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Power steering fluid 62 gt hawk

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  • Steering: Power steering fluid 62 gt hawk

    So Im used to cars that have a big plastic fluid containers with a big cap that says 'power steering fluid' on it. Where the heck do I put power steering fluid in and check the levels? The only sticks I see are for oil and transmission fluid!

    Thanks guys!

  • #2
    There's a large round cover on the power steering pump on the Left side of the engine bay near the front of the engine, should have a wing nut or regular 1/4 nut. Remove the nut and carefully lift the cover off. It is recommended you only use type "F" transmission fluid, don't use the new clear stuff.

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    • #3
      If you can locate a ford powersteering unit with the same housing the ford cover has a dipstick which makes it easier to check.

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      • #4
        So now im a little confuse3d. There is a black fluid container with the wing nut, I see that but it says transmission fluid. Theres a twist off cap with a small dip stick but it also says transmission fluid on it. Am I to pour power steering fluid in there? The issue is that I am having a power steering fluid leak and I bought some stop leak to see if that would resolve the problem.

        Everyone gets at least one dumdum question on the forum right? Ha

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        • #5
          It looks like your power steering pump has already been converted to the Ford type cover with the cap and little dipstick.
          Look and make sure that it is on the power steering pump.
          These power steering pumps used transmission fluid .
          If you have a power steering leak it could be the hoses or the power steering valve.
          Stop leak won't do any good,it will just ruin the pump itself.
          Start out by replacing the hoses, they are available from all vendors.
          You can also try to find out if it is the valve that is leaking by putting some papers under the car when parked and see where it drips.
          Robert Kapteyn

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          • #6
            I have not had good luck with stop leak in the PS system, and ATF tends to make a small leak even worse. Most Stude owners rigidly stick to ATF, but I have found the absolute best fluid you can put in that PS is STP brand PS fluid. The system operates smoother, and it will reduce minor leaks. I have been using it exclusively in Studes for about 15 years now, including a 62 GT Hawk I have put 275,000 miles on.

            It is not unusual for a few drops of PS fluid to be on the garage floor after a couple of days, but it should not puddle. If it has a leak bad enough to puddle, the most common sources are: pump shaft seal; control valve seal, and ram cylinder seal. All of those are fairly easy to isolate, and to replace the respective seals. Parts are available from our Stude vendors.

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            • #7
              Right-o! thank you, that helps a ton. I took it to a shop last week and he said the pump was worn and needed to be replaced. All I see are rebuilt ones. So that begs the question, why cant i "simply" pull the pump out and replace the gaskets etc.? thus rebuild the pump I already have?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by kpayne9449 View Post
                Right-o! thank you, that helps a ton. I took it to a shop last week and he said the pump was worn and needed to be replaced. All I see are rebuilt ones. So that begs the question, why cant i "simply" pull the pump out and replace the gaskets etc.? thus rebuild the pump I already have?
                You likely can. And unless its been abused, i.e. ran dry, it will probably only need seal kit. If it works, is quiet operating, but the steering is stiff, first try getting the air out: raise both wheels up, let it idle, and turn the wheels lock to lock about half dozen times. The fluid should not look milky, if you look at it a few seconds after shutdown. (Peer into the dipstick hole with a light.) If it is still is stiff, it may be the hoses swelling inside, and restricting fluid flow. If you decide you need new hoses, I'd remove the originals and take them to a hydraulic hose shop, and have replacements made.

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                • #9
                  Oh there's no doubt that the pump can be rebuilt on the bench. You can pick up the rebuild kits for the pumps and control valves from the Studebaker vendors. The rebuild kits for both aren't much more than some small gaskets and o-rings. I rebuilt/replaced mine on the Lark a couple of times, and rebuilt the control valve off of the Pitman arm at least once. They're fairly simple pumps; they have a reservoir on top, and a pulley driven impeller underneath. Follow the disassembly procedures in the Shop Manual, torque everything to spec, and it should be pretty easy. The two biggest issues I had with the pumps were that the impeller, or whatever bushings that drove it would lock up, thereby taking out the belt, and if you didn't torque the nut that held the reservoir down to its torque specification, and get that reservoir sealed on the o-ring?, you had an incessant leak that wouldn't quit until that nut was properly tightened.
                  1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                  1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                  1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                  1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by kpayne9449 View Post
                    Right-o! thank you, that helps a ton. I took it to a shop last week and he said the pump was worn and needed to be replaced. All I see are rebuilt ones. So that begs the question, why cant i "simply" pull the pump out and replace the gaskets etc.? thus rebuild the pump I already have?
                    I doubt you will, but IF you wind up needing a new pump, I believe AutoZone #6045 and/or 6049 will fit. I researched those numbers about six months ago, when I thought I was gonna need a new pump. Turned out, just needed to rebuild the old one, so did not actually try one of the AZ pumps, but pretty sure it will fit; interchanges with some 1960s FoMoCo vehicles.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                      I doubt you will, but IF you wind up needing a new pump, I believe AutoZone #6045 and/or 6049 will fit. I researched those numbers about six months ago, when I thought I was gonna need a new pump. Turned out, just needed to rebuild the old one, so did not actually try one of the AZ pumps, but pretty sure it will fit; interchanges with some 1960s FoMoCo vehicles.
                      Same pump as a P/S equipped 65/66 Mustang or Falcon,I got one at my FLAPS & installed on my 63 Hawk.It's an exact bolt in & it says made in U.S.
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        Thats great guys thank you all for your advice. So if I have the option to rebuild I see the 19$ kit on studebakerparts.com, is this what I need? It doesnt really give a description or a picture

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                        • #13


                          So this guy may be what I need if I need a new pump?

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                          • #14
                            Here's a copy of an old post I placed on the forum. May help.

                            Rebuilding 61 Hawk Power Steering Pump Heres Some Stuff I Learned


                            My 61 Hawk started leaking Power Steering Fluid on the way from NJ to Vermont I cut the belt and drove on. When I arrived I bought a kit from Dave Thiebult (spelling?) and in the last two days I rebuilt it. First off you should know only seals are available no bushings.

                            I have a Shop Manual and Dave was nice enough to explain the procedure. Here are the mistakes and the things I learned. Be sure when spliting the pump the shaft is down ( I did that) or the guts fall out. Be sure to mark the top of the Carrier ( wheel looking gear) because it is like a water pump in a boat it has an orientation. Put it back as it came out. The Shop Manual says to put the shaft in with a seal protector from the inside out. DO NOT DO THAT. Put the shaft in from the front WITH THE PULLEY ON IT. This allows you to protect the seal without the seal tool and it insures the rough part of the shaft never hits the seal. I destroyed the first front seal but that was probably a good thing because I found NAPA Seal # 7440 is the right one and it sure looks stronger. I also found the following sites:

                            http://studebaker-info.org/ Tons of Stude stuff with pictures explaining everything including this job. Thanks for that tip on putting the pulley on the shaft. I have had Studes. for over 30 years and never saw this site. I have it marked now.

                            http://www.avantiparts.biz/servlet/t...p--dsh-/Detail BRAND NEW pumps if you screw up royally.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by kpayne9449 View Post
                              http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search

                              So this guy may be what I need if I need a new pump?


                              Most Auto Parts Stores sell REBUILT Power Steering Pumps.
                              Last edited by StudeRich; 03-09-2013, 03:55 PM.
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                              SDC Member Since 1967

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