Hello Roy,
Al Campion here with AutoReWire.com in Galt, CA.
Sorry for the poor cell phone coverage at my father-in-laws place....
Below is a short list of the things you need to do to upgrade to 12 volts. Feel free to give me a call anytime between 8 am and 9 pm... this is assuming that you are going to use an alternator like the GM 10SI. If you are using a 12 volt generator just replace the generator and the voltage regulator with 12 volt units and polorize after the re-installation of the battery.
Changing over from 6 volts to 12 volts couldn't be easier... It really is pretty straight forward. If your wires are in good shape they will handle the 12 volts just fine.
Remove the old Battery and DO NOT INSTALL THE NEW ONE UNTIL YOUR DONE.
ALTERNATOR
Remove the generator, voltage regulator and the wiring between the two. Mount a GM 10si alternator in place of the generator. You may have to change pulleys if you have and older engine that uses a wide V belt.
Splice a 10 gauge wire onto the BAT wire that went to the voltage regulator and connect it to the BAT terminal on the 10si GM alternator. Don't go to the trouble of buying a 1 wire alternator unless you just want to get a chrome unit. The factory 3 wire units will last longer and charge better. For more info on this subject go here. For information on part numbers and case clocking go here.
If you are using an ammeter in the dash DO NOT use an alternator larger than 63 amps and MAKE SURE that you install a 4 inch length of # 16 fusible link between the alternator and the ammeter so that the gauge does not become the fuse in the circuit. I install it at the alternator for ease of service if it should ever fail. Never install a fusible link in the passenger compartment.
If you have a dash indicator light splice a length of 20 or 18 gauge wire between the wire that went to the ARM on the voltage regulator and connect it to the # 1 terminal on the alternator. Go here for a drawing. If you DO NOT have a dash light you will need to run a 20 or 18 gauge wire from the IGN switch to the # 1 terminal on the alternator and install a 10 Ohm 10 Watt resistor somewhere in that line in a place where it has good air circulation. I have them in stock for $ 2.50 each includes shipping.
It is best to run a # 12 wire from the #2 terminal on the alternator to the BAT connector on the horn relay as apposed to just jumping it as shown in my drawing. If you read the Mark Hamilton article you know why.
OTHER PARTS
STARTER... Replace the starter solenoid with a 12 volt unit. The original 6 volt starter will work just fine for a long time if you do not crank it for long periods of time. Of course cranking any starter for long periods will burn 'em up but the 12 volt driven 6 volt starter will get hot quicker and throw solder sooner that a 12 volt unit
Reverse the polarity of the coil... or...(do as I do)...Replace the coil with a new 12 volt unit and install a new ceramic resistor. Wire from IGN to ceramic resistor to + @ coil from - @ coil to points. Install a new (like sized) condenser for a 12 vehicle. '55 or later GM should be the right size physically. If you are using an AMMETER reverse the polarity on it too.
Replace the horn relay with a 12 volt unit. I have them in stock but you can probably buy one locally for less.
Replace the headlamps and all of the light bulbs with new 12 volt units.
Install one of our $3.00 (each) voltage reducers for each of your electrical dash gauges.
Install a 1 Ohm ceramic reducer on the wire leading to the heater switch. In stock $ 22.00 each.
If you have electric wipers you will need to install a 1.5 Ohm ceramic reducer between the switch and the motor. In stock $ 20.00 each.
These ceramic reducers get hot.... Make sure they are installed so that they are not touching any other wires and are in an area where they can dissipate heat.
Change turn signal flasher to a 12 volt unit. $ 3.50 each our price.
Final Check: Check the coil polarity. + to IGN - to points
Al Campion here with AutoReWire.com in Galt, CA.
Sorry for the poor cell phone coverage at my father-in-laws place....
Below is a short list of the things you need to do to upgrade to 12 volts. Feel free to give me a call anytime between 8 am and 9 pm... this is assuming that you are going to use an alternator like the GM 10SI. If you are using a 12 volt generator just replace the generator and the voltage regulator with 12 volt units and polorize after the re-installation of the battery.
Changing over from 6 volts to 12 volts couldn't be easier... It really is pretty straight forward. If your wires are in good shape they will handle the 12 volts just fine.
Remove the old Battery and DO NOT INSTALL THE NEW ONE UNTIL YOUR DONE.
ALTERNATOR
Remove the generator, voltage regulator and the wiring between the two. Mount a GM 10si alternator in place of the generator. You may have to change pulleys if you have and older engine that uses a wide V belt.
Splice a 10 gauge wire onto the BAT wire that went to the voltage regulator and connect it to the BAT terminal on the 10si GM alternator. Don't go to the trouble of buying a 1 wire alternator unless you just want to get a chrome unit. The factory 3 wire units will last longer and charge better. For more info on this subject go here. For information on part numbers and case clocking go here.
If you are using an ammeter in the dash DO NOT use an alternator larger than 63 amps and MAKE SURE that you install a 4 inch length of # 16 fusible link between the alternator and the ammeter so that the gauge does not become the fuse in the circuit. I install it at the alternator for ease of service if it should ever fail. Never install a fusible link in the passenger compartment.
If you have a dash indicator light splice a length of 20 or 18 gauge wire between the wire that went to the ARM on the voltage regulator and connect it to the # 1 terminal on the alternator. Go here for a drawing. If you DO NOT have a dash light you will need to run a 20 or 18 gauge wire from the IGN switch to the # 1 terminal on the alternator and install a 10 Ohm 10 Watt resistor somewhere in that line in a place where it has good air circulation. I have them in stock for $ 2.50 each includes shipping.
It is best to run a # 12 wire from the #2 terminal on the alternator to the BAT connector on the horn relay as apposed to just jumping it as shown in my drawing. If you read the Mark Hamilton article you know why.
OTHER PARTS
STARTER... Replace the starter solenoid with a 12 volt unit. The original 6 volt starter will work just fine for a long time if you do not crank it for long periods of time. Of course cranking any starter for long periods will burn 'em up but the 12 volt driven 6 volt starter will get hot quicker and throw solder sooner that a 12 volt unit
Reverse the polarity of the coil... or...(do as I do)...Replace the coil with a new 12 volt unit and install a new ceramic resistor. Wire from IGN to ceramic resistor to + @ coil from - @ coil to points. Install a new (like sized) condenser for a 12 vehicle. '55 or later GM should be the right size physically. If you are using an AMMETER reverse the polarity on it too.
Replace the horn relay with a 12 volt unit. I have them in stock but you can probably buy one locally for less.
Replace the headlamps and all of the light bulbs with new 12 volt units.
Install one of our $3.00 (each) voltage reducers for each of your electrical dash gauges.
Install a 1 Ohm ceramic reducer on the wire leading to the heater switch. In stock $ 22.00 each.
If you have electric wipers you will need to install a 1.5 Ohm ceramic reducer between the switch and the motor. In stock $ 20.00 each.
These ceramic reducers get hot.... Make sure they are installed so that they are not touching any other wires and are in an area where they can dissipate heat.
Change turn signal flasher to a 12 volt unit. $ 3.50 each our price.
Final Check: Check the coil polarity. + to IGN - to points