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David Conwill
10-14-2013, 09:54 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1950s/1950%20Studebaker%20Champion/null_zpsfd250029.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1950s/1950%20Studebaker%20Champion/null_zps6245340c.jpg


As I noted in the “introductions” thread, I recently became the proud owner of a 1950 Studebaker Champion Regal Deluxe. As purchased, it was wearing some plastic “chrome” wheel covers from Walmart or Autozone. Not my style.


It came with the full-disc wheelcovers in the trunk, but I’m guessing that the reason they weren’t on the car is that they won’t stay on with the radial tires. I’ve had similar experiences on ‘60s cars.


I’m more of a dog-dish man myself, anyway. I’ve gone through the eBay listings a couple times and nothing is jumping out at me however. Does anyone have a good picture of what the 1950 center cap looks like up close?


Thanks for any help!

41 Frank
10-14-2013, 10:05 AM
The early 1950 hub caps are available from Studebaker International reproduction for $75.00 a pc, the late 1950 caps for $50.00 a pc. You will need the retainer clips as well. If you do not have their catalog you can view it on line with pictures.

David Conwill
10-14-2013, 10:07 AM
Wow, thanks 41 Frank! My car has painted headlight rings, so I assume its early, but is there any way to tell from the numbers?

Deaf Mute
10-14-2013, 10:17 AM
Best thing top do with a new purchase is to purchase a build sheet. The Studebaker National Museum can supply you with one... it has lots of neat info on it (even though it CAN contain errors).

41 Frank
10-14-2013, 10:19 AM
Someone here will chime in with that production info, I do not have that. Some bare bones Champion models were produced with painted headlight rings.

Wow, thanks 41 Frank! My car has painted headlight rings, so I assume its early, but is there any way to tell from the numbers?

David Conwill
10-14-2013, 10:46 AM
Best thing top do with a new purchase is to purchase a build sheet. The Studebaker National Museum can supply you with one... it has lots of neat info on it (even though it CAN contain errors).


Wow, I didn't know you could get such a thing. I definitely would like to know how my car was originally built.


Some bare bones Champion models were produced with painted headlight rings.

According to my Standard Catalog of American Cars the “F5" in my body number indicates the car is a Regal Deluxe, so I’m assuming either it is an early car or someone replaced the headlight rings.


Or the Standard Catalog is wrong. I’ve encountered that before too.

ST2DE5
10-14-2013, 11:04 AM
My 010G F5 came with chrome headlight rings.

Studebaker Wheel
10-14-2013, 02:02 PM
For the record the headlight rims were changed from painted to chrome at Champion serial G547936 and Commander 4427984 on or about Jan 25, 1950. The chrome rims were available for retrofit on cars of previous production at a list of $3.50 and $4.63 respectively.

I had the small Champion wheel covers (hub caps), part #524856, reproduced in year 2000. When they sold out I sold the tooling to Ed Reynolds at Studebaker International who, as mentioned, has them available. Re the hub cap clips, Studebaker changed the clips from the riveted style to the spring steel press-in type in Jan 1950 at serial #G542601 (Champion) and serial 4428475 (Commander). The new clips part #526646 were held in place by spring tension and are supposed to be more reliable in holding the caps in place.

28525

David Conwill
10-14-2013, 02:10 PM
Thanks, Mr. Quinn. It appears I have an early car, as mine is G-53266. I requested a production order from the museum today, so I guess I'll know some more details in four to six weeks!

Studebaker Wheel
10-14-2013, 02:14 PM
Thanks, Mr. Quinn. It appears I have an early car, as mine is G-53266. I requested a production order from the museum today, so I guess I'll know some more details in four to six weeks!

David, I believe you are missing a digit from the serial number. They would all be six digit.

David Conwill
10-14-2013, 03:17 PM
You are right, I left out a digit in the middle. It should be G-532566.

Unfortunately, this means I gave the museum the wrong SN also, so I'll need to call them back and correct my order.

Thanks for pointing that out!

