Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yet Another Disc Brake Conversion.

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Brakes: Yet Another Disc Brake Conversion.

    I'd like to start of saying that any upgrade people have for a Studebaker is great. I love you enraptures that have semi trailers full of NOS stuff because it blows people a way when I tell them my Stude is still 100% USA made! The more options, the better the rest of use to make choices.

    When looking at disc brake conversions I considered a few. But I came across a set up from a member SBCA96. This is his post:



    I chose his setup based upon a few thoughts. First SBCA96 pointed out that Stude had 6 bolts holing the brake plates in and his front brackets used 6 bolts to mount it, not 3 or 4 but all six! The second was listing to Johnny Chash sing about the Cadillac he built after he took one piece at a time from the factory. I thought about the grocery list I'd need to get the right pads for from which were different than the rear ect..

    Now when I go to the parts store I just ask for 2004 Mustang GT brake parts, that easy!

    He had three choices; Single GT, Dual GT and Dual Cobra.

    Since I wanted to keep stock 15" wheel I chose the Dual GTs. Yeah Dual piston seems to have some bragging rights!

    This is what it looks like:
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4079.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	79.5 KB
ID:	1738550 Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4081.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	79.8 KB
ID:	1738551

    Lots of Clarence and no rubbing!

    That was easy! But the rears had a bit more thinking and (uh hum Skill) to make work.. SBCA96 supplied a drawing of a modification to a Mustang rear bracket as he had not gotten to the design of the rear. But one strange thing about his set up for the rear.. It was like the other rear set ups, it slides over the back of the axle flange, and it only used 3 bolts out of the 4.. Humm? I thought of the quote about Stude used 6 and felt I should have 4 on the back! Look at the drum brake plate.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4030.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	193.2 KB
ID:	1738552
    It has 4 bolts and a recess for the bearing to ride into. Also it has a small diameter for the Axel to go through and not expose the bearing to an open cavity.. I didn't feel bolting in the remaining pieces with the felt seal was going to be, "what Stude would do.."

    Take the Mustang Bracket: Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4031.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	139.8 KB
ID:	1738553 rout out he center of the face of the backing plate. Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4032.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	114.7 KB
ID:	1738554 This will flip and go against the axle flange.

    An insert to go in the middle that would accomplish the same design as the drum brake plate. Note edge of insert chamfered for weld penetration
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4033.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	111.5 KB
ID:	1738555 Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4034.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	107.0 KB
ID:	1738556 Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4034.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	107.0 KB
ID:	1738556
    Last edited by SScopelli; 01-15-2018, 07:31 PM.

  • #2
    I used a donor axle and axle housing as a welding jig.. All pieces were nice and centered! So tack weld and weld it up and grind it down..


    Test fit the results..
    Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4040.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	92.2 KB
ID:	1679787Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4041.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	96.3 KB
ID:	1679788Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4042.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	98.7 KB
ID:	1679789Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4043.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	120.7 KB
ID:	1679790
    Two things I almost missed!
    1) Even the dust shied from the 04 can be utilized!
    2) Notice the original hole on the backing plate at the 7 o'clock position. I elongated it and will use it as the initial hole. From my axel housing I'm able to re-drill the other three!

    I chose this as the pilot hole for a reason. It put the caliper at the 2 o'clock position. More on that later
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SScopelli; 05-23-2013, 02:39 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      How bad was the cost for his kit? and the cost on brakes parts did you source those used?

      Comment


      • #4
        On my setup, the caliper bracket also needed some modification. When mounted, it was not centered. It was to far out. A calculated amount of grinding the mounting pad down and I was able to achieve 0.120" gap front and back! Note the difference between the original on the left to the modified on the right. You really need to get the rotor centered in the bracket because the pads metal backing ride on here and if one side has more gap, the pad "could" slip off the bracket and cause all sorts of problems!
        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4044.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	105.7 KB
ID:	1679791Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4045.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	133.8 KB
ID:	1679792Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4046.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	1679793Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4047.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	108.4 KB
ID:	1679794

        Also note your Bolt length. You don't want that rubbing on your rotor after you tighten it down. Only a few thread removed.

