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View Full Version : '63 Shell available.



mmagic
08-13-2013, 12:01 AM
I have a bill of sale 63V-Y that was abandoned about 10 years ago. I acquired it from an abandoned junk car scavenger. The Odometer shows about 24,000 miles. The pedals have no more wear than the ones I just bought from SI. The nylon carpet looks like the day it left the factory. The underside shows factory paint instead of rust. The hubcaps are mint. The body is straight and dent free except for a little bit of that normal bottom of Studebaker front fender cancer. I believe the odometer. Back seat is missing and the dash is standard 63 fail... and interior soft parts are generally dust.

The engine, transmission and some 12 volt items are planned to head to the Speedster as I would rather have a 24,000 mile, 12 volt, Speedster than a 24,000 mile 63V-Y.

General rust free condition tends to confirm it was a Colorado car.

The shell should be available in 60 to 90 days if anyone has an interest in low mileage rust free shell.

289stude
08-13-2013, 01:52 AM
Send me a pm.

jimmijim8
08-13-2013, 05:14 AM
Merely going to devalue the speedster if you are changing out the original driveline. Johnny Cash mobile possibly Or is it already one? Speedster is kinda-sorta like a bit rare because of low production. A bit over 2000. I wouldn't go there. Even if your car is without a driveline you could trade your 63 stuff for a year specific driveline. Besides that, theres got to be at least a couple people out there that wouldn't mind switching their rust bucket's Id tags over to that rust free specimine. I've got a 63 Hawk and a 55 President Hardtop. Both are as the factory prepared them driveline wise. I wouldn't change a thing. cheers jimmijim

wolfie
08-13-2013, 09:39 AM
If the Speedster needs an engine and I had a good 63 engine they would become friends. The few people that would notice would accept the changes. Steve

jimmijim8
08-13-2013, 10:25 AM
And if a person is in the market for an original type speedster your car does not meet his qualifications.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I wouldn't
bank on your supposition. cheers jimmijim .
If the Speedster needs an engine and I had a good 63 engine they would become friends. The few people that would notice would accept the changes. Steve

mmagic
08-13-2013, 11:08 AM
Here is my thought process/logic:

My objective for the Speedster is a high driver that will get driven 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year. I'm building the car from frame up from that perspective. I'm going Turner disc and dual MS, 12 volt, new SW gauges a central fuse block, electric fuel pump and Halogen headlights. Cosmetically the Speedster is special in my book both for Studebaker and American cars of any year... even more striking than the Avanti. I'll try not to change anything appearance wise. I just changed the U joints because I was there and I intend to drive it rather than pass it to a next buyer at auction Ft McDowell or Scottsdale. I expect to have a new 1955 Speedster for less than the cost of 2013 anything.

Based on condition, dry grease fittings etc. my guess is that the Speedster spent its last 10,000+ miles with a kid who rode it hard and ignored service. There was a failed attempt to install a floor shift and it lacks a manual steering column. The presumably original engine and transmission are present of unknown condition although it was suggested to have been rebuilt in the last 5,000 miles. I was guessing actual mileage to be around 120,000. Just checked and odometer reads 15,700. The last license plate is 1968 although there could have been stickers subsequently so some of my assumptions could just be due to idle age.

What I know of the '63 is that my friends in law enforcement have established it was last registered in Boulder and was not stolen. I would surmise that it was Grandma's car that a kid took to college and abandoned on or near I-70 in an eastern Colorado snowstorm..... just a guess. I have no idea of the condition of the engine but I wish the transmission in my Champ felt as tight and new as the one in the '63.

I have not been successful in locating a C/K manual transmission steering column for PS and the PS system needs refurb/replace so that suggests a Hurst/Astro/Grand Am combination that moves me in the direction of Johny Cash.

Aside from long tail short tail issues, both have the same 259 manual /OD drive train. Neither engine is frozen or shows visible external crack or block damage. Both engines could be good or both engines could be bad.

Thus my current plan to pull the '63 engine and evaluate it then move the low mileage drive train to the Speedster using the Speedster short tail OD case. Should the '63 engine not be use able, evaluate the '55 engine and should that also be bad locate another 259 or 289 or a Brand "X" power plant.

