Brakes: Turner Brake M/C Install problem

[60Stude]

In '08 I bought a Turner dual M/C kit and everything else to go through my braking system from Stephen Allen's. As these projects sometimes go, I'm just now doing the job. I am trying to get this car back on the road this summer after sitting neglected since about 1998. I have already reconditioned all 4 brakes, new hoses, and I have new lines to run even though the stock lines look really good.

Following the instructions, I had no problems removing the old M/C (it's always nice how all the bolts are coated with oil/grease for easy removal!) and lines. I installed the bracket. The short brake pedal brace bracket furnished by Turner was way to long. Instructions say that can be a problem on some models, and to modify either the new or old bracket. I decided it was easier to modify the original bracket, so I did, and got it all bolted up.

Now comes time to install the M/C. I bought the one suggested on the supplied instructions from Carquest, cross-referenced to the Wagner part number F 49275, Carquest # E56193.

The end of the M/C strikes the brace that goes from the frame to the edge of the body so it won't go into position.

Have any of you encountered this problem before? Is there a yet-shorter M/C I can use? I e-mailed Mr. Turner, but of course now that I'm going on this if I can figure it out now I'd like to.

My project is a '60 Lark Regal 4-door station wagon with a V8 and auto trans.

Pictures are attached for your reference.

Thanks,
Michael

[52 Ragtop]

Michael,
You have the correct m/c. In the instructions, there is a note in there regarding the rear body brace.

************** PLEASE NOTE ON SOME APPLICATIONS***************

Also, a note regarding the m/c brace.

************** PLEASE NOTE ON SOME APPLICATIONS***************

Again, some models may have a different length from the brake pedal to the master cylinder bracket. If you run across this, you can use the stock bracket and cut it to the correct length and bend it in a vise, or modify the supplied bracket to work. In either case, YOU NEED TO INSTALL THIS BRACKET! It ties the pedal to the master cylinder for strength.

Jim

[60Stude]

Hi Jim,

I am not sure how I missed that instruction! I read the message about the brake pedal brace (modified it) but missed the one on drilling the hole in the body support brace. I didn't want to cut unless I had to for sure.

Thanks again for your help.

Michael

[60Stude]

I cut the body brace, which allowed me to get the MC into place.

However, with the lid off, I only have about 1/2" clearance above the rear of the MC, which won't allow the lid/bail to go on.

I'm going to see if the MC is the correct one with the Raybestos number Jim gave me in an e-mail today. Otherwise I have a new problem.

Michael

[acolds]

Mine is not a Turner kit as I made my own but did cut the hole in the floor larger. Made a the cover larger to to allow complete access to remove and close the lid on the master cylinder (which is a AMC part for drum brakes with 1 inch piston same as the stock Studeabaker master cylinder) with the wire being easier to get on and off from inside the car. I made the cover to fit the contour of floor pan attached with four bolts.

[60Stude]

Thanks, acolds, I think I'm going to cut the hole bigger as well. Even if the lid and bail would go on under the floor as it is now, it looks like a hassle to fill the cylinder even if you cut the additional smaller hole as Jim Turner suggests. I think I will cut the hole directly over the MC as you did, cut new sheet metal to go over the hole, and have the local metal shop roll the edge of it for me to add a little strength.

Michael