        With it all together note the 2 o'clock position. I did this because at 12 o'clock, it would hit the traction mount, and at 3 o'clock the return spring for the e-brake would have hit the leaf springs.
        Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4051.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	126.2 KB
ID:	1679796Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4052.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	113.8 KB
ID:	1679797Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4053.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	86.7 KB
ID:	1679798

        The original e-brake cable almost works. The cable housing is 20" long which is about 4" short. The end that use to go into the brake plate will not fit in the caliper. Good news is the wire cable length is perfect for fit. I've called a company named <removed, see below> and they are making me a custom cable with 24" cable housings and the proper Stude front/ Mustang rear ends. I'll get the pics when it comes in.

        Cost:
        250.00 SBC brackets
        550.00 04 GT Mustang Calipers/Rotors/Pads/Brake hoses ($55 front, $65 rear, each caliper)
        175.00 Machining Frt/Rear hubs, brackets
        40.00 O4 rear brackets and dust shield
        -------
        $1015.00

        Note: I bought rebuilt calipers. I found cores for $40 for 2 front/2 rear. They could have been used as is and dropped the price by $240.00. Also 95 to 04 Mustangs are plenty in the salvage yards. Some have really great parts on them.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by SScopelli; 04-24-2013, 05:26 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hey GTHawk,

          You got a reply in before I could finish the post. Darn picture limit and only can upload one pic at a time.

          Rotors/ Pads new, Calipers rebuilt. I was able to find cores for $40.00 for 4. Some core charges on the rebuilt were 45 each, so 40 was a bargain!

          The e-brake cable is $50.00, which is a screaming deal. I figure it would take me more than a couple of hours to fab an adapter mount for it and it just would not look finished..

          As it sits, I think this looks very finished and in the spirit of "What would Stude do?" thought.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF4049.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	95.6 KB
ID:	1679799
          This is what it looks like after paint and before the clutter. Note all pieces like a drum brake was on it.

          BTW. Cost breakdown above!
          Last edited by SScopelli; 04-17-2013, 11:37 PM.

          Comment


          • #6
            SBCA96 is member Tom Rautio. He's a very accomplished guy. He did a step-by-step TREMEC 5-speed conversion on his Avanti and documented it here in maybe one of the best tech threads anywhere. For some reason he got hassled by a couple people here almost every time he posted to the point that he quit the forum. It was a damn shame.

            Hope he is doing well and his products are everything they seem to be.
            Proud NON-CASO

            I do not prize the word "cheap." It is not a badge of honor...it is a symbol of despair. ~ William McKinley

            If it is decreed that I should go down, then let me go down linked with the truth - let me die in the advocacy of what is just and right.- Lincoln

            GOD BLESS AMERICA

            Ephesians 6:10-17
            Romans 15:13
            Deuteronomy 31:6
            Proverbs 28:1

            Illegitimi non carborundum

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Bob,

              I did not know Tom quit the forum, it is not right..

              Normaly I would stick to the Tech, but another guy who helped me put together an R1+ motor said he quit for the same reason. So allow me to get my soap box out..

              I'm real thick skin and if others can not appreciate the efforts of others and validate or nurture that effort it does not seem to be what a forum should be.
              Maybe we can make web a site called "Smack Down Raw Stude" for those people who enjoy that stuff?

              I have done different cars and the aftermarket mods for them are many.
              The more there are the better the next product, and the opportunity for the other to improve.
              The installation appearance and functionality is a key fundamental to their success! What was that word? Oh Yeah Competition..

              Also I look at what I did as "Green" by recycling the Mustang brackets to fit.
              If that doesn't happen, it goes to scrap and sent to China only to come back as a tool you buy at Harbor Freight! There is just something wrong about that to me..

              Ok, I'm off my Box now..

              I hope you enjoy the pictures and if any detail You or other need. let me know.
              I'm not on here 24/7 and get my wind to post something now and then.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
                Hey GTHawk,

                You got a reply in before I could finish the post. Darn picture limit and only can upload one pic at a time.

