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Turns over without the key on.

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  • Electrical: Turns over without the key on.

    When I last drove the car a few days ago, everything was fine. Went to start the car today and the battery was run down. Never has done that before. Put a charger on it and a little while later I tried it and it was completely dead. When I went to put jumper cables on it, the instant I hooked it up, the motor started turning over. I had the key in the off position!! What's going on?

  • #2
    What year and model Stude?
    Dick Steinkamp
    Bellingham, WA

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    • #3
      The Solenoid is stuck and needs replacement.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        The car is a 63' GT Hawk.

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        • #5
          Could also be a faulty ignition switch.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
            The Solenoid is stuck and needs replacement.
            This is probably it, but to be sure, pull the trigger wire from the ignition switch off the solenoid (white with a red tracer). Hook up the battery. If it turns over again, it is the solenoid. If not, it is the ignition switch.
            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

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            • #7
              If you remove the battery, does it still turn over ?

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              • #8
                I did as Dick suggested and it still turned over. I bought a new solenoid and that seemed to be the problem. Went out to drive it today and the battery is dead. Something must be draining the juice out of it?

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                • #9
                  Yes, something is draining the battery. To find out what it is, you might disconnect the negative cable from the battery and intercalate an ammeter between the negative cable and the negative post on the battery. If everything is in order, there should only be a few milliamps current flow. (If you use a VOM check to see that the current scale is high enough for a significant current draw.) If there is significant current flow, start removing circuits from the system by pulling their fuses or circuit breakers one at a time and watching the ammeter. When the offending circuit is removed, the ammeter should show a greatly reduced current flow. This is easy to do on modern cars with a multi-circuit "fusebox", but not quite as easy with an older car that has fuses in various places. Good luck.

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                  • #10
                    Glove compartment Light not turning off, or the Clock spring rewind POINTS are stuck, disconnect the Clock power wire and do the above mentioned Test on it.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                    SDC Member Since 1967

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                    • #11
                      I have to leave the battery cable disconnected because otherwise, the engine turns over. Using a VOM, I got a reading of 11.49 volts between the battery and the negative cable. I have a newer fuse box with the new style fuses. Pulled all of them and they all looked good. Didn't think I could test the circuits with the battery disconnected so I gambled and bought a new ignition switch. Just put it on tonight and guess what, as soon as I touch the cable to the battery, it try's to start. New solenoid, new ignition switch. Same problem.
                      Last edited by Rich Hawk; 10-03-2013, 04:37 PM.

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                      • #12
                        I disconnected the glove box light. The clock does not work in the year that I have owned the car.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rich Hawk View Post
                          I bought a new solenoid and that seemed to be the problem.
                          If that fixed the problem, what made you install a new ignition switch?
                          Dick Steinkamp
                          Bellingham, WA

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                          • #14
                            Because, after driven it, the next day when I went to start it, the battery was dead. I disconnected the neg. cable and recharged the battery. When I re-hooked the cable, the motor turned over without the key on. I was back to the same problem. So I changed out the ignition switch. When I again touched the cable to the post, the motor turns over and try's to start. It appears the solenoid was not the problem and now the ignition is not the problem either.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Rich Hawk View Post
                              Because, after driven it, the next day when I went to start it, the battery was dead. I disconnected the neg. cable and recharged the battery. When I re-hooked the cable, the motor turned over without the key on. I was back to the same problem. So I changed out the ignition switch. When I again touched the cable to the post, the motor turns over and try's to start. It appears the solenoid was not the problem and now the ignition is not the problem either.
                              Sounds like a couple of wires have bad insulation. One being battery power and the other wire to the solonoid. Where did you get your solonoid? I have gotted bad ones in town. Ended up useing an old one I had.

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