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59 Lark Leafspring Replacement

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  • Frame / Springs: 59 Lark Leafspring Replacement

    I finally got around to removing my drivers side rear leaf spring which snapped on me. (That made for a fun 450 mile drive) Mine are rust welded on really, really bad, so I cut them off with an angle grinder. I left the two shackle bars that hold the leafspring to the frame in the rear. I haven't created a list of things to but for the rear shocks yet so I am still unsure if I will be taking them off. in the front of the leafspring, the frame piece looks to be in decent condition, though I am planning on coating it in either POR15 or some other equivalent to prevent them from rusting to detrimental extent. Has anyone done that at all?

    Also, has anyone put a traction kit on their ride? I see stude-intl has a rear traction kit. Would any of ya'll recommend this?

  • #2
    On the factory traction "kit"...
    Save your money. If you think about how the spring wraps up when the gas is hit hard and how the "upper" bar works...it's all backward. The stiffining bar/spring wrap preventor, "needs" to be under the front of the spring to work correctly.

    I looked very closely at buying this kit and decided it's money spent and added weight for nothing.

    Mike

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    • #3
      I just finished doing a set of springs on my '64.
      I re arched the leaves and put in a extra leaf from a f-150 pickup.
      I'm replacing the coils because it sits pretty high on the rear.
      I got the bushings and ubolts from Studie Intern'l.

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      • #4
        I did not know that they made such a critter, but some people on this site have bought carbon fiber leafs....at least I think they were carbon fiber. They were not metal, so no rust. They actually sounded pretty cool. Don't know the cost. Maybe someone else could chime in....................

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        • #5
          Hmmm, carbon fiber? I'm excited, I can get my new shocks as well at AutoZone for only $20! Hopefully they detach from the plate easily. Those bushings for the leaf springs are pretty expensive though. Oh well, I know when it snapped that it wasn't gonna be fun.

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          • #6
            Bosshoss, thanks a ton for telling me about the carbon fiber springs, I'm gonna price them out. Just did my research and they're quite compelling. Also sounds like their cheaper! I may be going this route if I can.

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            • #7
              At first I thought they were BS----ing me. I've been messing with cars for nearly 50 years and-----carbon fiber leafs..Hey, no rust, no squeak and 30 lbs. lighter. WEIRD

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              • #8
                Man, I'm all about it. I saw the ones they make for Jeeps. If it can haul a jeep then go mudding, it'll work fine. Not to mention they use them on race cars. I'm gonna find out what to do to get some quotes here in a minute. I did take off both leaf springs and shocks today. Took me long enough to get around to it, they we're a serious pain in the hind though. Wait till I put up pictures. I still can't believe I drove from Valparaiso, IN to Nashville on that snapped leafspring, just lashed together. Worst ride EVAH! Not to mention I bought the car in Ohio, then drove it Chicago, drove it all around Chicago, then made my home. 1,000 miles the first couple days I owned the car.

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                • #9
                  Since you guys are talking leaf springs and shocks. I have air-shocks on my '59 Lark now, but it was because I got them for free to accommodate the large rear tires I had on it. I since put smaller tires on the rear now, just in case I'd lose air in my shocks. The old ones would have left me stranded if I lost all air in my shocks, which didn't suit me. My leaf springs are original as far as I know. The car has about 46,000 original miles. I'd like to put regular shocks on and eliminate those air-shocks, but I don't want the rear to sit real low either. Any suggestions on shocks to achieve this? Here is some photos of my car when I had the real large tires and I like the ride height. Keep in mind I put smaller tires on it now and they are no longer white walls. I can post an updated photo if this helps, but I thought I'd ask for some assistance first. Thanks everyone!! -Dave

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                  • #10
                    Demon; I don't see why putting it back to stock with ordinary Gabriel Gas Shocks would not put it level as it should be with P205X75R15 Tires all the way around, it should be almost level with the rear only 1/2 to 1 inch higher.

                    But those Fronts are WAY too small, which will still give it the same Rake.

                    Is this a Fast LOOKING '59 Lark VI (Six Cylinder) Engined Car or something actually
                    FAST?
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                    SDC Member Since 1967

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                    • #11
                      StudeRich, I am running P255/60R15 on the rear and 165R15 on the front. They are very skinny tires to achieve the 60's style drag car look. It was actually a 6 cyl. car when I bought it, but it has gone through a complete resto, just short of a frame-off. It has a 259ci V8, backed by a T-10 4 speed. It's not crazy fast by any means, but it sure is fun to drive. I like that I can adjust the rear height, but if it stays close to this, I'll get rid of those air-shocks.
                      Here is some photos of the resto:
                      This is my 1959 Studebaker I started restoring over a year ago. A work in progress.


                      Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

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                      • #12
                        Dave, you have done some really nice work on the Lark "nice welding too"
                        Joseph R. Zeiger

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                        • #13
                          That is actually my buddy doing the welding. That is one of many things I am not good at, especially on lighter gauge metal. He is a Master at his trade!!

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