Does anyone know the cost of parts and labor for this job?
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Dual MC conversion on '56 Sky Hawk
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If it is a simple switch from a single circuit to a dual with the same bolt pattern, it is very inexpensive, just the cost of the new MC which may be around $50 or so. I did it on serval of my old vehicles. First I looked up the diameter of the original cylinder, then looked for similar ones from a newer vehicle and went in and asked for a mc from a 65 scout (or whatever works).Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.
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Tom:
Did you make the dual master cylinder conversion on a Studebaker with the master cylinder under the floor?Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
'53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
'56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
'58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.
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Originally posted by t walgamuth View PostIf it is a simple switch from a single circuit to a dual with the same bolt pattern, it is very inexpensive, just the cost of the new MC which may be around $50 or so. I did it on serval of my old vehicles. First I looked up the diameter of the original cylinder, then looked for similar ones from a newer vehicle and went in and asked for a mc from a 65 scout (or whatever works).Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
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If you are going for Disc Brakes (front 2 or all 4). You will probably need a booster or one strong leg. You can use the existing MC and mount a remote Booster. Feed the booster with the single MC under the floor and come off the booster with a dual master cylinder.
Rick
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Originally posted by RHerrmann View PostIf you are going for Disc Brakes (front 2 or all 4). You will probably need a booster or one strong leg. You can use the existing MC and mount a remote Booster. Feed the booster with the single MC under the floor and come off the booster with a dual master cylinder.
Rick
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Originally posted by plee4139 View PostDoes anyone know the cost of parts and labor for this job?
As for results, not much difference in pedal feel, or stop-ability. The safety factor is main benefit.
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I made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
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Originally posted by acolds View PostI made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
Instead of cutting the floor pan, I check/add brake fluid from below. With the cap off, I use my fingers to check the level. To top off, I use a 2.5 oz syringe from FLAPS, with a 2-3" piece of rubber hose to connected to a 3/8" copper pipe, bent into a 'U' shape. The 'U' shaped copper pipe slips over the edge of the reservoir, and can also be used to remove some fluid in case of overfill.
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Originally posted by acolds View PostI made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.
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Originally posted by r1lark View PostIf the car has a firewall mounted master cylinder, this is usually the case. But the car in question has a under-the-floor master cylinder, and the m/c is bolted to the frame rail with thru bolts (perpendicular to the bore). Not as easy a job on one of these.Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.
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Originally posted by acolds View PostI made my own master cylinder bracket used a AMC master cylinder for car with drum brakes same size cylinder bore as Studebaker no need to worry about residua; valve Added a extra piece to brake pedal to have a straight line connection to master cylinder. Did open hole in floor but that only needed to check fluid not a big issue when system is working correctly.Only needed to get a couple of short brake lines to connect system .Also a clevis from McMaster Carr Total cost including master cylinder less than $ 50.
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The power brake pedal is different for power brakes. Mounts on different location all cars have standard mount one for power brakes is different . Mine has been changed to the manual pedal. See atttached pic for the standard verses the power brake pedal short one is for power brakes The manual states C & K models use the rear hole forward hole for W F D and Y models
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