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1959 Studebaker Lark- Rear Leaf Spring and Shocks

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  • Shocks: 1959 Studebaker Lark- Rear Leaf Spring and Shocks

    Hello friends:

    I own a 59 Studebaker Lark that I need to rebuild the entire suspension on. I am beginning with the rear leaf springs and shocks now. I snapped the rear driver side leaf spring, whew that made for a fun ride. Yes, I jimmy-rigged it back together and drove the 400 miles back home. Does anyone have a preferred dealer for replacing these? Or what options do you know of for getting these changed. I know there's a dodge car (model unknown) that virtually has the exact same leaf spring, is anyone familiar with that? I'm in Nashville, TN, wouldn't mind finding a more local shop to help me with this. Also, where can I find shocks for it? Any good suggestions on air ride? I had an old cadillac with air ride and I enjoyed it, was thinking of doing the same.

    Respectfully.
    Aaron Mrozik

  • #2
    The newer gas shocks are available from most local parts' houses. The springs can be made up locally from a spring shop (see Yellow Pages or on-line) in your nearest big city/town. For what it may cost to ship....probably better off locally.

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    • #3
      Hi Aaron, and welcome to the Forum!

      I'd ring Studebaker International first: www.studebaker-intl.com . They have a large stock of NOS spring sets. Give them a call.

      As for shocks, Bob Johnstone's interchange list shows:

      SHOCK - LARK (59-62)- Front - Gabriel Classic # 82087
      SHOCK - LARK (59-62) - Rear - Gabriel Classic 82151 (loop bottom)

      You can get these just about anywhere.

      Cheers!

      Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

      Comment


      • #4
        I went through this with my '59 2 years ago. My springs were not broken but sagging and helpers had been installed. I tried to get the original dimension info info so I could get a spring shop to re arch them. I was told on this forum that this info was not available as Studebaker recommended replacing them . In the end I got NOS springs from Stude International, front and rear shocks from Chuck Collins and bushings for the front also from Chuck. The installation presented no real problems.
        To bad you're not closer I'd send you my old springs - they are heavy.
        Andrew

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        • #5
          Originally posted by jackb View Post
          The newer gas shocks are available from most local parts' houses. The springs can be made up locally from a spring shop (see Yellow Pages or on-line) in your nearest big city/town. For what it may cost to ship....probably better off locally.
          Jack's right about the local connection and a spring shop that can build them. If that doesn't work, I buy from my local truck supply so I'd check with those folks in your area. They have the best prices in my neck of the woods and most have car listing including Studebaker and Avanti. It just takes finding a counter person that wants to help. Your location should be rife with those folks. The money you save here you can spend on the front suspension rebuild kit from our suppliers.

          Bob

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          • #6
            If you decide to buy NOS leaf springs.....buy the heaviest duty ones offered....as 'standard duty' four leaf springs wont 'hold up' for very long.

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            • #7
              Hey Everyone, thank you for your words and recommendations. I've been trying to find a local shop but it hasn't been the most fruitful search thus far. I will keep looking. my cable guy, oddly enough said that in Smithville, TN there used to be a dedicated Studebaker repair shop up until a couple years ago. When they snapped, i was actually in Valparaiso, IN and I spoke to a guy on the phone who said if he still had a machine he would have just come out there and built me a new one then. I've been looking for a guy like that since. I've found some online but I have to ship the old one and then it's still $400+ for new springs, plus shipping. I'm not convinced that i couldn't get them made here by someone. I will definitely check out stude-intl.

              I can't wait to get the Stude up and running. It's got a fair amount of work yet, but the engine is like brand new. I just rolled over 33k, original miles, with the V8! very original, I even have the original Stude key chain the dealer gave new owners. When I change out the shocks it'll feel like a new car. I never owned a car with this low of miles, lol. I plan on making it my daily driver. I don't have to drive much, so why not enjoy it while I got it? And boy, does that engine just want more, I swear get that thing up to 60-70, it feels like it wants more and the engine is silent, all you hear is wind noise. Studebaker did something right.

              Respectfully,
              Aaron

              Comment


              • #8
                rear springs

                Originally posted by aaronmrozik View Post
                Hello friends:

                I own a 59 Studebaker Lark that I need to rebuild the entire suspension on. I am beginning with the rear leaf springs and shocks now. I snapped the rear driver side leaf spring, whew that made for a fun ride. Yes, I jimmy-rigged it back together and drove the 400 miles back home. Does anyone have a preferred dealer for replacing these? Or what options do you know of for getting these changed. I know there's a dodge car (model unknown) that virtually has the exact same leaf spring, is anyone familiar with that? I'm in Nashville, TN, wouldn't mind finding a more local shop to help me with this. Also, where can I find shocks for it? Any good suggestions on air ride? I had an old cadillac with air ride and I enjoyed it, was thinking of doing the same.

                Respectfully.
                Aaron Mrozik
                I had a broken rear leaf in my 54 champ, a local spring maker remade the pair to factory specs about $3.5 for the pair. I purchased the shocks at NAPA they had them in stock. Apparently several models of rear springs will fit. Be patient with the ubolts and don't break them. Clean the exposed threads with a wire brush apply a little heat to the nut and as it cools and tightens reheat it until it is off. They are a little tough to get out but super easy to reinstall. good luck and watch those knuckles Dave British Columbia

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey ya'll It's been forever but i did want to update you. I ended up getting shocks from Autozone. They we're super cheap, maybe $30 a pop so i couldn't pass it up. They're just like the originals. I also ended up going with a monoshock carbon fiber one. It works great. It's scary, but I keep remembering that they're rated well beyond the strength of steel. It's been my daily driver since November and I've been loving it. Thanks much for the great input and help. I'll try and search for pics to show the process. My phone is pretty crappy so I'll se what I can do.

                  One other question though. I noticed that the leaf springs on there which looked original we're mounted in different spots. For instance, there are two mounting holes for the leaf spring to attach to the body of the car, directly under the rear door. There is an upper and lower hole to run the nut through and attach the leaf to the car. On mine, the drivers side leaf spring was using the lower mount hole where as the passenger side was using the upper mount hole. It makes about an inch of a difference in the way the car sits because the holes are about an inch higher/lower than the other. Any ideas why this was done on my car? I attached the new ones in the different holes as was done previoously and can't say I had a problem. Am I just continuing someones bad choice from times before?

                  I appreciate the help in advance!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Studebaker did that at the factory. They figured that with a 180 lb. driver it would ride level. Since some cars were export to places that drive on the wrong side of the road and car, they needed all those holes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I think this was done so that the car would sit level with only the driver in it.
                      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                      • #12
                        Alan wrote -
                        ""Studebaker did that at the factory. They figured that with a 180 lb. driver it would ride level.""

                        So I guess then my Lark rolls down the road listing to the left...!?

                        Mike

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Funny Mike! Time to go to Jenny Craig! You do have to remember that usually not only the Driver, but the Steering Gear and Battery are on the Left and not light.

                          The Cars always stay quite level, all except '57-'58 Scotsmans! Those cars were so stripped and light and also had the 185 Six that I remember the fresh New ones Dad brought home that had no spring settling yet, really were noticeable at the rear, tilted to the right.
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                          SDC Member Since 1967

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                          • #14
                            That's kind of what I thought but i wasn't sure. thanks guys!

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                            • #15
                              I actually had an allignment technician say that he could not allign my car because the mounting point was different in the rear....what an idiot. I promptly changed tire stores.
                              If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

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