Ignition: pertronics ign system /hot

[studevic]

hello all , i have just fitted a pertronic ign system to a R1 distributor and installed it into a 1957 v8 hawk , runs well but i noticed the ballast resistor is very hot to touch ,question is, does it matter which side of the ballast res the wire goes to from the distributor . i lost the guide sheet so wasnt sure , thanks for your help. roger

[JoeHall]

No problem, the ballast resister is supposed to get hot. You only need to use that resister IF you are still using the OEM coil. If you use an aftermarket coil with internal resister, you can bypass it. When it comes to starting and performance, cannot tell any difference no matter which way they are set up.

[63 R2 Hawk]

The ballast resistor should be on the hot wire that switches 12VDC from the ignition switch to the resistor which drops it to around 6-7volts for the coil + side. Later Hawks used a pink resistance wire instead of a resistor block.

[StudeRich]

/Cut/question is, does it matter which side of the ballast res the wire goes to from the distributor . i lost the guide sheet so wasnt sure , thanks for your help. roger

To answer your question that I see no one has, Yes it matters if you connect the Dist. to the side the Power Wire of the Resister is on, you defeat it and get 12V, if you connect to the other side you get about 8-9 Volts.

[Bud]

I don't care what Pertronix says about their coils being able to operate without a ballast resistor, don't do it. I've replaced 3 Pertronix coils that have failed in recent history due to overheating from high primary winding voltage. A ballast resistor or a coil with an internal resistor is required with a 12 volt ignition system. I agree with Rich, a 12 volt coil is designed to operate on 8-10 volts, any more than that and the coil windings overheat. The ballast resistor is non directional and is connected in series with the positive lead to the ignition coil from the ignition switch and is bypassed by an extra connection on the starter solenoid during starting to allow the coil to temporarily operate on a higher voltage during starting. Bud

[JoeHall]

I don't care what Pertronix says about their coils being able to operate without a ballast resistor, don't do it. I've replaced 3 Pertronix coils that have failed in recent history due to overheating from high primary winding voltage. A ballast resistor or a coil with an internal resistor is required with a 12 volt ignition system. I agree with Rich, a 12 volt coil is designed to operate on 8-10 volts, any more than that and the coil windings overheat. The ballast resistor is non directional and is connected in series with the positive lead to the ignition coil from the ignition switch and is bypassed by an extra connection on the starter solenoid during starting to allow the coil to temporarily operate on a higher voltage during starting. Bud

The Pertronix coil has a bad rep around here for failure too. That is why I said "aftermarket coil with internal resistor" above in order to run 12 volts to it, and why I chose an Accell 8140 coil for both Pertronix's ignitions installed here. Per local street-rodders, the 8140 is compatible with Pertronix ignition, and 12 volts is OK. I set both mine up accordingly, and have not had a problem, nor has anyone I know. I am unsure if the 8140 has an internal resistor, but its OK with 12 volts.

With one of the cars, when I had a distributor cap problem and was troubleshooting, I swapped the OEM coil back in and reconnected the ballast coil. I could tell no difference in start up or performance, so after eventually replacing the distributor cap, was in no hurry to swap the 8140 back in. I eventually did, but still cannot tell the difference. That's why I mentioned it above also.

I agree, stay away from the Pertronix coil, no matter how you hook it up. Looks like its bad rep extends from coast to coast

[speedbump]

18K miles on Pertronix and coil and zero problems with no resistor.(ugly on firewall) The ballast was put in to protect the breaker points, not the coil.

[JoeHall]

18K miles on Pertronix and coil and zero problems with no resistor.(ugly on firewall) The ballast was put in to protect the breaker points, not the coil.

You, and I am sure many, many others have success stories and nothing but praise for Pertronix coils, but apparently enough people have experienced failure (esp. with 12 volts applied) to give them a bad rep. I avoided them strictly because of the rep, and have no first hand experience with them. If I had it to do over, I'd just keep the OEM coil and external resistor in place and save the extra money. As I mentioned above, I could not tell the difference anyway.

Glad yours is working out. However, its good practice for any Stude driver to carry a spare coil in the "insurance items" box in the trunk anyway. I do, and hope you do too

[Bud]

There is nothing wrong with using OEM or aftermarket stock coil as long as it is in good condition. All of the hype about using a hotter coil on a Studebaker engine makes little sense as our engines are for the most part are lower compression slow revving engines that don't need a super high output coil as they don't require a high firing voltage to light the plugs. The Pertronix module will work just fine with a stock coil. I have stock coils on both my 62 Hawk and my 63 Avanti and have had no problems with coil failures like I've had with the Pertronix or other supposed high output coils. Keep in mind that the new replacement coils are no longer being produced in the USA and their quality is suspect at best along with other ignition parts that I've purchased in recent history. Bud

[speedbump]

I make some retired 'beer money" by machining and building older engines for people that desire them....and are willing to pay. That includes Studebakers. I convert all that I do to Pertronix and I use thier coil, not for killer spark or any of the advertising hype, but because I think it's easier to talk to Pertronix if you have a problem and you use their "system." So it makes it easier for my customers and have had zero problems. Neither of my hot rods, to this point, are Studes(even though they put a smile on my face) but they both have pertronix for the reasons stated. In my 66 years of being in this stuff as a business, vocation and hobby, I can't think of one time right now that it really was the coil that was the problem, but it seems that's the first thing blamed when there's an ignition problem. Maybe I can't remember cuz I'm old, but I don't carry a coil in my possibles bag.

[JoeHall]

I make some retired 'beer money" by machining and building older engines for people that desire them....and are willing to pay. That includes Studebakers. I convert all that I do to Pertronix and I use thier coil, not for killer spark or any of the advertising hype, but because I think it's easier to talk to Pertronix if you have a problem and you use their "system." So it makes it easier for my customers and have had zero problems. Neither of my hot rods, to this point, are Studes(even though they put a smile on my face) but they both have pertronix for the reasons stated. In my 66 years of being in this stuff as a business, vocation and hobby, I can't think of one time right now that it really was the coil that was the problem, but it seems that's the first thing blamed when there's an ignition problem. Maybe I can't remember cuz I'm old, but I don't carry a coil in my possibles bag.

I have had a couple go out in the last 500,000+ Stude miles. The symptoms experienced was like it was running out of gas, and the coil was real hot to the touch. A spare does not take much space in the insurance items box. I agree it is often the first thing suspected, but than again, it may be the easiest to rule-out, by simply plugging another one in.

[StudeRich]

/Cut/I can't think of one time right now that it really was the coil that was the problem, but it seems that's the first thing blamed when there's an ignition problem. Maybe I can't remember cuz I'm old, but I don't carry a coil in my possibles bag.

You are absolutely correct when it comes to the old, original, OEM Delco, Autolite, Echlin and Prestolite Coils back in the "Day". But you will find that the Pertronixs Standard Flamethrower Coils made in China do NOT fair nearly as well, I am hoping that the 40,000 Volt Flamethrower II Coils made in USA will last longer so I use them.