Paxton SN60 Value

[WCP]

I have an ML series Paxton to sell either as a core, or fully rebuilt with the latest rebuild kit, painted or not. I'm curious as to what current prices would be as a core, rebuilt and painted, or not painted. Opinions?
For any unaware, the ML is for top mounting.

[SN-60]

I have an ML series Paxton to sell either as a core, or fully rebuilt with the latest rebuild kit, painted or not. I'm curious as to what current prices would be as a core, rebuilt and painted, or not painted. Opinions?
For any unaware, the ML is for top mounting.

When You say "latest rebuild kit"...can You tell us what would be included in that kit? Thanks!

[StudeRich]

Value is whatever someone who needs it will pay but, the prices I have seen appear to always be close to $500.00 Core and $1000.00 or more Rebuilt.
I don't think it matters whether you Paint it or not, but it would help sell it if it is the Correct (for most) bright Red/Orange.
Replacement unit Black is never pretty, but Polished bare metal is.

[bezhawk]

I don't think it matters whether you Paint it or not, but it would help sell it if it is the Correct (for most) bright Red/Orange.
Replacement unit Black is never pretty, but Polished bare metal is.

I think you mean stock black....or replacement orange.

[studefan]

Come on guys, let's not confuse the newer folk. We talked about this before. Orange superchargers from the factory. Black were rebuilt.

[SN-60]

"You say potatoes......................................!"

[WCP]

SN60 - the rebuild kit is a current one from Paradise Wheels - brass ball driver, drive set, output race, seals, bearings etc., set up for approx. 30 in.lbs. drive torque.

[SN-60]

SN60 - the rebuild kit is a current one from Paradise Wheels - brass ball driver, drive set, output race, seals, bearings etc., set up for approx. 30 in.lbs. drive torque.

I'm sure You're also changing out the output shaft (and the brass driver is the 'Cadillac'), So...I'd say its worth $1200.00 with the rare 'ML' bearing housing (rebuilt)...and $300.00 (core)

[WCP]

Thanks for the responses. Bill

[jlmccuan]

I'm sure when you price the new races, input shaft, balldrive, balls, and assorted bearings and seals you will understand the difference between core and reman. Personally, I'd rather buy a core and make sure the rebuild is done to my satisfaction. But, most don't know about the shortcuts that cost big money after a year or two. As with other work, you want to get your old parts back with the finished rebuild. If the races need replaced, the input shaft isn't long for this world.

[bezhawk]

You need a valve spring tension checking tool to properly rebuild one. Just one race tension spring out of spec will cause a wobble of destructive forces. I bet it is the most critical overlooked part of a rebuild. The bushing in the oil pump is also overlooked. They are NLA, and you have to replace the whole pump housing.
New pumps are better, as they have a larger capacity. Reground races, and output shafts are available which saves considerably the cost of new. B&M Trick Shift (non synthetic) is the prefered fluid. The screws to the ball driver need to be evenly torqued and a bit of loctite added. Hospital room cleanliness is utmost important, as is care in painting to NOT get any overspray inside the case. Th labrynanth output seals wear a groove in the case which can be spedi-sleeved.

[WCP]

Jim, I'm well aware of the cost of parts having just acquired 2 rebuild kits. I agree with you that I prefer to do my own work, as I inspect and measure everything carefully before, during and after assembly. I suspect your comment re the input shaft really refers to the output shaft.
Bez, I agree that overspray inside a blower is a no-no. A couple years back, I disassembled an SN92 acquired from a "respected" rebuilder" to set up the drive load, and found considerable overspray inside. That added considerable time to the job, however the owner is quite happy with the unit's performance. The current SN60 MS blower that I'm rebuilding, had a failed rear race. I've never seen a race quite like this one, and suspect that the race was reground and may have suffered case hardening breakdown. I prefer to go with new parts, as the cost saving on ground races can't be justified for an owner that expects to get many years of service.
The ML blower in question gets a new set of springs, as the original set had one short spring.
Thanks for your comments. Bill

[WCP]

I had been collecting these parts to add supercharging to a Daytona, but opted to install air conditioning instead. I'm still missing the water manifold and crank pulley for a complete install. The idler pulley arm needs to be bored and a bronze bushing installed and the idler pulley bearing needs replacing. Also the tensioner is toast as it needs a shaft and one end piece is badly worn. The rebuilt carb is a 3588S. The casting nos. are s/c mount - 1557900, idler pulley - 1558493, idler arm - 1558665. The Paxton is ML705. I prefer to sell this as a package. PM me if interested - serious offers only.

[WCP]

An additional photo of the individual parts in this package.

[SN-60]

An additional photo of the individual parts in this package.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]20951[/ATTACH]

Nice collection of 'top mount' R2 parts.....but they tell Me the water manifold is the key!