Brakes: looking for some help with brakes

[Deadbodyman]

Hey guys there are a lot of smart people with advice and suggestions on here and im hoping somone can help.

Im working on my 49 r5. We did the SBC engine/trans and rear swap. We wanted to use the the donor master cylindar and booster but its huge.

Its going to be hard to mount it on the firewall and we would like to do an under the cab/ on the frame type install but the chevy combo is too big with the booster and we were afraid the studes master cylindar just wouldnt hack it.

I have the factory chevy drum brakes in the rear and disc front brakes from a mustang II IFS install.

So my question is, whats your thought on the studes master cyl. Also do you guys think with my set up, would i need the booster? Could i just run the master cylindar from the chevy and not have an issue?

[JoeHall]

I think a Turner MC mount kit, with tandem MC would work just fine. No need for a booster. Also, being the creative guy you are, you may be able to come up with your own mount provision for the tandem MC you already have.

[Deadbodyman]

Yeh right now the mount is the least concern. Its more of what master cylindar will get the job done and what can fit under there.

Our options now are:
1: use the studes. But doesnt seem to be heavy duty enough to perform.

2: use the chevys without the booster. We just didnt know if that was smart?

3; buy some aftermarket setup that is smaller. But we would like to save money and extra work.

[sweetolbob]

I think a Turner MC mount kit, with tandem MC would work just fine. No need for a booster. Also, being the creative guy you are, you may be able to come up with your own mount provision for the tandem MC you already have.

Along with what Joe says, compare the donor M/C to one required for the MII install for volume and stroke. If close, you are probably OK but I'd look into an adjustable proportioning valve to be sure the front and rear are properly balanced to provide the correct application of the brakes. Trucks come on different than cars IIRC.

Bob

[StudeRich]

It would be important to know WHAT Chevy Master Cylinder?
There are Many, many GM Cylinders all different sizes.
Is it a firewall mount Dual Master?
Single under floor model?
What is the bore size?

Most years 1/2 Ton Stude. pickups have 1 inch bore the same as a Stude. Car and 1 1/8" on 3/4 Ton, 1 1/4 Inch on 1 Ton, if that gives you somewhere to start.

You will need the correct residual valves and a front/rear Proportioning Valve.

[JoeHall]

A 1" bore MC will fit the bill just fine. At least it does on my cars with HUGE front calipers and 12" rotors & stock Stude rear 7/8" (?) wheel cylinders & 10" drums. I use the MC that is same as 64-66 Studes with firewall mounted.

[jclary]

Hey...while you're at it...how 'bout checking out the system NASCAR drivers use. That way, you can "dial-in" your brakes for the performance you want. Then...when you arrive back home after a successful trip to the grocery store...you can thrill your wife and neighbors by applying front brakes and performing a celebratory "BURNOUT!"

[Deadbodyman]

It came off. 1990 silverado 1500. It was a dual m/c with booster. Not sure the bore but its at least an inch. The damn thing was computerized and all that but it all comes off and can be used without.

Again i guess the biggest concern for us was with our set up would the m/c perform ok without the booster considering we dont have power brakes and the booster is whats really in the way.

[JoeHall]

At risk of insulting your intelligence, consider this: the larger the MC bore, the less pedal travel required to apply the brakes, but the more pressure required. If yours is 1" or 1, 1/16" it will probably be just fine. Larger, and the pedal will be too hard. Smaller, and the pedal will go to the floor and still not fully apply the brakes.

[Deadbodyman]

Thanks for all the imput guys!