Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Just getting to look at my new Lark today

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Just getting to look at my new Lark today

    The Lark arrived and I got to take a closer look at it this morning. It was in the Sandy flood so there is some mildew. The lights and heater don't work. The lights are probably is a fuse or corroded connections but it looks like the heater motor was under water and is probably trash.
    Someone said there was a shop manual covering a 60 Lark in Studebaker International for $20 on CD but I couldn't find it.
    There was an air cleaner with the car but it will not fit because, as I was told, it has a Volvo carbeuator.
    Do all Larks have twisted and crooked clutch and brake pedals? My pedals are both at very odd angles.
    Avantidave
    1978 Avanti II

  • #2
    If that car was in the flood, I hope you didn't spend too much on it. You'll have a lot of work to do.
    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

    Comment


    • #3
      CD Manual Item No: 801203 (1959-1964 Lark and Hawk) page 25 of their catalog $24.95. Includes Shop, Chassis and Body manuals. Sounds like you'll have to strip her down and start from there to make sure you've detected/repaired all the flood damage. Good Luck.
      John Clements
      Christchurch, New Zealand

      Comment


      • #4
        David, I have seen my share of twisted pedals on Studebakers.never thought much about why,but I suppose there is some weak metal used ?
        Joseph R. Zeiger

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the info on the CD manual.
          In every photo I have seen of the inside of a Lark, the pedals have been twister. If I try to straighten them do ai risk breaking the metal?
          Avantidave
          1978 Avanti II

          Comment


          • #6
            I never tried to straighten one,but would'nt think you'd break one trying ?
            Joseph R. Zeiger

            Comment


            • #7
              No. Not any weak metal, just whoever tightened the nut retaining them failed to hold the pedal in position firmly. There are no "locating nubs" holding them in the correct postion & so when you tighten them, its a 2 handed operation. Loosen the retaining nut, position & tighten again. Mine have held for years.
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

              Comment


              • #8
                There is supposed to be a external tooth "Star" lockwasher BETWEEN the pedal pad and the mounting surface. This keeps the pedal pad in proper position.

                Comment

                Working...
                X