                Rotors/ Pads new, Calipers rebuilt. I was able to find cores for $40.00 for 4. Some core charges on the rebuilt were 45 each, so 40 was a bargain!

                The e-brake cable is $50.00, which is a screaming deal. I figure it would take me more than a couple of hours to fab an adapter mount for it and it just would not look finished..

                As it sits, I think this looks very finished and in the spirit of "What would Stude do?" thought.

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]23087[/ATTACH]
                This is what it looks like after paint and before the clutter. Note all pieces like a drum brake was on it.

                BTW. Cost breakdown above!
                And you used all new parts, if one were to do this with good used from a pick and pull, the cost would be far less, I like the four wheel disc brakes, could be even cheaper if you only did the front wheels though. What car is this going on.

                Comment


                • #9
                  A 61 R1 Super Lark Daytona Convertible..

                  Go to my profile, I have a photo album you can see a few pictures.

                  My Avatar with the big orange fan blade is it as well.

                  I do not think I can put another option on this car!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Would you consider doing a few rear bracket sets for sale?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Would there be a difference in the added center disc on the brackets for axles with aftermarket flanged axles? I noticed the tapered axle shafts...

                      Jeff T.
                      \"I\'m getting nowhere as fast as I can\"
                      The Replacements.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have to make my own with a deeper "hat section" rotor. The kits available won't clear Halibrand wheels which have such a thick cross section, it is only 13" inside dia, even with a 15" wheel
                        Going with Wilwood 4 piston Dynalite calipers, or perhaps Akebono as on Infinity G37
                        Bez Auto Alchemy
                        573-318-8948
                        http://bezautoalchemy.com


                        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          @Len, I could make up another set. I may have a line on 3 sets of mustangs back plates. My turnaround on it will be slow. I'd need to know the position you want your brake at. Please read as to why I chose that position.


                          @Jeff, If the flange axles are further out, you may not have to grind down the Caliper Bracket.. In fact you may have to add a spacer or two.. If you can put a mustang rotor on the axle and then measure from the flange to the rotor, See this ==> AxelToRotor.pdf

                          I can use my crude jig to get the final fit.

                          @Bez, I'm looking for a smaller rotor as I am doing a 14" rims setup for a buddy of mine 50's Hawk. The fronts brackets have a lot of meat on them and can be cut in to fit the spindle and you might shave some off the matting area for the caliper bracket. One set of the Mustang rears, I welded the holes and re drilled.. So far so good. I used the rotors off a 95 T-Bird.. I did have to re-drill the rotors to 4.5 centers.. So a bit more work, but I see you are a craftsman as well.

                          When I flipped the bracket over the distance between the rotor to the backing plate increased and it really is flexible for other rotors and calipers.

                          Also I am having the eBrake cable made. Mine is a 61 Conv which is similar to the Avanti. I also have a sedan eBrake cable and it is just a longer cable.. I assume the Hawk would be really longer..

                          PM me and I can e-mail the pdf for the eBrake Cable. Its a bit larger than I can upload.

                          Thank you all for looking..

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            E-Brake Cable Update

                            Another update:

                            I had mentioned that I contacted a company about making the e-brake cable.
                            When I first contacted them they seemed happy to help, I sent them a drawing and noted the differences between the original cable and what I wanted changed.

                            Well I guess the thought of a company that sells parts mainly to the Chevy community would make a part for a Studebaker, let alone with a Ford part was too much for them to stomach.. Their claim was they could not get the Ford ends. I then requested they just use the ends of the Studebaker and I would ream out the hole in the caliper from .5 to .624. He said "No Thanks."

                            I've re-edited my post to remove them..

                            Really!

                            Since the initial decline I had contacted another company www.Madisonpowersystems.com with the same drawing. Shawn said he could do it no problem. Their cable will not look 100% oem but are sealed for better environment protection.

                            I hope to have it by next Monday..

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks so much for all of your posts.
                              The info on SBCA96 is member Tom Rautio is disturbing.
                              Very seldom you see flaming on this forum.
                              We seem like a big family and don't get insulted when someone corrects a mistake.
                              We all work towards the same goal.
                              Robert Kapteyn

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X