can the hb 1554247 for 63 avantis be heated to help with installation. mine is a tight fit, will not go. any suggestions. tks chas.
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Originally posted by charlotte1963 View Post
Maybe 200 degrees in the over would be safe, but you don't want to melt the rubber. BTW, never had a problem using a pusher tool at room temperature, it's supposed to be tight.JDP Maryland -
thanks for ur reply. how to get a pusher tool. this bolt that holds the hb in place is not a normal size. tried to find a longer bolt to get it started to no avail. tksComment
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Give Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker a call. He has the tool that you need.Comment
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did the damper come off that same crank ?
It is probably not a slip fit, or even a light "drive" fit.
Before assembling with the proper tool, I would deburr the crank snout, especially the chamfer on the very end. Also the damper bore and lead-in chamfers.
Does the damper have a slip fit sized counterbore to help start the damper on the crank straight and true?
If putting together mismatched parts I measure the damper bore and crank.
Back in the 80s some Chevy dampers came right from the factory with a bore smaller than recommended. There were so many we got in the habit of measuring any we assembled.
If the fit was going to be tighter than 0.002 inch or so, onto the Sunnen hone it would go.
Damper retention has evolved, from the press-fit only of the original SBC, thru the combined press-fit with end clamp of the SBC and BBC of the 70s, to the slip fit with heavy end clamp from high damper bolt torque very typical of my "modern" cars.
What is always important is that the damper hub be firmly locked to the crank snout. Keys and pins subjected to constant wiggling (which everything on the crank nose and rear flange must endure) will slaughter themselves and the components they join without positive locking preventing micro motion.
Last edited by Dan Timberlake; 10-31-2013, 10:49 AM.Comment
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