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  • Steering: Torque spec.

    None of these books [ 62- 64 shop manual or Avanti workshop manual] show a torque spec for the nut on the bottom of the bellcrank shaft. It's 5/8 with 18 threads . The proof readers definetly missed it as its not in the instructions or in the torque spec pages. Inquiring minds need to know!!!! Thanks in advance!1 Lou Cote

  • #2
    Minimum torque for a Grade 5 5/8-18 nut is 72 pounds-feet; for Grade 8, it is 90 pounds-feet.

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    • #3
      It should have a hole for the cotter pin and the nut should be castellated. When you tighten it down to take the thrust specs. Do not tighten it down more, just put the pin in. Don't be a gorilla.

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      • #4
        I'm still looking for the correct spec, don't want to over or under tighten. Thanks in advance Lou Cote Is this one that stumps the experts?

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        • #5
          No torque spec is given because no torque is required.
          I just checked the 55, the 56-57, and the 59-64 Shop manuals.
          All give the same instructions.
          Install the shaft and upper thrust washer in the bracket.
          Install cork seal.
          Temporarily install lower thrust washer and nut.
          Check for endplay.
          Insert shims between lower thrust washer and shaft until there is NO ENDPLAY and shaft still turns freely in the bearings.
          After obtaining proper endplay [none] lock the nut securely with the cotter pin.
          The Chassis Parts catalog 55-58 and 59-64 give 5:
          "shim, bell crank adjusting" thicknesses to choose:
          .009-.011
          .012-.014
          .015-.017
          .018-.020
          .021-.023
          The nut does not determine endplay, it and the cotter pin just keep everthing from falling apart.
          "Don't be a gorilla"
          South Lompoc Studebaker

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          • #6
            Sometimes the books only list the specs when they are important and most important thing is to follow the bearing install specs and depth measurements. I would go with 50-60 FT pounds and not even bother with a torque wrench and call it good as long as it rotates without bind because the way it is built. The cotter pin is the key like Alan says. They are kind of like a tie rod-- tight is tight, the cotter pin keeps it there.

            expert? yes Alan knows his sh;t

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