Drive Shaft: Driveshaft for Explorer rear axle ?

[RESHAW]

I am installing an Explorer rear axle in my 1962 4 speed Hawk. Now I need to make a driveshaft. I think I will have to combine a Ford driveshaft with a Studebaker or GM driveshaft, but I don't know exactly what to use. Would someone who has done this care to tell me what you used? Thanks in advance for any advice.
Robert Shaw

[Carl Purdy]

I have a Ford Exploder rear in my 56 wagon. Don't you have a drive shaft Place of business close. I took both ends and the length minus 1 inch in and they made me a new one.

[JoeHall]

What year Explorer rear end did y'all use?

[Carl Purdy]

I used a 1994 Exploder.

[Dougie]

There are plenty of places that will put one together for you. I wouldn't screw around with a used one or something cobbled up. Bought mine online from Denny's Driveshaft. They have an online form to specify and order. Two weeks later I had it. Ford Explorer rear end, Muncie 4 speed in 62 Lark.

[RESHAW]

The rear end I used was from a 1992 Ford Explorer which has drum brakes, 3.73 gears, and locking differential. I used a driveshaft from a 1995 Lincoln Town Car and adapted the 4 speed yoke to it with a u-joint from O'Reilly. It fits perfectly with no alteration. I used a speedometer cable for a 1970 Impala with cruise control.

[Corley]

You should look into special U joints on a swap like this. There are several "special" U-joints out there that have different dimmesions and types and size caps on one side of the yoke than on the other side, and can marry a Ford driveshaft to a Chevy, (or visa versa), as an example, without any cutting and welding up of a new driveshaft. Just consult the Spicer catalogs... I've used these several times on swaps that I have done.

As for building a new driveshaft, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a used factory driveshaft if you don't have to mess with it, and using these special U-joints makes that possible on swaps. Old driveshafts can be cut and different ends welded on, (I've done plenty of them), but it takes a long bed lathe and someone who knows what they are doing. The yokes rotation must be aligned perfectly, and the shaft must be true. Still, it needs to be balanced after modifications. Better to find one that fits your needs lengthwise, and use the special U-joints to make it all fit together.

JMHO

[wittsend]

Most cars used a 1310 or 1330 type U-Joint. The special U-Joints mentioned combine the 1310 and the 1330 types (there are also other combinations available). This allows shafts and yokes of different types to be used together. The remaining issue for you would be driveshaft length. With the rear end change the position of the rear yoke may be different. This could render you existing driveshaft too short or too long.

Slide your existing shaft back into your transmission. Then attempt to connect it to the rear end. If the U-joint end caps are too small just roughly position it centered in the yoke. You can (temporarily) wrap tape around the caps to increase the diameter if that helps. If the caps are too large pull them off and either by hand or wrapped tape popsition the shaft.

Once positioned, you should then be able to push the the driveshaft forward about 3/4" to 1". If it moves forward more than that, it is too short. If you can't get the driveshaft forward enough to even position the shaft in the rear yoke (or forward travel is less than 3/4") it is too long .

Note that this regards a "standard" driveshaft angle configuration. In the case of my '64 Daytona it has a "broke back" configuration and the upward travel of the wheels moves the shaft outward from the transmission. Downward travel moves the shaft inward. The is is opposite of the "standard" effect. In my case I had to test minimal forward travel with the car jacked up and the wheels down. Testing this way is done at your own risk. Always properly support the car.

Maybe you will be fortunate and your existing shaft will work. I swapped both the rear end and transmission in my Turbo Pinto. what one end lost the other gained and the original shaft worked perfectly. With my '64 Daytona I swapped in a 700R4. For less than $20 I found a driveshaft from a '76 Buick Skylark that was the proper length. Lastly I have hears that it is far better to shorten a long driveshaft than lengthen a short one. so, if you do use a different (blended) shaft make sure the donor is too long.
Tom

[Bobcat]

Is there a source for purchasing the mounting plates and brackets for installing the Explorer axle in a Stude?

[52-fan]

Is there a source for purchasing the mounting plates and brackets for installing the Explorer axle in a Stude?

I don't think you will find a kit, but lots of hot rod catalogs have spring perches and the like. The plates for the shock mount may be adaptable from the stock parts.
Unfortunately, this is an old thread and some guys, like Carl Purdy, are no longer with us.

[enjenjo]

This flange yoke https://www.amazon.com/Dana-Spicer-F.../dp/B08QZRWB1G will bolt to the Explorer yoke, and fit the U joint on the original shaft. You will just need to shorten the original shaft to the new length.

[Paul Keller]

Last year I used ROCKAUTO for their selection of "dual use" U-joints as described in post seven above.
paultk