David Conwill
10-22-2013, 08:51 AM
I got my clips from Studebaker International last night. I test fit a few hubcaps I had lying around and discovered this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1950s/1950%20Studebaker%20Champion/null_zps38322416.jpg

The hubcap is a standard 10 1/8" cap from a 1961 or '62 Ford Galaxie. Based on how well it fits, I ordered up a set of Mr. Gasket Baby Moon hubcaps from eBay (PN 4580 and available from Summit and Autzone also). They should be here in a few days. I'll post pictures once they're on.

Now I'm itching for wide whitewall bias plies next spring!

Sam Ensley
10-22-2013, 11:32 AM
That is a good-looking car. Does the interior look as good as the outside? A set of trim rings would look good on the wheels, but the baby moons will look great by themselves. Please, post more pictures. I am having post-partum blues today. I just sold my 1950 Star Light coupe.

David Conwill
10-22-2013, 11:52 AM
That is a good-looking car. Does the interior look as good as the outside? A set of trim rings would look good on the wheels, but the baby moons will look great by themselves. Please, post more pictures. I am having post-partum blues today. I just sold my 1950 Star Light coupe.

Thanks for the kind words, Sam. Here's my favorite picture so far:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1950s/1950%20Studebaker%20Champion/iPhone10152013008_zps6f64cd6b.jpg

When I get the baby moons on, I'll take some more pictures. The interior is very comfy, clean and fresh, although I don't believe it's correct. It is a gray-and-maroon mouse fur that reminds me of our '87 GMC Safari Van.

When it wears out, I'll look into more authentic upholstery. At least everything is stock aside from the fabric.

StudeRich
10-22-2013, 11:54 AM
You may want to "re-think" the Bias Ply Tires plan! You will find that the Coker (or Diamond Back) Radial Wide Whites will handle MUCH better. That could require better Radial designed wheels however.

Studebaker Wheel
10-22-2013, 12:07 PM
Here is what the original caps look like. The words "Studebaker Champion" in white do not show up well in the image.

28833

David Conwill
10-22-2013, 12:12 PM
You may want to "re-think" the Bias Ply Tires plan! You will find that the Coker (or Diamond Back) Radial Wide Whites will handle MUCH better. That could require better Radial designed wheels however.

I really hate the radials on it right now. They're ugly due to the too-narrow whitewall and the bulgy sidewalls, and they make low-speed steering incredibly difficult.

StudeRich
10-22-2013, 12:22 PM
I really hate the radials on it right now. They're ugly due to the too-narrow whitewall and the bulgy sidewalls, and they make low-speed steering incredibly difficult.

AHH, but much MORE beautiful on a 1963 and on Car!
When the alignment, air pressure and lubrication is right, they should not turn hard.

David Conwill
10-22-2013, 12:44 PM
Don't I know it! I love the skinny whites on my Falcon (Futuras got skinny whites in '61).

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1961FordFalconFuturaBluebirdTObearing07252012.jpg

David Conwill
10-24-2013, 06:43 PM
They arrived today. I think they make a decent stand-in for the late-'50, '51-'52 cap:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v485/conwi1wd/1950s/null_zps74e85f69.jpg

Now for the bad news. The rear brakes are locking up at the slightest touch of the pedal, so I can't drive it until that's sorted out.

chumad
10-25-2013, 08:11 AM
28932
Super looking car, I took the liberty of fussing around with the picture... just playing around...

David Conwill
10-25-2013, 08:48 AM
Super looking car, I took the liberty of fussing around with the picture... just playing around...

Hey cool, I like it. :)

RadioRoy
10-25-2013, 12:57 PM
Brakes locking up at the slightest touch usually means the shoes are wet with brake fluid. If it has not been that way too long, you might soak them in simple green, rebuild the brake cylinders and be OK.

