Electrical: 52 Champion, loose wire under hood. Where does it go.

[poweroptions]

I got my car back from the shop in town after a frickin 1 1/2yrs. I have a heavier gauge wire with an eyelet dangling under the hood in the vicinity of the starter and distributor. This wire is one of two heavier wires that come out of the harness between the OD relay and OD switch. Of these 2 wires one is attached to the starter solenoid, the other is just hanging. I went back to the shop and they don't remember where it goes, then said it wasn't connected. BS ! I know it was connected to something. Do any of you have a photograph of the wiring in this area or does someone know where it goes. I've been studying the diagram in my 51 manual with my magnifying glass but I can't figure this out. I want to be sure 100% so I don't damage something. My OD is working but my car is cutting out it seems like to me as I go down the road. TY !

[52-fan]

If you could post a picture of the wire showing its location maybe we could tell from that. I no longer have my Champion, but I might recognize the wire.

[warrlaw1]

Without a picture from you it would be darn hard to tell. Could be hillholder, could be a ground wire to your voltage regulator, Sounds like you are having ignition problems. A bad starter can also short out your voltage regulator's "interrupter" between battery and generator...and your car will run like crap. Is it 6V or converted to 12V? Your shop manual shows how to check your voltage regulator and generator with just an 8" 16 gauge jumper wire. Also the generator and regulator need to be re-polarized whenever they are disconnected. That will also cause problems. Slow down, read the steps in the shop manual and get a jumper wire to help diagnose.

[poweroptions]

Still a 6 volt system. This car had not been starting, (previous post Champion won't start) It spent 1 1/2 years at the mechanics. I got it back. The shop had installed a 8V battery and changed the regulator to 8.9V to remedy the starting problem. I told them to remove it all. I wanted my 6V back I didn't want to worry about screwing up my radio, gas gauge and other accs. I've had the car for years and it always ran great before. They were frustrated with it and I with them. They told me to come get the car it was running. I live about 7 miles from town. I barely got home as it was cutting out once I got a load on the engine. It continues to cut out. I bought a 6V Optima battery and a NOS 6V Autolite regulator, that they installed. They rebuilt the starter. I doubt that it has be repolarized. I will go out and do that now. As far as the loose wire, I'm studying my diagram and I'm beginning to think it is to attach the distributor. My diagram shows 2 wires J and K attaching to the distributor. My wiring is still the original. I will have to wait for my buddy to help me put a picture on here. I don't know how to do it. This loose wire is factory bundled and leads out of the harness with the 4 wires to the OD switch. I do not have hill-holder. LORD where are the good mechanics these days?

[StudeRich]

The color of the wire insulation is supposed to tell you which wire in the Diagram it is, however if you have old faded cloth covered factory wiring that may be difficult. We are not talking LARGE wire like a Batt. cable are we?

My off the cuff guess would be the Overdrive Dist. cutout wire that I believe would only cause a failure when flooring the go pedal for a O.D. to direct downshift.

Here is your Diagram, thanks to Chuck Collins at Studebaker Parts.com:

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/pages/oldoverdrive.html

I was guessing the 16 Ga. Black wire from Term. #8 on the Kickdown Switch to the Distributor.

[poweroptions]

OK repolarized no difference. Stude Rich yes it's probably a 16-18 gauge wire. Yes all faded out wiring makes it hard to decipher. Sitting in the garage and revving it does not cut out, seems to run great. I get out on the road and at the top end of every gear it cuts out like a miss.

[poweroptions]

I have pics but I'll be dammed if I can get them to attach.

[poweroptions]

this is a test

[poweroptions]

Trying to add a picture.??!!

[poweroptions]

Well my buddy came by and he can't get pics to upload either and he is way more knowledgeable about computers. When we click the upload button nothing happens.

[poweroptions]

Well, going to try to attach a picture again.

[41 Frank]

The unhooked wire likely has nothing to do with the miss. I suggest checking point gap and condition, spark plug condition, plug wires,cap,rotor etc. If that doesn't work move back to Nebraska and I'll come over and help you figure it out. <GGG>

OK repolarized no difference. Stude Rich yes it's probably a 16-18 gauge wire. Yes all faded out wiring makes it hard to decipher. Sitting in the garage and revving it does not cut out, seems to run great. I get out on the road and at the top end of every gear it cuts out like a miss.

[poweroptions]

Frank after this car has been in the shop 1 1/2 years I don't now what other parts could possibly be thrown at it. Everything is new and everything hanging off the car is rebuilt. It could be point gap. 1 1/2 years ago I took this into the shop because it would refuse to start after getting hot when I'd come back to it after a errand. I had Flashback in AL. here on the forum rebuild the carb twice. It seemed to flood or gas would leak down after I'd turn it off because when I'd pull the air cleaner off there was vapor smoke in the throat of the carb. With the 6 volt system it took grinding on the starter and sitting for 1 hour to finally get it to start. I took it to a shop in town. At the shop they would tell me it was because the car had weak spark. I had the starter, generator, rebuilt also a new cap, rotor, condenser, points, copper core wires , new plugs. Still problems with starting. Ran a compression test 5 cylinders at 110-120, 1 at 100. I still think it to much gas. Carb pulled again, new needle and seat from SI. New wires inside cap from SI. Still problems, sometimes carb is soaked in gas. Bought a fancy pressure regulator installed it right ahead of carb, set at 3psi now. Heat shield and new fuel lines, tank boiled out and relined. Still problems. Then the guys at the shop installed a 8 volt battery. It starts finally after 1 1/2 yrs. I say no to the 8V battery and piss off the guys in the shop. I bought a 6V Optima battery and a hot 6V coil from Speedway in Lincoln when I'm home in Nebr.. Car starts easy when cold now. Guys at shop are over the car, say come get your car it's running. I barely get home because of it cutting out at the top end of every gear. Drive it slow it doesn't miss as bad, but misses. Get flipped off numerous times by courteous Texass drivers. I can't go over 50mph. Years back I could do 75 in overdrive all the time. Wire hanging under hood I think is from the OD switch to distributor. I hooked it up tonight that way, OD is still working. Now I'm thinking of rewiring car. It has it's original wiring and every gauge and option works but I will say the cloth wire is shedding it's insulation and I'm wrapping it in electrical tape under the hood, behind the dash is all OK however. Man every mechanic is bully around here. Don't want to work on old cars at all. I try doing all this myself but with a business open 7 days a week, and very elderly in laws to look after, the Champion has become a royal PITA. Being raised on the farm I do know quite a bit about mechanics but this Champion is wearing me down.

[41 Frank]

I hear ya man. I had forgotten about all the things you had done to this car to get it to start. I would still check the point gap though and check for loose distributor shaft bushings while in there.

[warrlaw1]

I agree with Frank. My situation is very close to yours. The garage next door boosted my 6V with a 12 V battery (just after installing the 6V pertronics!). I changed out the now bad regulator, but I bet it also hurt the pertronics. The advance is not right. Missing at acceleration. I have a new distributor coming from Dave Thibeault. Hope that helps. I'll let you know.