Voltage regulator at reasonable price?

[davette59]

OK, I checked the generator and neither the field or armature posts are shorted to the housing. In checking the voltage regulator, there is continuity between the battery terminal and the negative on the battery which leads me to assume that the regulator is shorted.
I thougTht all 12 volt regulatorswere pretty much the same. A standard 12 volt regulator is about $15 to $20 but in checking one for the studebaker Lark, they are anywhere from $85 to over $100. Not sure why the one for the Lark is so expensive wheng the one I bought for my corvair was about $20. Does anyone know where I can purchase one for a reasonable price.

[63t-cab]

Dave, I sent you a pm.

[davette59]

Hi Joseph, the private message didn't come through. There's nothing in my in box.

[greyben]

Try rockauto.com

[stude dude]

What years is your Lark? The 1962 type has always been the most expensive.

Chris.

[davette59]

It is a 1960 model 6 cylinder Lark.

[DieselJim]

To check the generator, remove the field wire, the small one. Hook a jumper wire from the field post to ground. Start the engine. If the generator is working, the amp gage will show max chargeing. 60 Lark doesn't have a gage.

[davette59]

I tried Rockauto and they show one for $34 but it only has two terminals, my car has three so it's not the right one. The one for $52 has the three terminals but the mounting holes are on the ends instead of the top and bottom.

[DieselJim]

Dave, to be safe, take the generator and voltage regulator to a shop that does rebuild. Have them tested. If the generator is bad, it could ruin a mew regulator.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

The image shown may be generic, not an image of the correct regulator sold.

[greyben]

The VR15 regulator from Standard Motors should be correct for an Autolite generator. Some Autolite regulators had the third terminal on the opposite side of the can. It is difficult to see how a two two terminal regulator could be used with these generators. I think the description is wrong. My Standard Motors parts book incates #VR15 is correct. It would be a good idea to check the generator before replacing the regulator unit, although regulator failure is the most likely problem from the symptons.

Here's a discount code from Rock Auto good for 5% off if you're interested. (Anyone can use this code. They send one out after every order and then it expires before I order again. I think this one expires April 15th) I'm not promoting them as a supplier, but have received good service from them.

Your discount code is:



1327313310854716



Using Your Discount Code
Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your parts order total. Orders using discount codes must be placed online. Phone orders are not eligible for discounts.

[davette59]

OK, here's the scoop. I took the generator to a rebuild shop and they tested it tob be in good working order. The number on the generator is an Auto-Lite GJP 2012A. It through me off a little because it said Chrysler Corp on it but I think the same generator was used in many different brands back then. Anyway, the voltage regulator was trashed and I need to know the proper regulator for this generator so that I may purchase one. RockAuto has a VR-15 and a VR-20 that are for a 1960 Lark 6 cylinder which my car is. It says the VR-15 has two terminals and the VR-20 has three which confuses me. Someone in the forum said that the picture was probably generic, the statement of two terminals was incorrect and that the third post was probably on the opposite side and not shown.
I believe Advance auto also has the same two regulators and they are about $40 for the VR-15 and $50 for the VR-20 ( Studebaker International wants $92 ).
i need some advice as to which regulator I need, to match this generator.
thanks for all the input so far.