Rough guestimates - cost of a late V8 flightomatic?

[JimC]

What can someone expect to pay for a working, quiet, V8 filgtomatic? Mine has been a bit noisy since I bought my car. Once I'm done fine tuning my carb, it's next on my list, and I'm going to open it up soon to see what's going on. I'm trying to be prepared for worst case scenarios. Am I correct in guessing that if you had to swap it out, you can leave the torque converter in place, or does the whole assembly need to come out?

Thanks!

[GThawkwind]

I know at ewe pull it in Sioux falls there are two 63 wagons with auto and sliding glass rear roof. But you would nothing about those since the cars don't run.

[StudeRich]

If all you are hearing is a buzzing, chattering kind of sound, it is just the Throttle Pressure Valve "hunting" because it is low on Oil, or the throttle Pressure adjustment is not per the book.

This often happens from an improper installation of a Edelbrock AFB Clone Carb. or badly worn Engine Mounts.

[jackb]

around here a good thorough rebuild tops @ $750. guarantee ! If you can drive the car that the tranny is coming from .. you're in your business. If a tranny is laying on the shop floor, or worse...$250-300. from a reputable Stude person.....$100 from a stranger (!) or online purchase......keep in mind the old adage : "I know what I've got..."

[thunderations]

You don't want to keep an old converter due to the old fluid and any contaminates in it getting into a new transmission. ALWAYS use a new/rebuilt converter.

[toymobile]

pull the torque conv with it and put back the same way FRONT PUMP very easy to crack unless conv is already in trans, ASK ME HOW I KNOW

[JimC]

This often happens from an improper installation of a Edelbrock AFB Clone Carb. or badly worn Engine Mounts.

I considered that, as I just recently installed the Carter (Mine's an original, not a clone though), but it's always had these issues (the noise and occasional slow starts), even back with my old carb that was installed in the factory. I've adjusted it several times at, above, and below shop manual specs since the new carb install, and the sound in question never seems to go away on test drives. I know when I get it out of whack however, because I will get a loud, almost "electrical" buzz when in reverse. It's a very different sound from the relatively quiet, though persistent almost grinding noise the transmission has always made. I'll grab my shop manual though and double check again, just to be sure.

Like I said, I'll probably know more after I get time to open the pan and look. I'm just thinking through all the worst case scenarios. I know at one point with a previous owner my differential got run without hardly any oil, and has a bit of a ringing noise because of it. I wonder if something similar happened to the transmission at some point.

[JimC]

pull the torque conv with it and put back the same way FRONT PUMP very easy to crack unless conv is already in trans, ASK ME HOW I KNOW

Yikes! Good point. Thanks!

[SN-60]

pull the torque conv with it and put back the same way FRONT PUMP very easy to crack unless conv is already in trans, ASK ME HOW I KNOW

If You're going that route, it just might be easier to pull the entire engine/trans combo out of the vehicle.

[JimC]

Alternate question: what other non-original automatic transmissions out there would swap in fairly easily? I'm thinking that a 4 speed automatic would improve fuel economy, but then I really have no clue what works with the Stude 259. Auto. transmissions seem a little like dark magic to me, so I've avoided that world as much as possible.

[JoeHall]

If I wind up putting a 700R in the wife's 63GT, I'd give you an excellent FOM. However, thats just the problem, so far it has been trouble-free for the past 11 months and 6,000 miles. Its the one thing on the car I have not turned a bolt on, or even added ATF to. I am guessing it was rebuilt around 10-15 years ago, by someone who obviously knew what they were doing. So, it has became the last thing on the list, and may never be changed. (If it ain't broke, don't fix it.)

So, that shows they can be real good trannys. Maybe yours is worth fixing. But if its only noise you are concerned with, I'd drive it till it was VERY noisy before trying to fix it. It its only a little noisy, you'd probably have trouble finding the source if you tore it down.