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  • Body / Glass: Attaching pot metal parts

    Several/many of my pot metal trim parts have damaged mounting points. For fear of causing further damage I am considering alternatives such as using epoxy to attach "T" nuts for attachment. Are there any other ideas?

  • #2
    I use clear silicone seal, also called RTV.

    Clean/dry the surfaces and put on a blob wherever there is an attachment point and tape the piece to the car with easy to remove blue masking tape. Let it sit overnight or even 24 hours if you can.

    Check it frequently at first to make sure it does not move out of position.

    After removing the tape, pick any RTV that has oozed out off with a tooth pick. Works great and lasts as long as you own the car. Can still be removed with a plastic putty knife later.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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    • #3
      For most trim pieces I use a thin double sided tape. If you get tape designed for exterior body work it will last for years. I have had personal experience where a part that I put on 15 years before, on an every day use car, could not be easily removed.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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      • #4
        I have drilled shallow holes where a stud usta be and then epoxied a threaded replacement one. Works in some cases where you have room to install a nut. Lotsa pot metal trim pieces are concave enough on the underside to allow the use of enough epoxy so as to have a firm bond. You will know what suits your dilemma best. cheers jimmijim
        sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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        • #5
          What Gary said in Post #3.

          I attached two of the script pieces on my 1956 Packard Clipper with premium 3M double-sided molding tape 20 years ago and they are still stuck fast to this day, after dozens of washings and such.

          However, I feel they could be removed easily if needed and not have damaged the paint, as might epoxy adhesives. BP
          We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

          G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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          • #6
            In the glazing industry there are a variety of double sided stickey tapes/foams for a variety of applications, GOOGLE glazing tapes/foams

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            • #7
              I have used both double sided tape and RTV sealant on several cars through my years, both with great results. In fact, in a genius maneuver, I recently knocked the R off the back of the Lark. Since "S T U D E B A K E :" doesn't look good on the back of a deck lid, I cleaned the parts off, put on some RTV, and my R was back where it was supposed to be. It's stuck really good. In fact, so good that I worry about how I'll get it off when i repaint in a year or two.
              '63 Lark Custom, 259 v8, auto, child seat

              "Your friendly neighborhood Studebaker evangelist"

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              • #8
                Larger items (trunk handles, fender spears, hood ornaments) usually had studs screwed in to them. If the threaded holes have deteriorated you can still JB-Weld new studs in place. Then just install with new nuts.
                Brad Johnson,
                SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                '56 Sky Hawk in process

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