Drive Shaft: u-joints

[swvalcon]

Anyone know what ujoints fit the last of the gt hawks with a powershift auto? Where's the best place to get them.

[jackb]

depends on the year and maybe your serial number (I doubt it)...or what a previous owner did in the same situation.....if you don't have a parts' book to tell you, call one of our vendors and they can help....the FLAPS don't always have the exact application(s) in their computer system....

[ROADRACELARK]

You might consider contacting your local "Driveline Shop". Just carried one in to be done...two new u-joints installed and spin balanced the shaft assembly..total $88.50. Note: Sometimes this is probably the only time the shaft balance would be done since the factory assembled it. The shafts become out-of-balance through the walk of time, for various reasons. Side note....this would be the ideal time to replace a leaking pinion seal in the rear axle, and the seal in the transmission extension housing. Hope this helps.

Dan Miller
Auburn, GA

[Bo Markham]

Anyone know what ujoints fit the last of the gt hawks with a powershift auto? Where's the best place to get them.

The answer to your question depends on which year GT Hawk you have? 62 only uses Spicer type (both the same front/back) with the standard outer (squeeze type), snap ring. 63-4 depending on the type drive shaft and yoke assembly used. Studebaker used either the Spicer type, or the Mechanics type with inner ("C", or "U"), snap ring. On 63-4 front and rear are different.

You will need to look at the joints as installed in the yolk assembly. Look at the bearing cups and see if you can see the outer type snap ring. It should be readily apparent which type you have. Either are available via local flaps, as these were used by every other brand, too. NAPA is probably the best source, as they actually have listings for the Studebaker application, and here in Florida either run about $15.00 ea.

If you had any kind of vibration in the driveline (drive shaft and yokes), I'd go along with spending the extra money on having the thing balanced. but once you have it out and look it over, and especially if you've had no sort of vibration, you really shouldn't have to have it rebalanced. Check the weights on the tube to make sure they are still securely spot welded in place and that any haven't been slung off, and by all means check for pitting (rust). Of course, like the man says, it is better to be safe then sorry later on.

[swvalcon]

It didn't have any shakes or noticeable balance issues. I was hoping to get the ujoints before I pulled it apart so i wouldn't be looking for them after I had it in the shop. Hope to get it in around the middle of march to pull body off frame. I've got all the rear end seals and should have all the trans seals by then.

[Milaca]

I bought the rear U-joint for my '63 Hawk in Milaca, of all places.
This was about three years ago, and if I recall correctly, Parts City/Meyer Auto had a listing for my car in their book. I've been in that store enough times now that everyone behind the counter knows what a Studebaker is!