Electrical: Condensers, ammeter, alternator and grounds

[BShaw]

Looking for confirmation or correction on some electrical stuff on my '60 Hawk.

1. There's a condenser on the coil...connects to the coil "+", right?

2. There's a condenser that was on the generator but I have went to a one-wire alternator. Is the condenser still needed? If so, connects to the output post (versus the case ground screw)?

3. My VDO electronic tach signal wire...connects to the coil "-" side, right?

4. Grounds... picked up a few heavy ground wires and figure more is better than less in an old car...my list of connections include:

• [*=1]Batt neg to a starter bolt
  [*=1]alternator case to motor
  [*=1]Motor to frame
  [*=1]Motor to firewall
  [*=1]Body to frame
  [*=1]Gas tank to frame
  [*=1]2nd body to frame in rear
  [*=1]Dash gauges/harness to body (inspect and add)
  [*=1]Oil gauge tube to firewall

5. Ammeter & alternator...as I say, put in a one-wire from Jegs along with their heavy gauge fused wiring to the B+ side of the starter solenoid. Plan is to bypass the ammeter by connecting the ammeter wires together (soldered). A voltmeter would replace the ammeter and wired to Acc of ignition switch. Question: what do I do with this black wire that was on the Batt terminal of the VR? I assume it has to get power (at least for the horn relay) but is the 12 ga wire to be connected to complete a circuit? (see pic)


If you spot anything that will cause my poor Hawk to burst in a ball of flames, please speak up!

[bezhawk]

I believe the heavy black wire is the + to the ammeter. If you leave it dissconnected, you will lose all power inside the car. Oops, I didn't read that you're bypassing the ammeter!. If that is the B+ wire, it still needs to supply voltage to the ignition switch.

[BShaw]

To further clarify my question #5, here is an edited portion of the ammeter circuit show the changes I "think" are appropriate for my purpose stated. As my notes in the pic show I would disconnect the wires from the ammeter and join them to eliminate the ammeter. Wire #2 from the B+ on the battery would power the ignition switch, headlights, dash, etc. via wires #25, 25B, 1B, et al.

Wire #25 that used to go to the "B" on the now removed regulator and still goes to the "B" on the horn relay. This constant hot and I should be able to delete the noted portion "1D" (or at least cap it), correct?


Edit: I should also note that wire #2 is 12 ga. red and wire #25/1D is 12 ga. black. The portion of #25 that goes to the horn relay is a smaller gauge black.

[StudeRich]

Yes that Voltage Regulator power wire is no longer needed. You should have a "Ignition Trigger" wire to the New Alternator Reg. (Internal or External) with switched power from the Ignition Switch, that kind of takes it's place.

You should be well Grounded enough to take a direct Lightening strike!
Actually all you need is a frame to Road metal impregnated Rubber Ground strap from the center of the car Frame (to be unnoticed).

[BShaw]

Hoo boy, Rich! How about a full width metal impregnated mud flap across the back like my dad had on his ol' Reo Gold Comet?

Okay, now I'm confused again...my "one-wire" alternator is exactly that, one wire that goes to the B+ battery side of the starter solenoid via a big a$$ fuse. Wassup with an "ignition trigger" wire?

[PlainBrownR2]

The ignition trigger wire is used on the GM's for a warning light. If the alternator fails to charge, the light comes on, telling you that something in the charging circuit quit working. I have the older three wire version on the '55 and my Lark, and I just use this to switch the alternator on or off. I had a moment of serendipity on the '55, because the switch I picked up had a light built into the switch. I had to replace an alternator on the car(I pulled it from one of our other vehicles here, not new), because the alternator quit working, triggering the light in the switch when the charging circuit was flipped on. So, I inadvertently built in an error light into my circuit because of the way the switch operates. Since yours is a one wire install, you may not have these other circuits, so just wire it to the B+, and if you need the light, just wire it inline with the B+ circuit, since it's internal.

[BShaw]

Looks like my wiring change is going to pass muster. As I'd mentioned before, I'll be installing a voltmeter in the dash in place of the ammeter.


Any thoughts on the condensers (items 1 & 2 in my post #1)?

[duncan1951]

Most likely they are radio static reduction condensers?

[BShaw]

Yes, that is their purpose. Question is, does one go to the + or - of the coil (my presumption is +) and is it recommended that the other one that used to be on the generator be put on the one-wire alternator?