For some reason, it's usually the rear brakes that go bad first. Maybe because they are so hard to take apart.

dimaxion
10-25-2013, 02:01 PM
I need some information please ? Why would wheels designed and made to work with Tube Type Bias Ply Tires ever hold air with Tubeless Radial Tires . The Mounting Bead area on a Tire and the Rim are different between the two . The Rivvits , or welds in some cases , do leak air . Is it not logical Wheel Covers that friction fit on the Wheel Bead of Tube Type area would not fit the same on Radial Rims . Slightly different diameters and width . After all , what's a silly milly meter difference anyway ? The Wheel Covers Know for sure . I do still beleve the Tube Tires Rims will not seal up sufficently to work on Tubeless Tires then as now . Then being when both Tubeless and Radials first hit the Market . I didn't think Wheels for Tubeless Tires will fit the older Vehicles made prior to both these events . As I don't believe Radila Rims would work . Please help me understand this ? Thanx ..

David Conwill
10-25-2013, 02:46 PM
I assume there are tubes inside the radials on my car currently, but since I didn't put them on there, I can't say for certain.

I will say that I remember my dad having a tube put inside the radial on his '79 F250 when the rim developed some pinhole leaks and wouldn't let the tire stay inflated.

As far as wheels designed for tubeless tires on this car, I think that would require a bolt pattern change. I'm not aware of anything newer using the 4 on 4" pattern. I eventually would like to go with '51-up Commander brakes or the Turner disc conversion, so I will probably hunt up some narrow 5 on 4.5" wheels for that purpose. Speedway sells a 15 x 5 that would take the factory 10 1/8" hubcap, and those will accommodate a tubeless tire.

David Conwill
10-25-2013, 02:48 PM
Brakes locking up at the slightest touch usually means the shoes are wet with brake fluid. If it has not been that way too long, you might soak them in simple green, rebuild the brake cylinders and be OK.

For some reason, it's usually the rear brakes that go bad first. Maybe because they are so hard to take apart.

Thanks for that, Roy. I will be looking at them this weekend, I hope.

I haven't read the shop manual thoroughly yet - what's the trick to getting the rear drums off?

StudeRich
10-25-2013, 03:11 PM
I need some information please ? Why would wheels designed and made to work with Tube Type Bias Ply Tires ever hold air with Tubeless Radial Tires/Cut/

The Budd wheels used on '51 to '64 Studes. all hold air just fine, radials fit just fine thank you.
There is no significant difference in the Wheel Bead or the Tire Bead between Radial and Bias.
You are concerned about many things that are not a concern.

What you may be remembering is that Newer Wheels are called "Safety Rims" because the Bead shape has a Tire retaining feature, but does not affect Tire Shape, Wheel Cover Fit or anything, these came along AFTER Studebaker was gone.

Tubeless Tires were anticipated pretty early, I believe Studebaker had them around 1955 and Radials came into common use about 1976 as Optional Equipment ONLY on Chrysler products and other makes about that time.

That is not to say it was the FIRST use of course, Michelin was selling those skinny little Michelin X Radial Tires in early 1960's I believe that were only seen on Peugeots, and Citroens but sold as Aftermarket here for light Cars, they were Tube Type.

Now when it comes to Pre 1951 Wheels, I would not expect those old 4 bolt Champion Wheels to work very well with Radials, but they COULD.

chumad
10-25-2013, 08:19 PM
Hey cool, I like it. :)

Dave glad you like it, sometimes I mess with someones pictures with out asking and folks don't always approve. I'm an amateur photographer who just likes Studebakers and most any car. I'm always fussing with someones picture of there car... some come out better than others but I keep trying. take a look at my webs site if you want and see some of my shots. www.sportsandmorephotography.com nothing fancy but its fun. Always glad to take requests if someone wants there photo fussed with. Its all for fun :-)

RadioRoy
10-25-2013, 10:08 PM
Thanks for that, Roy. I will be looking at them this weekend, I hope.

I haven't read the shop manual thoroughly yet - what's the trick to getting the rear drums off?

You MUST use a proper hub puller. It's particularly unique on a 50 Champion because your car has four bolt hubs. Most of the modern pullers use three legs, which require a triangular lug pattern with the axle in the center of the triangle - not along the hypotenuse.

You either have to have four legs on the puller, or an adapter plate that bolts to all four lugs and has three more lugs for the puller.

But since I am the one who is always yapping about troubleshooting the problem before taking everything apart, you might determine which wheel is grabbing. You could also pull the front wheels first, as they are easier to pull.