Body / Glass: Rust issues

[Notasix]

My '54 Starliner will need new floors in front and a new trunk and the troughs are pretty much gone, too. Even if one considers an S10/15 frame to upgrade with, won't the troughs still be an issue? Aren't they an integral part of the body structure mounting to the frame?

[sweetolbob]

My '54 Starliner will need new floors in front and a new trunk and the troughs are pretty much gone, too. Even if one considers an S10/15 frame to upgrade with, won't the troughs still be an issue? Aren't they an integral part of the body structure mounting to the frame?

First off, Welcome

Secondly, the short answer is yes but let's first talk about the condition of your frame. My 54K was riddled with rust but the frame was quite good so I kept the frame and built floors, hog troughs, lower door mounts, lower firewall sections and rockers (inner and outer). It is now a very sturdy car.

So if your frame is good, I think the easiest way is to leave it. The Avanti's used it until 83 and my 54K and 83 Avanti are quite road worthy. I don't have a problem with a frame upgrade but it would be the most difficult mod of the two.

I can post a couple of shots of the underside of mine if you are interested.

Bob

[jimmijim8]

If I were to go through the effort to bring back a very rusty car I don't see any advantage in replacing the frame with a brand-x over the original even if the original is shot. Just get a like stock replacement. If you do the body right and have the stock frame or GT frame,the car will be worth more. cheers jimmijim

[Notasix]

My '54 Starliner will need new floors in front and a new trunk and the troughs are pretty much gone, too. Even if one considers an S10/15 frame to upgrade with, won't the troughs still be an issue? Aren't they an integral part of the body structure mounting to the frame?

Thanks for the replies. The frame seems to be pretty good. A previous owner had upgraded to sbc 327 and tubo 350 with an 8" Ford. The idea was that a later model frame gets you a little more modern front suspension and brakes. But I've watched a utube video of a Studebaker pickup that someone cobbled up with an S10 frame. He got it to work, but wasn't too good at final finish.

After looking at several sheet metal replacement posts I guess I'm intimidated by the potential cost to "do it right". There's a guy doing a Lark and he has the body off the frame, on a rotisserie and he's replacing all manner of sheet metal. That looks like the easiest way to insure that the parts on one side match the parts on the other side and gives one a unique view of any potential problem areas, but I don't think I can afford that level of expertise since I'm not doing it myself.

I'm kind of on the fence with my choices: a minimal replacement scheme-floors, trunk, obvious areas to get a good paint job and just drive it.

Or a more comprehensive sheet metal redo addressing all problem areas, then upgrading front end-either a later model car or some FatMan clone, then bodywork and paint.

It's a Pandora's box and I suppose its partly my fault by not being more objective when I bought this car.

[jackb]

I'd suggest the minor replacement and get behind the wheel as soon as possible. There's no future value in this old car market going forward for a rusty car thats been reworked (I know there are exceptions...but I don't think your car is one of them)

[Kdancy]

I'd suggest the minor replacement and get behind the wheel as soon as possible. There's no future value in this old car market going forward for a rusty car thats been reworked (I know there are exceptions...but I don't think your car is one of them)

I'd hate to guess at how many old cars are in barns, garages, and back yards, half finished and just setting because the owner underestimated the amount of knowledge, work and money that would be involved at the beginning of the project, and just got discouraged and stopped.
Keep it as simple as your ability and pocketbook will allow!

Heck, I've got one of those myself that I just don't have the ambition to finish up and it is over 3/4 of the way done! A 64 Champ PU---

[Notasix]

A couple of pictures would be very welcome given some of the replies I've received. They might give me some perspective as to how deep I am. Thanks.

[sweetolbob]

A couple of pictures would be very welcome given some of the replies I've received. They might give me some perspective as to how deep I am. Thanks.

I'm a little far from the album with my underbody shots but here are a couple from Photobucket for your study.

The first is a bottom shot with fabricated front floors, rockers, tunnel mods and hog troughs. There's more than one 4 X 8" sheet of 18 ga there. The hog troughs were fabed in sections as my bender is only 28" long. I built a bead roller to do the floor panels. While there is considerable time involved, it's not rocket science and you just need to take it a step at a time although a MIG welder is essential and Harbor Freight sells a bender for under $50.

[IMG][/IMG]


This shot shows the firewall view

[IMG][/IMG]

If you can't do it yourself, ask around your area about some of the younger folks that do vehicle mods in your area. There are a couple of them locally that do this type of work at reasonable prices. You may find one that will give you an affordable price.

If you would like the pix in a format you can expand on your computer, I sent Ed (SN60) a set a while back. He may be able to get you a copy that you can futz with on your computer.

Bob

[Jerry Forrester]

Here's the floor patchs and foot well replacements on Frosty.

[Notasix]

Here's the floor patchs and foot well replacements on Frosty.

You guys are great! Thank you very much. Looks like you didn't have too much to work with either, sweetolbob, but you had a rotisserie and the skills. I don't have the rotisserie, but I do have a friend with a shop and the skills and access to a break. I've already ordered the floors and trunk from Classic, so we'll just have to wait and see what else we find. You have given me some hope.

[sweetolbob]

Posted by Notasix

I've already ordered the floors and trunk from Classic, so we'll just have to wait and see what else we find. You have given me some hope.

The rotisserie really helps, particularity as welding is not my natural trade. I built this one to fix the 54 and sold it when I finished. Your friend shouldn't have much trouble with the hog troughs and inner rockers as they are just bent sheet metal.

In any case, Glad we could help and it's great to have another one heading back to good health.

Good Luck, Bob