Fuel System: Dropping gas tank 53 Coupe

[parts2]

Need to get the leak fixed.. Just filled the tank.! So I "hope" drain plug will come open.. If not..siphon time I guess..

So..Passenger side..is easy.just the bolt on the bracket. I need to disconnect furl line of course. Drivers side I haven't looked at yet. I think maybe a bracket then the hose ?

The sending unit.. Should it be disconnected from inspection hole..or can I drop and disconnect ?

I have a manual..but sometimes old manuals are not as good as real guys experience..

Thanks gents

[rockne10]

Should be two bolts on the drivers side. You should be able to drop it some but not far before disconnecting the sending unit. Do yourself a favor and order a new filler neck hose from a Stude vendor. Sixty year old rubber will not go back together well and, you must use the correct hose. It has a slight angle to it.

[Blue 15G]

It's been over 16 years since I removed the tank from my '54 while restoring it and although I don't recall all the details, I do recall that it was surprisingly easy to remove.

My favorite part was carrying the tank into the parts store machine shop to have it hot-tanked, and the old timer working there saw it and instantly smiled and stated "There's a Studebaker gas tank! I haven't seen one in years!" I guess their tank mounting system was unique.

Dave Bonn
'54 Champion Starliner

[altair]

tank removal

Need to get the leak fixed.. Just filled the tank.! So I "hope" drain plug will come open.. If not..siphon time I guess..

So..Passenger side..is easy.just the bolt on the bracket. I need to disconnect furl line of course. Drivers side I haven't looked at yet. I think maybe a bracket then the hose ?

The sending unit.. Should it be disconnected from inspection hole..or can I drop and disconnect ?

I have a manual..but sometimes old manuals are not as good as real guys experience..

Thanks gents

I removed the gas tank on my 54 sedan last month had two leaks repaires boiled out and lined. The tank comes out relatively easy, you mentioned the passenger side "just a bolt on the bracket" On my unit there is a castelled nut with cotter pin and a spring to avoid over tightening and allow some movement. The driver's side has two routine bolts on conventional brackets. Remove the sender wire first, and fuel line. If the plug won't come out syphon is in order, mine wouldnt come out and the fuel line wouldn't come apart so I cut the fuel line and reconnected with rubber hose and clamps. the rubber hose is somewhat temporary but it will get you going. If your tank was fastened rigid that may be the cause of your leak. best of luck Dave British Columbia

[parts2]

Removed the tank this morning before going to my office.. Yes it has the spring/castle nut/cotter.. Pretty easy to do by myself. The problem.. Took the tank to repair..it was previously boiled and coated..so they don't like welding on it. The leak appears at a seam..at the passenger side mount.
I will hear from them tomorrow.

I am guessing there are no repo 53 Coupe tanks anywhere..and I do not want a fuel cell in trunk..

My tank looks good..not rusty..but was repaired before..so after boil out we'll know everything..

[Pat Dilling]

If you need to replace it, the tanks from 53-61, and possibly to 64 should fit.

[parts2]

Thanks Pat..
Does any one make a new repop..?

I thought I was getting the flu..but breathing modern gas fumes/ and getting some on me..got to me..even with Nitrile gloves..I think I absorbed a bit too much..

[Green 53]

The tank on my 53 had been coated back in 1993 and started to break loose pluging up fuel filters. I took the tank to a radiator shop for clean out. They filled it with water to check for leaks but turns out they didn't pressure test it. Reinstalled it and filled with gas. Drip drip drip. Had to siphon it out again and took it to a different shop. They put in burn barrel to get rid of the old coating. They found a rust hole on a seam. Repaired it, recoated it with an ethanol proof product and now all is well

Denny L

[parts2]

Tank back..pressure tested (I was told !) Good thing I brought it in..two other spots were rusty and JB Weld patched and painted. Outlet is NOT stock Studebaker..and under pressure was sucking air..through the outlet tube..
Sure would like a baffled tank..but I now have a sealed tested tank.. Gave it multi coats on rust proof (not a real issue here in Southern Arizona)..

Just in time for a nice cold spell..75 the last week..now cold..windy and wet 50s..

Sorry for the weather wimp complaint

to all you suffering the huge storm..be careful..stay safe up there..

[parts2]

Success..!
Son and I installed the tank.. A little more difficult with the dual exhaust pipes..but rear air bags helped..just pumped them up..and we could get under easily. Put i a couple gallons..then to station for another 14..(seems to only hold 16 not 18 ?

Son watched uderneath..no leaks..took a 40 mile cruise..hills..curves..good workout.. Nice and clean..

Runs better without the outlet tube sucking air from holes .. New outlet tube..

Happy Stude again..

Now on to the next thing

[Corley]

Always wonderred about this: If you put a tank in a burn barrel to get out the old sealer, it will burn off any anti-rust coatings it may have. Right? Wrong? Is the tank then more likely to rust out sooner??? I know you coated yours on the inside with new sealer, but the outside is just painted, right? Gas tanks always have the look of being coated with solder all over, which I assume is for rust proofing, seems to me like that will be gone...???... Just wonderring...

[rockne10]

Gas tanks always have the look of being coated with solder all over, which I assume is for rust proofing,

The "look" you refer to is probably on newer galvanized tanks. As far as I know, Studebaker tanks were only painted, not galvanized.

[parts2]

It Leaks Again..

posted new thread...

Corley.. I think the tank should be resealed no matter how much repair was done.. my mistake was not resealing it..

[Corley]

The real question was: now that the tank has been "burned", is it going to be more rust prone? By the way, the tanks that I've seen on other cars at least, all pretty much have a solder type of coating, inside and out. I don't think it is galvanizing, I've even seen some with solder globs on them. Still, wheather the coating is solder or galvanized or paint, I've always found burned metal is harder to keep from rusting without stripping down to bare metal, and protecting it. Getting into the low spots and grooves to buff to bare metal will be very difficult, so I'd think there is a real possibility of rusting issues after burning. Not talking about the inside, which of course would be coated with sealer. But even there, the buring scale on the inside may not allow the sealer to cling well...???.... I don't think I like the idea of "burning" out old sealer.

[Welcome]

Always wonderred about this: If you put a tank in a burn barrel to get out the old sealer, it will burn off any anti-rust coatings it may have. Right? Wrong? Is the tank then more likely to rust out sooner??? I know you coated yours on the inside with new sealer, but the outside is just painted, right? Gas tanks always have the look of being coated with solder all over, which I assume is for rust proofing, seems to me like that will be gone...???... Just wonderring...

The "look" you refer to is probably on newer galvanized tanks. As far as I know, Studebaker tanks were only painted, not galvanized.

TERNE-coated, #21 USS Ga. (.0329 thickness) Steel

PS to Corley: Probably not such a good idea to heat up the TERNE (LEAD + TIN) coating on the tank and cause toxic fumes