat riser valve opens, the exhaust on that side will flow through the down-pipe on that side. This cross flow does two things: 1 - heats up the choke tube so the automatic choke will release after warming up, and 2 - heats the bottom of the intake and carburetor to prevent icing.

Your flat-head has intake and exhaust cast or bolted together for the same effect.

There are probably some other things that others will point out.

[Nugene]

Thanks. She's a junker a brother gave to me after letting her sit for 30 years. Probably will tear her apart as I feel like it then sell her to the junk man. I'm an old man with time on his hands who needs to tinker with things a bit. She's just another "tinker toy" for me.

[Bob Andrews]

Your flat-head has intake and exhaust cast or bolted together for the same effect.

The OP's engine is a 232, not a flathead.

[Flashback]

Since you were able to post the engine picture, could you post some of the car. It looks unmolested. Somebody might like to "save" it if you are going to scrap anyway. I am sure they would give you another engine to "tinker" with. Whatcha think?

[StudeDave57]

The OP's engine is a 232, not a flathead.

Yes, the topic started there, but in post number five the OP said~

I haven't seen a "cross-over" on any of my 4 cyl flat head tractor engines, so it must be related to 2 heads on an 8?

StudeDave '57

[Nugene]

Since you were able to post the engine picture, could you post some of the car. It looks unmolested. Somebody might like to "save" it if you are going to scrap anyway. I am sure they would give you another engine to "tinker" with. Whatcha think?

I started tinkering about a month ago since I was basically caught up with my tractors - primary hobby. Have no clue as to where my tinkering with the Stude will take me - but I keep saying scrap to keep thoughts in check. I do hope to take the Stude down to the frame by next summer as I dissect the car piece-by-piece.

Engine stuck and probably shot at about 108,000 or so. Fenders, doors rusted at bottoms - bad. Hood and trunk lid rusted thru at closing edges. Interior trash and I am stripping to metal. Sheet metal rust visible from inside roof, etc. Electrical wiring shot. Genny, distr, rusting away. No useable glass on car. Floor boards rusted badly around edges. Transmission questionable. Brakes need more than fluid. And on, and on, and on. Here's a couple of photos I hope.

[Flashback]

I asked -- You delivered. Thanks for the photos (and more as you go, LOL ) HAVE FUN

[hawk58man]

Nugene Howdy, I think you can save this.This is one of the first V8 in a Studebaker. By looking at your photos and thanks for sending some,I believe it will be a "Runner" . There will be more "Studebaker People" putting there 2 cents worth in. But a lot of us have had Studedbaker cars and trucks in worse conditions then yours and "Saved Her"! All sheet metal is being remanufactured,engine rebuild parts readily available, glass is flat and being remanufactured, new wiring harness's made available, interior upholstery kits on hand. Everything that you would need , to get her running, and put back on the street were that 1951 Studebaker belongs. If you decide not to keep her,please give the Studebaker folks on this forum a heads up that the 1951 Studebaker is For Sale. Thanks..

[StudeRich]

Whoa! It's not JUST a '51 Commander V8 4 Door, it's a Long Wheelbase, semi-Lemo, Luxury, Land Cruiser!

[Nugene]

Yes, it's a Land Cruiser. But, the only things that have been cruising in her since '83 have been birds, squirrels, etc. Been parked down at our family's "old place" along with couple other "parts" cars brother keeps down there. He's the "Studebaker feller" in the family; although my first car was a 1950 Studebaker, Champion probably, in 1961.

Anyway, I wanted something else to do and I could see lots of time in carefully taking this thing apart and trying to put her in a "holding condition" in pieces until I made up my mind. I'm cleaning the loose rust and sanding and grinding a bit, then spraying a cheap "rusty metal primer" on the sheet metal for now. (I've tested a bit and seems that the primer I'm using can be sanded off rather easily - so hoping not to do any damage in the event I or someone moves ahead with her in the years to come.)

[Mrs K Corbin]

Use a primer/sealer or your sanding will be for naught!