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Dual MC conversion on '56 Sky Hawk

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  • Brakes: Dual MC conversion on '56 Sky Hawk

    Does anyone know the cost of parts and labor for this job?
    peter lee

  • #2
    If it is a simple switch from a single circuit to a dual with the same bolt pattern, it is very inexpensive, just the cost of the new MC which may be around $50 or so. I did it on serval of my old vehicles. First I looked up the diameter of the original cylinder, then looked for similar ones from a newer vehicle and went in and asked for a mc from a 65 scout (or whatever works).
    Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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    • #3
      Tom:
      Did you make the dual master cylinder conversion on a Studebaker with the master cylinder under the floor?
      Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
      '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
      '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
      '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by t walgamuth View Post
        If it is a simple switch from a single circuit to a dual with the same bolt pattern, it is very inexpensive, just the cost of the new MC which may be around $50 or so. I did it on serval of my old vehicles. First I looked up the diameter of the original cylinder, then looked for similar ones from a newer vehicle and went in and asked for a mc from a 65 scout (or whatever works).
        If the car has a firewall mounted master cylinder, this is usually the case. But the car in question has a under-the-floor master cylinder, and the m/c is bolted to the frame rail with thru bolts (perpendicular to the bore). Not as easy a job on one of these.
        Paul
        Winston-Salem, NC
        Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
        Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
        Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

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        • #5
          Explore Turner Brakes for premium Studebaker parts for cars and trucks. Discover our extensive selection of high-quality components designed to enhance your vehicle's performance and reliability.

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          • #6
            If you are going for Disc Brakes (front 2 or all 4). You will probably need a booster or one strong leg. You can use the existing MC and mount a remote Booster. Feed the booster with the single MC under the floor and come off the booster with a dual master cylinder.

            Rick

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            • #7
              Originally posted by RHerrmann View Post
              If you are going for Disc Brakes (front 2 or all 4). You will probably need a booster or one strong leg. You can use the existing MC and mount a remote Booster. Feed the booster with the single MC under the floor and come off the booster with a dual master cylinder.

              Rick
              How hard the pedal is depends on a few things, i.e. MC piston size, caliper piston size, rotor diameter, and pad surface area. I recently installed a set of front disc brakes on a GT and the brake pedal pressure required to stand the car on its nose is less than the clutch pedal pressure. (And it is not a HD clutch.)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by plee4139 View Post
                Does anyone know the cost of parts and labor for this job?
                Someone has already sent you the link to Turner Brake, so you know the price. For labor, figure 3-6 hours. Depending on what else comes up in the course of the job, i.e. dealing with severe corrosion, replacing lines, etc. Another variable would be whether the installer has ever installed one of those kits on a Stude. The first install involves a learning curve and takes longer.
                As for results, not much difference in pedal feel, or stop-ability. The safety factor is main benefit.

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                • #9
                  one other thing you might consider is remote reservoir style M/Cs. With one of those, you can seal up the hole in the floor where you now have to check/add fluid. Convenience more than functionality.
                  sigpic
                  JohnP, driving & reviving
                  60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr

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                  • #10
                    I made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by acolds View Post
                      I made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
                      That looks very functional, and is same principle as Turner's. That is also the same MC most everyone uses. I have not had good luck with rebuilt ones around here, which are around $30. Since swapping and bleeding them is such a PITA, I use new MCs from NAPA for a little less than $100.00.

                      Instead of cutting the floor pan, I check/add brake fluid from below. With the cap off, I use my fingers to check the level. To top off, I use a 2.5 oz syringe from FLAPS, with a 2-3" piece of rubber hose to connected to a 3/8" copper pipe, bent into a 'U' shape. The 'U' shaped copper pipe slips over the edge of the reservoir, and can also be used to remove some fluid in case of overfill.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by acolds View Post
                        I made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
                        this looks like a very top notch installation. Congrats and thanks for sharing.
                        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                          If the car has a firewall mounted master cylinder, this is usually the case. But the car in question has a under-the-floor master cylinder, and the m/c is bolted to the frame rail with thru bolts (perpendicular to the bore). Not as easy a job on one of these.
                          I had another car that I wanted to replace the mc on under the floor and found nothing close enough to work and I did not want to get into non original fabrication more than a simple bracket adjustment of bolt location or similar.
                          Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by acolds View Post
                            I made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
                            Is your car equipped with power brakes ? Reason I ask, the clevis in in the hole for PB, which sits the pedal much lower, and closer to the floor. If not equipped with PB, most cars need to use the other hole, for the taller pedal and longer stroke.

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                            • #15
                              The power brake pedal is different for power brakes. Mounts on different location all cars have standard mount one for power brakes is different . Mine has been changed to the manual pedal. See atttached pic for the standard verses the power brake pedal short one is for power brakes The manual states C & K models use the rear hole forward hole for W F D and Y models
                              Attached Files

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