View Full Version : Window regulator

David Daoust
08-16-2013, 02:46 PM
As my luck would have it, the driver's side window regulator on my 64 Daytona convertible crapped-out. Studebaker International sells them but they want the old one first. Does anyone know of a source where you get the new regulator first (with an upcharge) and then get credited back when you send in the broken one? I know some places handle core charges that way. Any help appreciated.

08-16-2013, 04:52 PM
Can't help with your actual request. But I sent my GT's left regulator in for the rebuild at SI. It came back working so smoothly that I can work it with two fingers while holding it with the other hand. It looks like brand new. I just haven't had the chance to put it back in yet. I need to POR15 the inside of the door first.

So. . . just saying. . . the SI rebuilds are a great product if you can't find another solution.


08-16-2013, 04:59 PM
Another suggestion - repair it yourself.
If it is the sector that is worn, build it up with braze and file/grind the teeth to the proper shape. This will last for years.
If it is the drive gear that is worn, replace it with one from another regulator.

With SI, I do not believe that it is a true core charge. I believe that they rebuild your unit.

08-17-2013, 08:52 AM
The drivers window in my 60 Hawk won't roll up smoothly. I have ordered new cats whiskers but I suspect that the regulator, like David's, needs work. What is the interchangeability of Studebaker front door regulators? Are they the same in all C/K's 53-64? Any commonality between Hawks and Larks? Will GT regulators work in earlier C/K?

If entire regulator assemblies don't interchange, what about interchange for worn drive gear that Gary mentions? Seems to me that if there is broad interchangeability there should be a lot of cores around for rebuilding (and selling).

stude dude
08-17-2013, 09:23 AM
1956-64 C & K are the same. 1956-62 sedan fronts are also the same as C/K EXCEPT- the length of the shaft where the winder handle goes on is shorter. You can fit them sometimes, depending on the thickness of the door trim panel and rubber spacers behind. I think the 56-58 regulators may have a slightly longer shaft than the 59-62 regs.


08-17-2013, 09:28 AM
Or, just convert to a modern electric lift setup. It's pretty easy to do, and with the trick switches that use the old handle, it's not obvious at all. Of course it's not original...

08-19-2013, 01:41 PM
As luck would have it I am working on my window regulator for my Lark this weekend. I was able to buy a regulator from some other model Studebaker but did not fit my car. I was able to remove the rivets on the incorrect regulator drive gear , clean and place it on the broken regulator. I will be welding the replaced gear rivets tonight and will post how it worked.


08-27-2013, 04:07 PM
YEA!! I finally got the regulator drive gear cover welded. I was really worried I got the gear clocked in the wrong position. I guessed and it looks as if I got it close. It makes a small thump thump thump when I raise the window, but I greased it heavily and it is at least back working now. I can now drive into work and wave my badge out the window instead of opening the door.

12-10-2013, 09:00 PM
I have a similar problem with mine. The shaft for the crank is offset from whatever and S.I., wants almost $500 to replace my set with theirs. I'm thinking it's going to be much less expensive to buy the riveter and drill the holes, and put new rivets in (this is what I'm thinking), unless it requires a $1,400 tool. Pretty much anything which is $200 or below would be great. I also know about the welds for the crank holder.

12-10-2013, 10:13 PM
Spannerbird, check your inbox.

12-11-2013, 12:19 PM
...that regulator and the idler set up is a hen's tooth entity....I sold a pair a few years back....thatI'd had for >20 yrs on my shelf......