Anyone using "Slick Street Stuff's" suspension?

[tstclr]

I've seen the ad in Turning Wheels. Anyone using it? What do you think of it? How was installation? It seems kind of pricey but it might be nice to have modern front end components in my 63.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

[sbca96]

So far no one has come forward with a successful install, and yes its
a LOT of money to end up with Mustang II parts. Its open for debate
if its any improvement at all really. One thing that might be worth
more investigation is the R&P install that uses the stock tierods. It
would probably give the best bang for your buck. That said, a good
rebuild on the stock parts will also make a huge difference. When you
add up all the worn parts on most Studebakers, its a wonder they even
are able to stay in one lane going down the freeway.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by sbca96
and yes its a LOT of money to end up with Mustang II parts.

You sure about that? It doesn't look like ANYTHING Mustang II in their kits to me.

http://www.studebakervendors.com/slickstreet.htm

[sbca96]

Apparently you know better then I do, but I was under the impression
that Mustang II, Granada, and Pinto all used the same parts that ended
up being updated for Fox body Mustangs. Its old stuff now regardless,
dating back to 1975 .. Disco forever!

Tom

[wcarroll@outrageous.net]

I have (2) of these setups, one on my '54 Commander and the other on my '63 Avanti. I have had my issues with them. Neither car is roadworthy so I can't say much about their performance. I can however tell you what you get for the money: Custom tubular lower control arms, off the shelf after-market upper tubular control arms, a custom tubular rack mount, a Flaming River Unisteer R&P, Ford Granada spindles, front caliper brackets, a gigantic front sway bar, new ball mounts, tie-rod ends, hardware, bushings and seals. Yes it's expensive. But, considering the alternatives (Fatman), I chose to go with something I could install myself that was less permanent and better suited for the vehicles weight.

[tstclr]

Since I haven't started a teardown on my Lark front end, I'm trying to determine the best approach. Can anyone give me a rough idea as to what the total cost is for parts to rebuild the stock front end?
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

[sbca96]

In all honesty it depends on how worn your current suspension is, you
can blow a LOT of money rebuilding the king pins, but if they dont need
it than its just rubber bushings, bellcrank, tierods and such. Those
cross to a GM pickup truck on the earlier LONG tube/bar tierods.

You have to figure out how bad you are off and go from there.

Tom

quote:Originally posted by tstclr
Can anyone give me a rough idea as to what the total cost is for parts to rebuild the stock front end?

[1953 stude]

i put one in my 53 coupe i had to make new lower uuuer a frame mounts,too much bump steer and the caster angle was way off

[Mike Van Veghten]

Wayyyy too much money for what you get.
No better steering (according to one above...even worse!), no better brakes than can be had from outside Stude manufacturers.

So what do you get for your big bucks?

The top control arm should have been redesigned (would require frame modifications) to be mounted better and the steering should have been done much better.

So you get nothing positive in your driving, looks pretty, maybe a slight weight savings. Not much in "my" opinion for all the money.

Mike

[StudeDave57]

When I looked into this set-up I was told that it's 'designed' for the C/K bodies.
I was also told that they "may not exactly be a 'bolt-on' for your sedan".
They hadn't tried one on a sedan as yet, either. That was about three years ago.

StudeDave [8D]

[tstclr]

I'll stick with the stock suspension and a Turner disc brake upgrade. Still, the wild side of me thinks my little 2 door sedan would look cool as a gasser with a straight axle! Speedway motors sells a complete straight axle kit for all cars. If I did that I'd need more than a 259...
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

[mbstude]

That would be VERY cool, Todd. You know you'd have to hunt up an old Hemi, right? [8D]

A guy in my SDC chapter has a son building a straight axle gasser from a '56 Parkview wagon. He is planning to use a 500 Caddy powerplant.
I'll see if there's been any progress and get a pic or two.

Matthew Burnette
'59 Scotsman
'63 Daytona
Hazlehurst, GA

Cruising the Proving Ground Test Track

[tstclr]

Funny you should mention Caddy engines. A co worker is hot on Caddy engines and said I should put a Caddy 500C.I into it. I guess that would redefine the whole "Studillac" moniker.. I'd probaby twist the frame on Lark if did that! Realistically, I want my car to be tame enough to take on road trips.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan

[sbca96]

Lemme know if you want something more modern, for less money, and the
ability to upgrade later. Would require modern Ford steel wheels.

Tom

quote:Originally posted by tstclr

I'll stick with the stock suspension and a Turner disc brake upgrade.

[Mike Van Veghten]

The Cad idea isn't all that bad.
Remember...the throttle isn't an on-off switch!

Just like many of the cars that engine pushed down the road...I'd bet "most" of it was done fairly mildly!

While it might not get 30 miles to the gallon...tuned right with a set of 3.31's or 3.55 gears in the back...should come close to the average Stude milage of 16 to 18 MPG.

I did a 454 Chevy for my moms 72 Monte Carlo a few years back...on the road it consistantly got 18/19 MPG...
So it can be done if you do things carefully.

Mike