Wheels / Tires: Please help with rim problem...

[DSpreeman]

I've tried the search function....

750-17

Where can I purchase one piece rims for my M15a?
Having a hard time finding someone to mount tires.

i would like to keep the stock look.

Can I mount them my self? I'm not scared....

Can I weld the rim together, then mount them?

I can't be the only one with this problem.


MANY THANKS!

additional:
Can I use I slightly narrower tire on these rims....
650-17?

[Mrs K Corbin]

Reminds me of old Military wheels, we mounted ours ourselves, it's only dangerous when you start putting air in, unless you nail yourself with the tire iron...

When putting air in one of these rims, make DANG sure the rim-clamp is seated properly, then while putting air in, use one of those air nozzles that you can clamp on and walk away.....

set your air pressure for what you think you need on the guage before starting and;;;;;


Get AWAY from it.... Stay away for quite a while while it seats... Better yet, use a cage while your at it....


It's a pain in the A$$ to change the tire, but it can be done, but outright dangerous to put air in it afterwards, but it can be done.
Just NEVER while you're in the vacinity....
Kapishe?

Talk to a Semi-Truck shop, some of those guys can.....

[bezhawk]

Find some aluminum Alcoa wheels like on a small motor home. If you cant find the bolt pattern....it's aluminum, it can be welded up and redrilled to fit your rig. Paint 'em red if you don't like the look.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Have you tried over at Studebaker Truck Talk?

[PackardV8]

Having a hard time finding someone to mount tires

You're looking for love in all the wrong places.

Go to a farm tire store or a truck tire store. They still have customers with two-piece wheels.

Can I weld the rim together, then mount them?

No, not ever.

Can I mount them my self? I'm not scared....

Yes, of course. The Studebaker Truck Shop Manual has an extensive how-to section.

My recommendation, have the wheels sandblasted and powdercoated. They'll look great and last forever.

jack vines

[rockne10]

Not related but, just a note to M16/M15 owners. If you find yourself in need of a radiator, a friend of mine had one recored before he realized it would not fit his M5. He wants $200 plus shipping or will deliver free to York. Let me know if you would like his contact information.

[GEEMAC]

You might check out Intl.Trucks. their are a few yrs that fit the m15a trucks. Mac

[gordr]

On mounting tires on split rims: It will be hard work. Getting the old tire off is the hardest part. You need a "tire axe" to hammer the bead down. Or else resort to cutting up the tire with a Skil saw or reciprocating saw, and grinding through the bead from the backside. BTDT.

Once the old tire is off, sandblast the wheel, and inspect the removable rim and locking ring for cracks or damage. Small dents and divots that could interfere with the seating of the lock ring can be ground smooth. Major damage or cracks should condemn the wheel.

Prime and paint the wheel parts while apart. Mounting the new tires is pretty easy. Put the tube in the tire, followed by the flap (rim liner), and ensure that the valve stem will be pointing the right direction on the finished wheel (important). Then you can drop the tire/tube/liner assembly onto the wheel, making sure the valve stem is fed through the hole for it on the wheel. Follow with the removable rim, and then the lock ring. Ideally, these parts should all assemble with just hand pressure.

Then you put the entire wheel assembly into an inflation cage before adding any air. If you lack an inflation cage, a couple of loops of 5/16" or stronger chain through a hole in the wheel face, and around the tire, closed by a clevis or locking link, will restrain any flying parts, should the lock ring fail to seat. A loop at 3:00, and a loop at 9:00. Leave a few inches slack in the loops, so the chain doesn't tension up with normal expansion of the tire.

With the chain loops secured, inspect the lock ring, and ensure that it is fully seated, and that the loose rim is properly positioned to come up beneath it, and wedge it in place. That done, take a 20-foot length of airline, with a locking tire chuck on the end, and hook it up to the valve stem, with the source of the line disconnected. Then walk the 20 feet, and connect the line to your air source. You should see the tire expand, and the halves of the rim come together smoothly. If something goes wrong, there could be a loud bang, and debris may fly, but the chains, and the distance will protect your hide. Once the rim appears to be seated, shut off the air, and let air out of the tire, all of it. If the rim did properly seat, it should remain so; if it comes unseated, something wasn't right. Make it right, and try again. Once it stays seated upon deflation, air it up to working pressure, and leave it in the chains for a few hours.

As hobbyists, we have the luxury of time. Time to make the mating surfaces clean and smooth. Time to take the safety precautions. A split-rim wheel that separates on inflation can kill you, and many people have been killed by them, usually as result of taking shortcuts, using ill-fitting or mismatched parts, and not using an inflation cage. The chain restraints are an inferior substitute for an inflation cage, both in terms of convenience and ultimate safety, but I personally feel they are adequate, provided the long hose is also used.

And if you can find a tire shop to do it for you, go for it! But you should still sandblast, inspect, and paint the wheel parts.

Note, that I have been talking about 3-piece wheels here, main wheel with fixed rim, a loose rim, and a locking ring. They are pretty reliable, unless beat to hell, or put together with mis-matched parts. There are also 2-piece rims out there, aka "widow-makers", and the best use for them is as rings for backyard firepits.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Are they split rims?
Or are they slot rims with two notches in the rim and two in the wheel?

Either way... Y'all be careful with your suggestions.
There is real danger in improperly inflating multi piece wheels and rims.
Many deaths and lawsuits over the years.
Bad advice on a forum can lead to misery and litigation.

Seek out correct procedures and advice.
Safety first!
Jeff

[DSpreeman]

Thanks everyone. I'm still listening...

[Stu Duglee]

I have just stripped 2 tires off rims that have an outer locking ring, what do you call these?I chain them in 2 spots then pry the lock ring off (very hard),once the ring is off I drive over them with the truck to break the bead....sometimes I have to run over them a few times to get them loose.Putting new rubber on is easy with a little soap but don't forget to chain them before re-inflation.Gordr's description is very good.

[sals54]

[PackardV8]

Such an apparently obvious and simple process can be a slippery slope.

Just be aware first of all, the centers from 17" split rim wheels won't begin to fit inside modern 17" drop center wheels. They have to be cut down quite a bit. Thus, it's an expensive and not totally satisfactory process.

One of our Studebaker Truck Farmer members did exactly as Sal recommended. When he got them back, the centers had been cut down so much, the distinctive scallops which give Budd wheels their look were almost gone. The STFer said if he were paying the $1200 again, he'd have 18" or 19" wheels used so the original style of the centers could be retained.

The other factor in the conversion I mentioned, modern 17" wheels are 8" wide and there is now so much rubber on the pavement, it is impossible to turn the steering wheel at rest. He was told, "You said you wanted to go modern. Yes, for an additional cost, you could have had the wheels narrowed as well, but then you'd have to pay more for classic truck tires." He's having to now add power steering.

The bottom line for his 17" drop center one-piece wheel conversion - $1200 for the wheels and $1250 for four new tubeless 17" tires mounted and balanced. The quote he's gotten for a power steering conversion is another $1200.

jack vines

[Stu Duglee]

The rims I have on my 56 Transtar are 16" 1 ton dually style with 6 lug pattern.I know of a Stude truck farmer who had new ones made at Stockton but they were $300 each.