Paint Problems!

[54-61-62]

Okay - I'm trying to do a repaint on Studie and I have had problems with reactions.

The paint I'm going over was a 1994 repaint using Acme acrylic enamel without hardner ( I did not do the 1994 repaint). I am using PPG delstar as my topcoat now.

First time I shot the car everything turned out nice except one panel. That one particular panel after 12 hours crazed - looks almost like "laquor cracking". I sanded it down re-shot it with primer-sealer. after shooting it with primer-sealer it still looked good. Next day I shoot it with PPG delstar topcoat and the whole thing one again crazes.

(fast forward two weeks) Tonight I sanded the whole dry mess down and reshot it with another brand of sealer. Almost immediately after shooting it it crazed.

Any recomendations of a sealer to use that will get me by without stripping it?

Kent Fedor

[StudeRich]

Kent; is there any chance that "panel" is near windows or doors that might have had SILICONE sprayed on weatherstrips, glass channels etc. that would put overspray on the paint, making it impossible to repaint. Did you try wax and grease remover or metal prep?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[StudeRich]

Kent; is there any chance that "panel" is near windows or doors that might have had SILICONE sprayed on weatherstrips, glass channels etc. that would put overspray on the paint, making it impossible to repaint. Did you try wax and grease remover or metal prep?

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[54-61-62]

Its not silicone - it got wiped with PPG paint prep solvent.

KF

[54-61-62]

Its not silicone - it got wiped with PPG paint prep solvent.

KF

[rockne10]

I would think silicone overspray would cause fisheye, not crazing over the whole panel. Hopefully someone who knows about paint can zero your problem. It sounds like you've already spent the time that would have been consumed with an initial stripping, prep, prime and paint.


Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight

previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

[rockne10]

I would think silicone overspray would cause fisheye, not crazing over the whole panel. Hopefully someone who knows about paint can zero your problem. It sounds like you've already spent the time that would have been consumed with an initial stripping, prep, prime and paint.


Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight

previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

[JTurner]

Well, now that you have way TOO much paint on that panel, get out the stripper, and strip it down to bare metal and start over. That's NOT what you want to hear, but, that will be the only way to correct it now. How many times was it painted before? more than 1 repaint and it needs stripped or blocked down to almost bare metal. Being that you are probably not accustomed to refinishing a car, it will be much quicker and more cost effective for you to strip it.
As indicated on the cans "For Professional Use Only" <G>
I spend about 15K in paint supplies a month at the shop, and yes, it does hit the pocket book when we have to repaint a panel or a car, but it does happen, and at $150 a gallon for the clear it hurts!
Just remember, DO NOT mix manufactuers! that can and will cause a problem!

Jim Turner

[JTurner]

Well, now that you have way TOO much paint on that panel, get out the stripper, and strip it down to bare metal and start over. That's NOT what you want to hear, but, that will be the only way to correct it now. How many times was it painted before? more than 1 repaint and it needs stripped or blocked down to almost bare metal. Being that you are probably not accustomed to refinishing a car, it will be much quicker and more cost effective for you to strip it.
As indicated on the cans "For Professional Use Only" <G>
I spend about 15K in paint supplies a month at the shop, and yes, it does hit the pocket book when we have to repaint a panel or a car, but it does happen, and at $150 a gallon for the clear it hurts!
Just remember, DO NOT mix manufactuers! that can and will cause a problem!

Jim Turner

[rockne10]

I was going to say it's time to bite the bullet but was hoping someone with more knowledge than I would chime in. Thanks, Jim.

Mask meticulously, use Aircraft Remover, following instructions; and, no, it wont make planes disappear. Hopefully there hasn't been disfiguring repair done to the panel. If you find any bondo, heat it out.

Do it right; never do it again.



Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight

previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

[rockne10]

I was going to say it's time to bite the bullet but was hoping someone with more knowledge than I would chime in. Thanks, Jim.

Mask meticulously, use Aircraft Remover, following instructions; and, no, it wont make planes disappear. Hopefully there hasn't been disfiguring repair done to the panel. If you find any bondo, heat it out.

