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View Full Version : Fuel System: (1963 v8) Lark suddenly died in traffic!!!



HissingElf
03-24-2013, 08:58 AM
Still new to the car.
Full tank of gas. Sitting at red light. The Lark died.
Engine cranks. Started for a split-second, then failed on all attempts. Had it towed home.

FUEL PUMP?
If so, can someone tell me where it lives on the car? And how easy it is to replace??? And how long they are supposed to last? (My Lark has 23K on it).

I REALLY appreciate the advice. Any particular brand name better than another????

Thanks again!!!

Chris

JoeHall
03-24-2013, 09:55 AM
I'd replace the OEM pump with a block-off plate, and put an electric pump on it. If you do a search here, you will find tons of info on both OEM & electric pumps, with lots of ideas and suggestions.

sweetolbob
03-24-2013, 10:05 AM
I'd replace the OEM pump with a block-off plate, and put an electric pump on it. If you do a search here, you will find tons of info on both OEM & electric pumps, with lots of ideas and suggestions.

I'm with Joe here. But check if you get gas at the carb, if not then Joe's idea. Remember that low miles mean very little as todays fuel eats old diaphragms for lunch.


Bob

skyway
03-24-2013, 10:54 AM
If it is a bad fuel pump, be sure to also check for gas in your engine oil.

doug
03-24-2013, 11:49 AM
The fuel pump is located on the lower, forward passenger side of the engine. Access depends on how many things are driven off the fan belt.

Warren Webb
03-24-2013, 11:51 AM
If your fuel pump is bad don't discard it!! Check with our vendors for a kit that is more compatible with todays gas. If your car has so little miles on it then the original Carter fuel pump should be there. Rebuild that one. The Airtex pumps that are available as replacements aren't nearly as good.

You most likely had a vapor lock situation. Joe's suggestion of an electric fuel pump would help solve that problem but it needs more than just that. Wire the pump through a relay & a shut off in case of a situation (such as Ford installs in their cars). The pump should be mounted in the rear as close to the fuel tank as possible, on the frame rail. I would also install a fuel pressure regulator near the carburetor.

Dan Timberlake
03-24-2013, 01:15 PM
Had you recently bought gasoline? Occassionally a load of new gas seems to bring on a slug of water. Water droplets don't flow thru tiny jet holes, and don't burn even if they do. removing the fuel line at the carb, positioning it securely in a clean 1 quart pyrex measuring cup and cranking for a second or 2 will capture a fuel sample for visual evaluation, and is a ruff test of fuel pump delivery too.

I'd remove the air cleaner and peak down the carb throat and stroke the throttle linkage. If there is a stream of gas from the accel pump in each primary carb throat then I'd temporarily rule out the fuel pump system failing.

Then I'd test for spark at a plug wire while cranking. A test plug is more convenient than trying to work with a standard plug. The 0.75" is a too-wide typo. should be 0.075 - 0.188 ".
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/heavychevy396/2010-08-04_115724_Test_Plug.jpg

If I found a decent blue spark across a new spark plug with widened gap, I'd dump half a shot glass of new gas down each carb throat, set the air cleaner lid back on, and crank again. If it did not run for a few seconds I'd dig deeper into the ignition.

the shop manual has a nice step-by-step troubleshooting section to locate problems quickly with minimal parts swappin'

52-fan
03-24-2013, 01:34 PM
Good advice. Don't jump to conclusions that just makes the job harder. I learned this the hard way a long time ago.

showbizkid
03-24-2013, 02:02 PM
Also make sure that the gas tank vent tube in the trunk, which comes off the filler neck, is not plugged at the bottom where it exits the trunk floor. A plugged vent line leads to vacuum in the system and that will surely stop fuel delivery. It's 0307-16 in the diagram below.

22458

BobPalma
03-24-2013, 03:10 PM
Vapor lock is the #1 possibility, as has been mentioned. Don't start throwing parts at it until you study the possibility that it simply vapor-locked.

Did it start and run normally later on, after several hours of cool-down, preferably with the hood open? :cool: BP

Milaca
03-24-2013, 03:34 PM
Is today the first time that you have had the car on the road this year? How long had it been running prior to the red light stop?

rusty65
03-24-2013, 06:56 PM
.....also check your fuel lines (metal and neoprene) and for a dirty fuel filter.Had a '66 Galaxie once that did me like that.Plenty of fuel,new carb, new fuel pump.The culprit? The 99 cent piece of fuel line that went from the tank to the metal line.That was a long time ago but I never forgot it.As another poster mentioned, Airtex pumps aren't the greatest.IMHO they are trash.If you should decide to go with an electric fuel pump,let me know.And WELCOME, from a fellow Marylander!!

Greenstude
03-24-2013, 07:58 PM
Check to see if fuel is getting to the carburetor. If so, and the engine was well warmed up when it stalled, another possibility is ethanol in the gasoline. If you can buy ethanol-free gasoline, ALWAYS use it. In addition to causing stalling and hard starts on a warm engine, ethanol will eat the rubber sections of your fuel line, plus eventually damage the fuel pump and carburetor. If the car has a re-lined fuel tank, ethanol can also turn the lining into a gooey mess in the bottom of the tank.

53starliner
03-26-2013, 09:20 AM
"Started for a split second..." sounds like it could be a failed ignition resister. Happened to me once on my 63 R1 Lark.

studebakerkid
03-26-2013, 09:26 AM
Do not jump to conclusions......if you take off the air filter and look down the carb and then by hand work the accelerator linkage and you see gas squirt inside the carb it aint the fuel pump. Next you have to check out the ignition. I had the distrib ground strap break once at night. Took me fifteen minutes to trace it down and another five to grab a piece of wire to make a temp replacement to get me home.