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studebaker-R2-4-me
07-16-2013, 10:21 PM
Replacing the front pads has been on my wish list for a couple of seasons. I finally found the time to go ahead and change them out, unfortunately the passenger side caliper had uneven wear between inner and outer pad. Upon cracking open the bleeder valve to push the caliper back to install the much thicker pad caused the seal to leak on the test drive. Stopping to think about things, I suppose the thicker pad on the outer caliper was due to it being frozen whereas the inner caliper pad was only about 3/16"+ thick. So needless to say the Hawk is grounded until I get some parts to fix the disc brake.:mad:

I am debating buying the repair kit for all 4 when 3 are fine. I hate to spend the money on the repair kit and then find myself taking apart all 4 calipers and breaking something else. I think I might be further ahead just buying one new caliper installing it and be done and back driving the Hawk again.

Any thoughts?


Allen

JDP
07-16-2013, 10:57 PM
Replacing the front pads has been on my wish list for a couple of seasons. I finally found the time to go ahead and change them out, unfortunately the passenger side caliper had uneven wear between inner and outer pad. Upon cracking open the bleeder valve to push the caliper back to install the much thicker pad caused the seal to leak on the test drive. Stopping to think about things, I suppose the thicker pad on the outer caliper was due to it being frozen whereas the inner caliper pad was only about 3/16"+ thick. So needless to say the Hawk is grounded until I get some parts to fix the disc brake.:mad:

I am debating buying the repair kit for all 4 when 3 are fine. I hate to spend the money on the repair kit and then find myself taking apart all 4 calipers and breaking something else. I think I might be further ahead just buying one new caliper installing it and be done and back driving the Hawk again.

Any thoughts?


Allen


Buy the kits, but be aware you might need a lot more. Often the caliper bores are pitted and need to be resleeved, you may need hoses, maybe even new steel cross over lines. Cutting corners on a single master cylinder car is a invitation to a disaster, do it correctly, or count on the car ahead of you to stop your forward motion. I've done the job dozens of times, and with only a few exceptions, it takes more than $100 worth of kits. BTW, if one or more pistons are frozen, the bores will be crap, count on it.

StudeRich
07-17-2013, 12:02 AM
It sounds like your problem could be the "Saddle" the Calipers mount on, was not properly Centered with the correct shims causing the uneven wear.
I agree with JDP if the system has not been totally gone through in the last few years and it is running DOT 3 it may be time to do it ALL.

HAWK64
07-17-2013, 01:18 AM
It sounds like your problem could be the "Saddle" the Calipers mount on, was not properly Centered with the correct shims causing the uneven wear.
I agree with JDP if the system has not been totally gone through in the last few years and it is running DOT 3 it may be time to do it ALL.

I agree it is critical to have the Caliper Bridge centralised via the various shim sizes. I know I had all my cylinder blocks resleeved in stainless many years ago & have had no trouble with the front disc brakes except for change of pads through routine wear.

Rerun
07-17-2013, 04:14 AM
This is probably a good time to consider upgrading to Turner brakes. As JDP noted, your calipers will probably need to be sleeved. Check the condition of your rotors, and their thickness. If they need to be replaced, it can also add $$$ to the project.

2R5
07-17-2013, 05:21 AM
I agree with Jim , its time you upgrade to Turner brakes , it will save you money in the long run and your car will stop the way you want it to !

jimmijim8
07-17-2013, 06:50 AM
Mayhaps not as good as more modern disc brakes but I prefer the Bendix Dunlop for originality/lighter. There is a company in the US CALLED { HYDRA CYL} that makes a complete working bolt on cylinder. Ain't cheap, But lifetime at 219.00 each last time I looked. Holy heck but people buy 'em. They sell you a bit bigger diameter cyl that they claim will enhance your brakes. cheers jimmijim

PackardV8
07-17-2013, 10:03 AM
Reason for most brake system problems is brake fluid is hydroscopic; it absorbs water from the air. The water coalesces in the low points of the system and rusts cylinder bores and lines.

For whatever reason, most drivers have never gotten the message brake fluid needs changing just like oil. If a brake system is completely flushed every 2-3 years, depending upon the humidity of the area, brake systems last pretty much forever.

Since the OP already had one stuck piston, I'd agree with JDP, the others are likely to have some problems. Do 'em once, do 'em all, do 'em right.

If the OEM system is all new and correct, it stops the car fine, and should last. Only if the rotors are toast or all four caliper bores have to be sleeved/replaced does it become cost-efficient to change to another system.

