View Full Version : Remove rear brake drums

09-09-2007, 07:00 PM
Hello Everyone!
The work is proceeding on my 57 Hawk restoration. I have two questions & one is a judgement call. First of all, I can't get the rear drums off. Prying and pecking does'nt work. Do I need a "puller"?I suspect that would be the better way as opposed to breaking something. If anyone knows, give me a holler!

Judgement call----I'm looking at a bare frame, & overall it's in pretty good shape. Needs some very minor welding in the back. The area in question is the reveted on bracket that holds the front of the rear leaf spring. One bolt goes thru the leaf spring so the spring is capsured in this bracket & the bracket is reveted on the frame with big revets. With the frame upside down, looking down at the 4 revets that secure that bracket to the frame, I noticed the bracket was "bulging" in the middle. A closer inspection revealed a spot that is rusted thru in the middle. The rust is pushing up in the middle. I think the damge is confined to a fairly small area. I can drill out the revets and repair the area fairly easily, and use "bolts" to re-assemble. This worries me a little for two reasons. One, I don't know if there's room for bolt heads in the area where the spring bolts. Two, this area holds alot of weight, and is constantly being shoved around by the action of the leaf spring. The revets hold the bracket securely with no slop in the hole(they are in compression in every direction). However, This would not be the case if the repair was made with bolts---if they ever slip even just a little, it's just a question of time til they come loose in my opinion. But the rust is under there. FIX OR NOT TO FIX is the judgement call. It probably won't rust out in my lifetime, but it would be nice for it to be around for the next generation. What about making the repair with bolts, but stitch welding it to the frame also. All opinions are helpful---thanks in advance---Dan

09-09-2007, 07:28 PM
hey dan,
it takes a special axle puller to remove those drum, trust me i have tried. i finally bought one and it makes the job pretty easy. if you can find a member local to you that has one i can ship you mine to use i shouldnt need it for a few weeks. you would have to pay shipping of course unless you are close to me seymour indiana...
on the frame the leaf spring brackets on my hawk were rusted i cut out the bad and welded in new. i didnt remove it from the frame but didnt like the rivets so i welded the entire bracket to the frame to make me feel better...

Erin Hays
"From Stuck and Rusty to Slick steel and sex appeal"
1961 Hawk
1962 Lark
1963 Wagonaire

09-09-2007, 08:26 PM
All of mine have been removed and bolted on. Make bolts a tight fit in holes. Use fine thread button head bolt for clearance with lock nuts.

09-10-2007, 03:09 AM
If you can drive your car you do not need a puller to remove rear drums. Remove key and loosen nut 1/2 turn. Replace key and drive until you hear the drum pop. Now you can pull it off by hand. Some time you have to make a lot of turns to make it break lose.

09-10-2007, 07:20 AM
What leyrret said, Plus Blue Locktight.


09-10-2007, 07:36 AM
Read this thread about the rear drums!


09-12-2007, 08:17 PM
Thanks for everyones help-----Dan

09-13-2007, 05:31 PM
I bought my puller on ebay at one writer's suggestion. I have used it on 3 cars now. I have also seen these for sale at GOODGUYS shows in the vendor area. Same price or cheaper as ebay but no freight cost.

You can also carry it with you on long trips right along with your other tools.

I use an air wrench (not a hammer) to turn the long puller bolt and the hub is off right NOW.......BRAD


09-13-2007, 08:11 PM
The puller that I purchased from Studebaker-intl is also available through NAPA stores. They have it in their tool catalog.

03-21-2009, 12:30 PM
Billwillard, Have you tried that method? i suppose it might be a good idea before i have to revert to a puller.