My sequence is:
1) foundation (frame and anything related to it) first. ..... Within hours of being done
2) external shell
3) mechanical
4) front clip
5) cabin
6) external shiny

That puts the final drive train decisions about 60 days out and subject to change until then.

The '63 shell is too good to send to a crusher and whether I execute the drive train switch or not, someone with an Eastern or Midwest rust bucket would die to use it for a builder... Title issues can be dealt with.

63t-cab
08-13-2013, 03:14 PM
Merlin,enjoy your build " to suit YOU " and drive it til the cows come home <G>

55 56 PREZ 4D
08-13-2013, 03:33 PM
Your Way.
There are SO MANY changes that can be made to the car to make it the way you want.
Changes that can be made without damaging or modifying the car, changes that can be reversed by you or a later owner.
I would suggest to keep as many original parts [if they are indeed original to the car-correct engine per factory order] so that later on it can be restored if wanted.
Then drive the wheels off it.

jimmijim8
08-13-2013, 04:39 PM
Excuse me, I was only stating what I feel perspective. Am I wrong? Not at all trying to tell the fellow what to do with his car. Whyscome imply dat. I couldn't care less if the car receives a flat head 169 with 2 carbs and duall exhaust. Folks, if some of you have requirements on things to talk about that {some of} you won't make a hill of beans about, I'm all ears. I promise to not post if I have nothing pertinent/relevant to offer. I think. But then again, somebody will whine regardless. Oh yeah. cheers jimmijim

Corvanti
08-13-2013, 07:03 PM
i think your "plan" sounds fine for a "driver", and agree with the above statement to be able to return it to original "if" you ever decide to sell her. the only thing i would strike from your above post would be a "Brand X" engine if at all possible.:)

most of all, have fun with it!!!

mmagic
08-13-2013, 08:16 PM
I respect your opinions and appreciate all the logic behind them. Which engine drive train goes in the Speedster is not yet cast in stone but will be if we stay on schedule in 60 to 90 days. The 63 is surplus with or without the engine/transmission and would be a gift from heaven for any restorer in mag-chloride zones.

I have serious time consuming plans for 2014 and must finish the Speedster before them. I don't expect to have time for any restoration work in 2014 so I don't need to keep paying storage on the '63.

Rest assured, brand "X" would be a last resort.

JimC
08-14-2013, 12:14 AM
Stick with your plans if you feel like it's the best. Some people will point out that there were only a couple thousand made, and they should be preserved, and etc. My thought is that if that is how they feel, THEY should have bought the car to ensure it happened like that. Sure, I can understand their point, that one less "all original" Speedster is a much larger loss percentage-wise, than say one less '60 Lark. But if the next owner after you wants to make it original, it's not going to be impossible. From what I understand, you're not modding into a gasser or tubbing out the rear end or cutting some huge hole for an oversized scoop.

YOUR car, YOUR money, YOUR decisions. For the record, if I were in exactly your shoes, I'd probably do exactly the same thing you're talking about.

jimmijim8
08-14-2013, 01:10 AM
Here ya go Jim
Stick with your plans if you feel like it's the best. Some people will point out { Am I included?}<<<<<<<<<<<<<< that there were only a couple thousand made, and {they should be preserved, and etc.} >>>>>>>>>>>>> {{{{{{{{{{{you really need to read slowly fore you start professing bout what I wrote. No offense. Upon reading you, I assumed you maybe, { didn't understand my post but by further reading your comment it was disclosed to me that you commented on my writings for what you wanted}}}}}}}}}}}}}}. One has to be ultra careful not disrupt the nitpickers that abound. P.S. I couldn't care less if there were only 2 original as per factory speedsters left in existence as long as one of them belonged to me. cheers jimmijim



<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<My thought is that if that is how they feel,>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> THEY should have bought the car to ensure it happened like that.<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Sure, I can understand their point, that one less "all original" Speedster is a much larger loss percentage-wise, than say one less '60 Lark. But if the next owner after you wants to make it original, it's not going to be impossible. From what I understand, you're not modding into a gasser or tubbing out the rear end or cutting some huge hole for an oversized scoop.