If so, then agree, the Turner kit is a known quantity.

jack vines

SN-60
07-17-2013, 10:25 AM
I like the disc brakes used on the '85 Avanti, although they are apparently something of a rarity. It utilizes easy to source '84 Chevy Camaro components, with a simple bracket that Blake had made up to adapt the caliper bridge to the stock Studebaker spindle.

sweetolbob
07-17-2013, 10:45 AM
I like the disc brakes used on the '85 Avanti, although they are apparently something of a rarity. It utilizes easy to source '84 Chevy Camaro components, with a simple bracket that Blake had made up to adapt the caliper bridge to the stock Studebaker spindle.

Essentially the Turner system, 90's S-10 4X4 calipers and Older Ford rotors vs all 84 Camaro. Trade off is the Ford Rotors vs changing your bolt pattern and/or wheels on the Camaro setup. FWIW, the Camaro rotors are slightly smaller than the older Ford.

I chose Turner for my 74 and they are a well designed and built setup. An even better, Jim is just an email away.

Bob

Flashback
07-17-2013, 10:55 AM
If you decide to keep the original then do both front at least. This will stop the pulling

gordr
07-17-2013, 11:10 AM
Allen, you run, or have thought about running, in the PSMCD races, right? In which case you need to keep stock brakes, right? If so, I'd recommend you mike your rotors for thickness, and then replace all four cylinders with new or resleeved. And buy new bridge lines and flex hoses, too. The bridge lines can be a PITA to change, and the flex hoses, unless recently replaced, are probably past their best-before date.

If keeping the car 100% stock is not an issue, then I would also recommend the Turner brakes. You could defray some of the expense by selling off the old parts, which will be sought after by somebody. Get his under-floor dual master with booster, and you can kiss that ugly Hydrovac under the hood goodbye, too.

studebaker-R2-4-me
07-17-2013, 11:16 AM
Thanks for the responses guys. The braking disc brake system was gone through 7 years ago when I first got the car. I've changed and flushed the DOT3 fluid 3 to 4 times since ownership. I've got one marginal caliper. All calipers compressed easily when I pried them back to install the pads. I'm a little bummed and surprised that this one is leaking. I've decided to order the repair kit and deal with any pitting with pyro-putty, sand them out and rebuild all of them if necessary. I don't think any of them are that bad but you just don't know until I tear it all apart.

Mostly bummed because it takes me away from finishing off Caroline's Lark and getting the rebuilt engine and drive train installed.

Allen

WCP
07-17-2013, 12:21 PM
Allen, I have 4 SS sleeved cylinders that I never used as well as 2 NOS fully loaded calipers with cylinders (pads, crossovers and bleeders) that have been on the shelf (heated storage) for many years. PM me if you are interested and we'll see what we can work out.

Studebakercenteroforegon
07-17-2013, 01:34 PM
Studebaker International has NEW 1558182 Cylinder Assemblies at $99.95 each. Typically, on my own disc brake equipped Studebakers, I'll install four new assemblies and be done with it. The Bendix/Dunlop disc brakes are fully supported with replacement part availability - crossover tube assemblies, inlet tube assemblies, etc. so I am quite happy to keep the original system on my Studebakers.

SN-60
07-17-2013, 02:59 PM
Essentially the Turner system, 90's S-10 4X4 calipers and Older Ford rotors vs all 84 Camaro. Trade off is the Ford Rotors vs changing your bolt pattern and/or wheels on the Camaro setup. FWIW, the Camaro rotors are slightly smaller than the older Ford.

I chose Turner for my 74 and they are a well designed and built setup. An even better, Jim is just an email away.

Bob

Blake solved the bolt pattern issue with special adapters that pemanently bolt on to the Camaro rotors. Then the Stude/Ford wheels bolt to the adapters. These adapters add about 1" (total) to the front track. And You're correct, the Camaro rotors do have a smaller O.D. than the Ford. They stop the car very well though, and replacement parts are common, and extremely reasonable in price.

WCP
07-17-2013, 10:03 PM
Part 1558182 would be a cylinder assembly, rather than a caliper assembly - 2 cylinder assemblies mounted on a caliper make a caliper assembly. Mine are complete with cross-overs, pads and pad retainers, ready to mount over the rotor, all NOS.

plwindish
07-17-2013, 10:15 PM
I would also recommend the Turner Brake system. I have it on my 76 and have been very pleased with it.

studebaker-R2-4-me
07-18-2013, 07:21 AM
Hey thanks again for the responses guys. The Turner system is TOTALLY out for me on this car due to the PSMCDR, as with an aluminum radiator. I would like both in this car but can't do it. I've installed the Turner brake system in my Lark convertible build and I'm SOLD on it. It is big enough to stop a MAC truck!

I have measured the rotors on the Hawk and they are fine, and have a spare set as well. The calipers that I do have as spares are junk and bought them at a swap meet with the rotors attached on the chance I could rebuild them. They are rusted shut but did get the rotors, shims, bridges, bolts, etc out of the deal for $45 for the pair.

WCP, Private message is coming your way.

Allen