Electrical: Alternator wiring

[valleyguy]

I am trying to convert my GM 1 wire alternator on my truck to a three wire using a Japanese
alternator. I am using a nos regulator from S.I. The guage shows it charging when the motor is running, but then it drains the battery overnight. Any thoughts? Also, Is there supposed a condensor somewhere in the circuit?

Thanks,
Joe D.

[Dan White]

Why are you using a external regulator? The GM 1 one wire and whatever Japanese one you are trying to switch to are internally regulated! I don't know how you have it wired but it is probably not what it should be. Is the 1 wire working or is this the result with the 3 wire? There are a number of threads here on the forum on the various wiring diagrams for whatever you want to do, but not for using an external regulator with what you have.

[valleyguy]

Dan, the reason I am converting to Honda alternator is that it has a longer snout and lines up perfect with the fan pulley, whereas the GM unit did not. Also, the GM unit was noisy. I happened to have the new Honda Alternator laying in my parts bin from way back when (I had intended to use it in my Hawk but never did). I was told that the Honda unit was not internally regulated and was a three-wire hookup. Anyway.... I think I have it working correctly now, thanks to a member on the truck forum. Following his advice, I now have it wired as follows: a hot lead from the amp guage to the "B" terminal on the alternator (with an in-line fuse), a wire from the iginition switch to the "ign" terminal on the regulator, a wire from the "Field" terminal on the regulator to the "F" terminal on the alternator, and a ground wire from the "Ground" on the regulator to the "E" terminal on the alternator.

Seems to be working, the amp guage indiates charging when I start it up and let it run. I'll know for sure if this is correct after it sits overnight.

Thanks,

Joe D.

[irish]

I'm using the same Honda alternator you are using and I've been very happy with it, it has a much better fit and more of an original look than the GM one wire alternators. I think you have it hooked up correctly, let us know how it works out for you.

Joe

Dan, the reason I am converting to Honda alternator is that it has a longer snout and lines up perfect with the fan pulley, whereas the GM unit did not. Also, the GM unit was noisy. I happened to have the new Honda Alternator laying in my parts bin from way back when (I had intended to use it in my Hawk but never did). I was told that the Honda unit was not internally regulated and was a three-wire hookup. Anyway.... I think I have it working correctly now, thanks to a member on the truck forum. Following his advice, I now have it wired as follows: a hot lead from the amp guage to the "B" terminal on the alternator (with an in-line fuse), a wire from the iginition switch to the "ign" terminal on the regulator, a wire from the "Field" terminal on the regulator to the "F" terminal on the alternator, and a ground wire from the "Ground" on the regulator to the "E" terminal on the alternator.

Seems to be working, the amp guage indiates charging when I start it up and let it run. I'll know for sure if this is correct after it sits overnight.

Thanks,

Joe D.

[valleyguy]

Joe, the re-wire seems to have done the trick. It's working fine now, with no loss of battery charge overnight, and the amp shows charging with the motor running.

Yes, the Honda unit does fit well and looks nice. I'm sure glad there are people on this site and the truck forum always ready to help out.

Joe d.

[JLB]

Joe can you tell me what the application is for the Honda Alternator and the Amp rating, if you know it.
Thanks
John

[valleyguy]

John, mine is a Denso 35-amp, which is enough for my truck. The application is a 76-79 Honda Civic,
like this: I belive you can get either a 35 or 45 amp unit.

http://www.carquest.com/product_Reman+Alternators+By+BBB+Industries__10151_-1_10651_210664_32711?acesApp=1

The key difference is that there are two bosses on the bottom for the lower bracket (versus one boss on the GM types), and a longer snout on the front which lines up exactly with the fan pulley (at least it does on my truck, a 2R6 with the big 6 motor). Hope this helps.

Joe D.

[JLB]

Dan, the reason I am converting to Honda alternator is that it has a longer snout and lines up perfect with the fan pulley, whereas the GM unit did not. Also, the GM unit was noisy. I happened to have the new Honda Alternator laying in my parts bin from way back when (I had intended to use it in my Hawk but never did). I was told that the Honda unit was not internally regulated and was a three-wire hookup. Anyway.... I think I have it working correctly now, thanks to a member on the truck forum. Following his advice, I now have it wired as follows: a hot lead from the amp guage to the "B" terminal on the alternator (with an in-line fuse), a wire from the iginition switch to the "ign" terminal on the regulator, a wire from the "Field" terminal on the regulator to the "F" terminal on the alternator, and a ground wire from the "Ground" on the regulator to the "E" terminal on the alternator.

Seems to be working, the amp guage indiates charging when I start it up and let it run. I'll know for sure if this is correct after it sits overnight.

Thanks,

Joe D.

Thanks for the application information. NAPA 's site says there are alternators from 35 to 50 amps for this application.
I've got a question about your wiring description as I really want to make this change an get a little more amps available.
The plug on the alternator has 3 wires per the NAPA site. E , F and N.
Your wiring instructions , if I understand them, has: A hot lead from the amp gauge to the "B" terminal on the alternator.
A wire from the ignition switch to the "ign" terminal on the regulator
A wire from the "Field" terminal on the regulator to the "F" terminal on
on the Alternator
A wire from the "Ground" on the regulator to the "E" terminal on the alternator
My take is that as described there are two wires going to the "F/(B)" terminal on the alternator and nothing going to "N". As I said earlier, I really want to do this but don't want to "toast" the electrical system by hooking it up incorrectly. Any clarification would be appreciated.
Thanks
John

[valleyguy]

John the above is correct except that the "B" post and "F" terminal on the alternator are separate. (The "B" (battery) is a lug with a nut and washer, and this wire will always be hot, I used 10g wire)),

The F, E, N are blade connectors). - The "N" blade/connector is not used.

http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad31/jadiggle1/002-2.jpg

Joe d.