YOUR car, YOUR money, YOUR decisions. For the record, if I were in exactly your shoes, I'd probably do exactly the same thing you're talking about.

JimC
08-14-2013, 01:22 AM
Jim,

No need to get worked up. I wasn't talking to or about you. I was just saying in general, there are people here who will try to encourage him to keep it original, and if his plan works, he aught to stick with it. As you yourself pointed out, what I wrote didn't line up with what you said. (That's because I wasn't commenting on what you wrote. ;) )

I don't condone petty games like making jabs or criticizing people without facing them. If I was talking about you or anyone in particular, your/their name would have been in my post. It was and is just a general reminder.

Cheers. :)

GThawkwind
08-14-2013, 01:43 AM
While I would likely install whatever motor seems best. One thing I would be sure to do is keep the original motor back, maybe in a crate or something in the basement. That way if you ever decided to blow the money to rebuild an engine you could do it to the original. Your using the original trans case so no need to keep the old crap guts, but the motor I would save. I've heard of people doing this and having it pay off in the end.
BTW what color was and what color will be your speedster?

JimC
08-14-2013, 01:47 AM
While I would likely install whatever motor seems best. One thing I would be sure to do is keep the original motor back, maybe in a crate or something in the basement. That way if you ever decided to blow the money to rebuild an engine you could do it to the original. Your using the original trans case so no need to keep the old crap guts, but the motor I would save. I've heard of people doing this and having it pay off in the end.
BTW what color was and what color will be your speedster?
True, and even just having the "numbers matching" engine to go with the car will help with a sale should you ever need to do so. I too would keep the original motor from the car.

jimmijim8
08-14-2013, 04:18 AM
Sorry jim. I am talking to you and I am not all worked up at anything or would have recollected the production number of just exactly how many Speedsters were built instead of sorta/kinda rounding the number off. You used the same figure. the same close amount. jus fergit it. Get ahold of his Lark. Put your paint scheme on it. cheers jimmijim
Jim,

No need to get worked up. I wasn't talking to or about you. I was just saying in general, there are people here who will try to encourage him to keep it original, and if his plan works, he aught to stick with it. As you yourself pointed out, what I wrote didn't line up with what you said. (That's because I wasn't commenting on what you wrote. ;) )

I don't condone petty games like making jabs or criticizing people without facing them. If I was talking about you or anyone in particular, your/their name would have been in my post. It was and is just a general reminder.

Cheers. :)

mmagic
08-14-2013, 08:56 AM
A partner/friend/mentor who does 50 to 80 minor to major restore and flips a year has repeatedly schooled me that matching numbers generally only matters to sale value on Corvettes and in that breed they're down right anal! I currently have a 62 Galaxie 500 XL Convertible with a 50 something motor of a size not available in '62. It didn't meet reserve at Phoenix but not even one show lot tire kicker asked if it was a matching numbers car.

I agree that if I follow through on the swap plan, I'd want to keep the original engine as a backup/spare as they aren't making a lot of these anymore!

The issue I'm losing sleep over is the steering column, floor shifter, PS dilemma I have. I'm sure I can "Pull and Save" the parts for that swap for pennies compared to restoring and replacing to original but that would be a substantial appearance change that could impact value to the purist. As my intent is to drive this car rather than flip it my lean on this point is for driver comfort and safety or do the swap.

Color is back to original, Pimlico Gray and Oxford Ivory like this one:
26635

Flashback
08-14-2013, 11:03 AM
You don't need to ask this bunch. We all got different ideas. LOL Here's mine: You need to "Trap Yourself" That means Make up your mind on the engine NOW. Then Put the Lark on e-bay. Then ya gotta move in one direction. Ask me, How do I know this. LOL

mmagic
08-14-2013, 05:03 PM
f back... the final engine decision will be made when I open one or both up. And yes at that point the Lark will go ebay unless someone on the Board speaks up first.