When I first considered buying my '64 Daytona I was somewhat shocked at the cost of the rubber seals for the car body. A complete kit was half of what I paid for the car! For those that have the money I'm glad they are available, but they are outside the range of practicality for me. As a frequent visitor to the self serve wrecking yards I have searched for reasonable door/window seal options. Unfortunately most modern cars have rather large, distinctive seals. It took some searching, but the first generation Mazda MPV ('89-'99) has seals that are adaptable. These MPV's are also identifiable by their rear wheel drive configuration.
The MPV front door seal has a molded right angle to match the door corner on the Daytona. Likewise the seating edge also sits into the right angle of the Studebaker window frame. This seating right angle was very hard to find on modern cars. Using 3M "yellow death" weatherstriping glue I simply glued the seal into place cutting it where the original Studebaker seal terminated. If you prefer the very specific way Studebaker sealed at the front edge of the door, these seals should blend in if cut appropriately.
There is enough seal from the MPV you could completely run it around the perimeter of the door. I do not know if this would improve sealing, and frankly, I wasn't looking to re-invent the proverbial wheel. I simply put the excess seal into the channel below the sill plate. It takes a bit more effort to close the door as the MPV seal is slightly larger than the Studebaker seal. But, the seal is very pliable and conforms.
I also used the window seal from the MPV. It fit nicely in the channel without glue. The Studebaker glass seems a bit thicker than the MPV glass and it took a few days for the rubber to conform. I'd also recommend gluing a small piece of thin, flat rubber (say..., 1" long) under the seal where window frame meets the car body. The way the window rises having it stick out slightly enhances the glass to track in the rubber when going upward.
As stated above you need the 1st generation ('89-'99) Mazda MPV seals. Most all these cars had electric windows so they need to be down a few inches before you can remove the window seal. The door seal fits unglued into a channel around the window area and easily slips out. The rest of the seal uses plastic pins that must be carefully removed by stretching out of the holes in the rubber. You will also have to remove the pin for the door stop if you intend to remove the rubber without cutting it. Make sure you get driver/passenger sides for the angles to match. You will need to revese sides to do the rears.
While this rubber is pushing 20 years old it is generally in very good shape. Look for it drying out at the right angle and where it curves downward towards the front. Also look for tears. The good news is I paid $3 each for the window seals and $5 each for the door seals. While I have only completed the front door so far, it will be under $35 to reseal all four doors and windows.
Tom
The MPV front door seal has a molded right angle to match the door corner on the Daytona. Likewise the seating edge also sits into the right angle of the Studebaker window frame. This seating right angle was very hard to find on modern cars. Using 3M "yellow death" weatherstriping glue I simply glued the seal into place cutting it where the original Studebaker seal terminated. If you prefer the very specific way Studebaker sealed at the front edge of the door, these seals should blend in if cut appropriately.
There is enough seal from the MPV you could completely run it around the perimeter of the door. I do not know if this would improve sealing, and frankly, I wasn't looking to re-invent the proverbial wheel. I simply put the excess seal into the channel below the sill plate. It takes a bit more effort to close the door as the MPV seal is slightly larger than the Studebaker seal. But, the seal is very pliable and conforms.
I also used the window seal from the MPV. It fit nicely in the channel without glue. The Studebaker glass seems a bit thicker than the MPV glass and it took a few days for the rubber to conform. I'd also recommend gluing a small piece of thin, flat rubber (say..., 1" long) under the seal where window frame meets the car body. The way the window rises having it stick out slightly enhances the glass to track in the rubber when going upward.
As stated above you need the 1st generation ('89-'99) Mazda MPV seals. Most all these cars had electric windows so they need to be down a few inches before you can remove the window seal. The door seal fits unglued into a channel around the window area and easily slips out. The rest of the seal uses plastic pins that must be carefully removed by stretching out of the holes in the rubber. You will also have to remove the pin for the door stop if you intend to remove the rubber without cutting it. Make sure you get driver/passenger sides for the angles to match. You will need to revese sides to do the rears.
While this rubber is pushing 20 years old it is generally in very good shape. Look for it drying out at the right angle and where it curves downward towards the front. Also look for tears. The good news is I paid $3 each for the window seals and $5 each for the door seals. While I have only completed the front door so far, it will be under $35 to reseal all four doors and windows.
Tom
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