View Full Version : Body: Details installing 1951 pick-up cab onto frame

Ray Stewart
08-23-2013, 08:35 AM
What is the configuration of the washers, bolts, nuts, springs at the rear of the cab when mounting? Took it apart a while back, not sure how it was originally assembled, and can not find a detail in either manual. The parts catalog indicates ill. 2403 and I can not find that ill...can find 24-3 and it is not the one. Both bolts are drilled (like aircraft bolts) for safety wiring. One bolt is longer than the other and has a couple nuts while the other bolt has no nuts...suspect there were two weld-nuts in the frame at one time and not there is only one...have not confirmed that as yet. Manual did indicate a mounting pad between the cab and frame. I can put down a pad and bolt in with springs on the inside of the cab...but sure would like to see the original design.

Skip Lackie
08-23-2013, 04:22 PM
There is a listing of the individual parts in section 2403 of the 49-56 parts book, but no illustration. I believe there's an illustration in the 57-61 truck parts book. But the listing should help you identify the bolts by length, the part numbers, and where the shims and pads go.

The LF has no spring. From the top: bolt, flat washer, rubber shim, big flat washers as needed for shims, lock washer, nut.

RF: bolt, washer, spring w/cup washers, washer, rubber shim, big flat washers as required, lock washer, nut, pal nut.

LR: Bolt, washer, spring w/spacer, washer, rubber shim, flat steel shims as required. Screws into threaded hole in cross member.

RR: Bolt, washer, spring w/cup washers, washer, rubber shim, steel shims as required, lock washer, nuts (2).

Ray Stewart
08-23-2013, 05:02 PM
SKIP, Thanks for the reply! I always take em apart (this is #4) expecting a quick rebuild and I should know better than that. I have also labeled everything before...masking tape. We all know how unreadable that becomes. Plastic baggies labeled...restore to the manuals. I am sure many folks other than myself has been there too! Insanity has been explained as doing the same thing over and over expecting a different outcome. It is great to have a place to come to for help.

08-23-2013, 05:43 PM
One of the neat results of removing the cab is you have an opportunity to make it better than the factory. Not that they did a bad job, but lets face it. These vehicles were made with profit as the main goal. This meant that they were assembled with parts (nut, bolts, shims, etc) purchased in bulk by the lowest bidding supplier. Also, the fewer parts, slapped together in the quickest time, meant less cost and higher profit. You now have an opportunity to take your time, use high grade fasteners, and improve on the rubber insulators and shims at your leisure. The main thing is to make sure to allow for alignment with your front mounts corresponding to those back mounts so that your "fit" of the front fenders, grille, etc. is made correctly. Of course, that was not always perfect from the factory either.

I have participated in taking different truck cabs of the era apart. In my opinion, Studebaker had one of the tightest sheet metal "capsule" cockpits of anyone in the industry. With good sound deadening techniques and materials, I believe it is possible to have the most solid and quiet trucks of the era as well. Even though all trucks of the era were pretty much the "step-child" division of their respective companies, and utility trumped style and comfort...the Studebaker cab is capable of much quieter sound proofing than most of the others. Depending on how far you have the cab apart, liberal slathering of a thick coating of rubberized undercoating or bed liner coatings in the inside of your door panels, behind the seat, under the seat, inside the roof, etc. can work wonders eliminating the "tin can" effect. Add new door rubber, cat whiskers, and window channels, and make sure the window mechanisms, and door lock mechanical pieces are tight, and you will have a ride about as quiet as a modern truck.

Take a ride around the block in a well maintained Studebaker truck. Then do the same in any other make, of the '50's, and you'll see what I mean.:)

Dwain G.
08-24-2013, 12:02 AM
26866 Body R&R from 3R shop manual. Replacing with later rubber plugs from a serv. bulletin