Do it right; never do it again.



Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight

previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

[bams50]

Kent-

Hate to say it, but you're probably going to drive yourself NUTS trying to get that topcoat to lay down over the original...[xx(]

Acrylic enamel without hardener is a rather low-quality paint; it's like spraying on crayon- looks shiny in the beginning but never gets very tough. The hardener is what cross-links with the color to chemically toughen the surface for long-term durability.

I NEVER recommend cheapo paint for just this reason! I love the acrylic urethanes; solid or metallic colors, single stage or basecoat/clearcoat- easy to apply, easy to repair, and wears like iron with very little care![8D]

In your situation I'd try this: If it's a solid color, remove ALL paint on the problem panel; go with a couple coats of primer/surfacer, let it dry at least 12 hrs., then sand; if that stays down, clean and seal with a couple coats of a QUALITY sealer; dry as directed, Scotch-Brite any nibs, clean with a tack cloth; then go with the top coat- first a very light and dry tack coat; allow it to flash and go with 2 more tack coats; then 1 or 2 semi-wet coats. Be sure to spray in a cross-coat pattern as opposed to back-and-forth horizontal pattern.

Same if it's metallic, but one less tack coat and one more top coat...

Good luck, and keep us posted

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[bams50]

Kent-

Hate to say it, but you're probably going to drive yourself NUTS trying to get that topcoat to lay down over the original...[xx(]

Acrylic enamel without hardener is a rather low-quality paint; it's like spraying on crayon- looks shiny in the beginning but never gets very tough. The hardener is what cross-links with the color to chemically toughen the surface for long-term durability.

I NEVER recommend cheapo paint for just this reason! I love the acrylic urethanes; solid or metallic colors, single stage or basecoat/clearcoat- easy to apply, easy to repair, and wears like iron with very little care![8D]

In your situation I'd try this: If it's a solid color, remove ALL paint on the problem panel; go with a couple coats of primer/surfacer, let it dry at least 12 hrs., then sand; if that stays down, clean and seal with a couple coats of a QUALITY sealer; dry as directed, Scotch-Brite any nibs, clean with a tack cloth; then go with the top coat- first a very light and dry tack coat; allow it to flash and go with 2 more tack coats; then 1 or 2 semi-wet coats. Be sure to spray in a cross-coat pattern as opposed to back-and-forth horizontal pattern.

Same if it's metallic, but one less tack coat and one more top coat...

Good luck, and keep us posted

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[54-61-62]

Thanks for confirming my worst fears. (stripping it off)

Panel was stripped to bare metal in 1994, and from what I can tell a ****load of bondo thrown in it [somebody drilled lotsa holes] [xx(]. I was really trying to avoid getting into a $1500 quarter panel repair job (NOS are long gone) right now for a ratty driver car.

After I got home Saturday from the pure stock muscle car drags where I watched Ted run a 12.999, I was doing chores here on the farm and in an accident with the tractor I broke my ankle. That explains my reluctance to want to strip it all down - doing body work on crutches is just a ball[]!

I guess I feel lucky now that the rest of the car turned out decent! This experence sure has taught me to strip off all old paint on my next paint; a 62 daytona.

Kent Fedor

[54-61-62]

Thanks for confirming my worst fears. (stripping it off)

Panel was stripped to bare metal in 1994, and from what I can tell a ****load of bondo thrown in it [somebody drilled lotsa holes] [xx(]. I was really trying to avoid getting into a $1500 quarter panel repair job (NOS are long gone) right now for a ratty driver car.

After I got home Saturday from the pure stock muscle car drags where I watched Ted run a 12.999, I was doing chores here on the farm and in an accident with the tractor I broke my ankle. That explains my reluctance to want to strip it all down - doing body work on crutches is just a ball[]!

I guess I feel lucky now that the rest of the car turned out decent! This experence sure has taught me to strip off all old paint on my next paint; a 62 daytona.

Kent Fedor